What did you do with your 4th Gen this week?

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NETim

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Halfway through a brake job on the rig. Worked on the driver's side wheels today. The front brakes were still good, so I just cleaned them up and put a little grease on the slides.

The rear brakes needed to be replaced. They appear to be OEM issue. The pads were thin! Naturally getting the rotor off was a PITA. I ended up using a crowbar to break it loose. Hammering on it didn't break it loose.

The rear PB pad came off the backing during the process, so I had to run and get new PB pads. Replacing the PB pads is a REAL adventure.

I'll hit the passenger side tomorrow. Naturally the rear will get new pads. Unless there's a surprise waiting for me up front, all it will get is a cleaning and a lube.
 

NETim

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Halfway through a brake job on the rig. Worked on the driver's side wheels today. The front brakes were still good, so I just cleaned them up and put a little grease on the slides.

The rear brakes needed to be replaced. They appear to be OEM issue. The pads were thin! Naturally getting the rotor off was a PITA. I ended up using a crowbar to break it loose. Hammering on it didn't break it loose.

The rear PB pad came off the backing during the process, so I had to run and get new PB pads. Replacing the PB pads is a REAL adventure.

I'll hit the passenger side tomorrow. Naturally the rear will get new pads. Unless there's a surprise waiting for me up front, all it will get is a cleaning and a lube.
Day 2 update:

Gadzooks! MOPAR must use Elmer's Glue to bond the PB pads to the backers. I managed to get the passenger side rotor off using a crowbar again. I had the adjuster at minimum and whanged away on the rotor with a BFH in an attempt to break rotor free from the accumulated rust but no dice. Had to go the crowbar route again. After the rotor was on the floor, I began to wire brush the rust on the hub.

Blop. The rear pad fell off the backer. I didn't even touch it.

I thought maybe the rear pad came off yesterday on the driver's side with the rotor due to the use of the crowbar. But now I believe the pads just aren't adhered well to the backer. Maybe 92K miles has something to do with it. I dunno.

Back out to the garage. I was going to replace the PB pads regardless.
 

WY-Dave

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Couple of days ago, at work, when backing out of the parking spot I didn't realize the wheel was turned and I hit (side swiped with the front) a co-workers car. Sooo fender, headlight, headlight bracket and bumper. The damage on his was front & rear door.

Seeing maybe I can pay the difference for a bumper with foglight openings and put some pods in there. Also like to swap out to the black headlights.

externally don't look too bad. His mirror caught just right
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top and bottom h/l mounting tabs. Also the bracket that the adjuster sits in
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the pin that goes into the slip lick thingy
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WY-Dave

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Oh yeah. had to replace the turnsignal bulb and finally got around to changing the crankcase filter. Not too bad for the CTD
 

LeeD

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That sucks. I caught a chunk of wood that got kicked up and it took out my right headlight. RockAuto had a replacement for about $240. Not cheap but had to be much cheaper than OEM.
 

Black-Wolf

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Added (actually on Tues last week) GPCA Back Grip pros (red), and GPCA GP-Grip Lites (Red), to my seat backs and roll bars. Note: Because I have Greyman Tactical 15.25" x 25" RMP Molle panels, hard mounted to the headrest - the straps that come with the Grip Pros are not long enough - when you grab the grips, your knuckles press against the panels - not desirable. I went to Lowes Hardware and bought the thickest zip-ties I could find and mounted the grips to the panels direct as a temporary solution for now. If you don't have RMP panels in your rig, you'll be fine using the included straps. Other than that, routine maintenance today (oil, filter, cabin air filter) and tomorrow (tire rotation). The grips on the roll bars might seem pointless, but they actually do make it easier to grab there, and then use the leverage they provide to step up on the running board and rear tire.

Links to the companies: Greyman Tactical (https://greymantactical.com/products/vehicleriflerackrubberclamps1525x25rmp) - order the braces (1x/panel) and the hard mounts (you do NOT need the extenders for the hard mounts!) that attach the panel to your headrest if you're going to get these! ; and GPCA (https://gpca.com/) - I got the universals/UTV/Golf Cart Lite for the roll bars.

The both sets of GPCAs are the red grab handles in the pics - both on the back seat and the roll bars - below:

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ToddS1971

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What did I do to my 4th Gen this week? Tranny fluid change! And didn’t burn my hand filling it while it was running, but could feel the heat radiating off that pipe though. What a process it is. Jack the back end halfway to heaven, make sure temp doesn’t go over 122, park, reverse, neutral, drive, shift to 2nd, hold 2000 rpm 10 seconds, etc etc. Dang Germans . Bought it with 158k and don’t know if it was changed previously. Maybe it was maybe it wasn’t. What came out was jet black and the magnets were pretty nasty. Currently has 172k and was shifting and performing ok, but just want to try and make it last as long as possible. Went with the maxlife multi vehicle fluid and a Ransoto pan from Amazon. Had to use the old gasket as the new gasket that came with the pan was just a wee bit too tall and wouldn’t allow the pan back on. It almost would but I didn’t want to force it. Old gasket was fine. Not brittle and wasn’t leaking. Drove around 10-15 miles and all appears well. Shifts and acts about like it did before the change, and runs the same temp 183-188. 2-1 bump coming to a stop is still there, but it wasn’t harsh before and still isn’t.
 

natehate

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just spent a few hours laying under my truck realigning my rear bumper and then my dual exhaust tips as well
it appears my rear bumper i put on the passenger side mount was bent, it was sitting further out . i had to add some washers to space out the drivers side. which sucked because i liked how tight in the drivers side was.
 

WY-Dave

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I do part time Pilot for my Bro-in-laws house moving business. I bought one of them "cheap" $30 strobes. It can not be seen in the day time. I originally got it for nightime flat tire swapping, then started piloting. $65 Amazon find

3min Vid through 30ish presets on the wife's Mustang windshield. I'm too much a wimp to do it out side in the rain
LUMENIX Amber LED Rooftop Strobe Beacon Lights

Also part of the upgrade for piloting was to try to use some Amazon find hood brackets to use to mount and antenna. The platform is not high enough for room on the bottom for the connector. I don't even think that the Firestik ring would work. Not bad for $25

Pod Light Hood Bracket


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And if you do this, DON'T drop the nut between the fender and the fender liner. $8 @ Dodge, could not determine the size and thread so just went with Dodge parts. Now to save up for some Rigid Industries spot pods.

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rickjkline

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Grand Blanc, MI
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Popcorn 1972

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Watched my check fuel cap light come on 3weeks after I put an oem cap on that made the light turn off this was done in between my dash lights started dimming and brightening on there own. Geeeeeeeze
 

ILLXJ

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Drove it 4000 miles. Southern IL. to Moab, UT on I-70. South to the Grand Canyon. Then back to IL. along I-40. Just over 62000 miles now.
 

RamRod37

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Found A deal we could not turn down to repair and sell a 2004 ford f150 lariat 5.4 needs a timing set done and possible heads reworked not fully diagnosed it yet seller wanted 2,000 we offered 1,500 to see if he would take it and to our surprise he did drove a hour to get it. I like ford to just the ram got to pull the ford this time 3a9545a8d6fa9299b411e049c996cdbaa8e89db6.jpg 396714646_7245485428796131_308988520352984589_n.jpg20231031_164722.jpg396571620_7245488952129112_7712965701756531733_n.jpg
 
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