What to look for on a bad 65RFE valve body

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Burla

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You are not putting the 545 in your truck? Just pieces from it like springs and pistons?

Price check that plate, I actually see some even cheaper, use your google.
 
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TheEnder

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You are not putting the 545 in your truck? Just pieces from it like springs and pistons?

Price check that plate, I actually see some even cheaper, use your google.

Not putting it in due to differences in the 545RFE plate that doesn’t work on the 65RFE solenoid block. I have, they’re surprisingly cheap.


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Burla

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Just gauge the plates, those dnj look like gold standard. Make sure you aren't just replacing it with something thin, those dnj aren't ever gonna budge.
 
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TheEnder

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Just gauge the plates, those dnj look like gold standard. Make sure you aren't just replacing it with something thin, those dnj aren't ever gonna budge.

I learned more as of around 15 minutes ago, i have a 5 check ball design, and according to the eBay seller, i was supposed to get a 5 check ball Valve Body, but i didn’t. I was reading up on one of the articles you sent earlier in post history, but it didn’t come up with any conclusive evidence that a 5 check ball separator plate can be used in a 7 check ball VB. Can it be used?


Sent from Blue Onyx
 
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TheEnder

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Also said in the same article that IF YOURE UNSURE ABOUT WHAT VALVE BODY YOU NEED TO BUY TO BUY A 7 CHECK BALL VB WITH A WHITE SOLENOID PACK. I should’ve heard that.


Sent from Blue Onyx
 
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TheEnder

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I’m thinking the current vb in the truck is warped, and when i disconnect the battery (late at night) and let the trucks trans cool down that the vb is unwarping or getting more flat and promoting more of a seal and easier valve movement, which is why the line pressure sensor works for the first drive and stops the next. I have yet to receive a P0871 code though.

Edit: I thought about it more, i’m still unsure about a warped VB as the P0934 code comes on RIGHT after the engine is switched off and back on, and unless the 65RFE has cast a spell to summon a ice demon, i don’t think it’s possible to unwarp that quickly, but then again, it could be bleeding off somewhere, and losing prime.

Second edit: I completely forgot to add this, but the 6th to 5th downshift is perfect 100% of the time when there’s no throttle being applied, and it doesn’t do it around 50% of the time when there’s VERY light throttle applied. I also read this may be normal, as the torque converter is being slipped as the truck needs more power? This would also explain the “issue” the truck has at 25MPH as it does the EXACT same thing.

Sent from Blue Onyx
 
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TheEnder

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This is what the truck is doing from 6th to 5th:
I know, different transmissions all together, different makes, but it makes sense.


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Burla

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I learned more as of around 15 minutes ago, i have a 5 check ball design, and according to the eBay seller, i was supposed to get a 5 check ball Valve Body, but i didn’t. I was reading up on one of the articles you sent earlier in post history, but it didn’t come up with any conclusive evidence that a 5 check ball separator plate can be used in a 7 check ball VB. Can it be used?

I don't know, ask whoever you buy it from if you buy it, and only buy something labeled for your use. But if it were me, I'd just probably use the truck as is and feather it a bit when downshifting. I naturally feather it when going upshifts, always have. I learned from my F body days, throttle during shifts just kills those, I toasted a transmission 30k miles new and from that point on I always help the transmission to shift by using the gas medal. A little foot of gas when shifting is just gonna help that long term, a good habit.
 
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TheEnder

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I don't know, ask whoever you buy it from if you buy it, and only buy something labeled for your use. But if it were me, I'd just probably use the truck as is and feature it a bit when downshifting. I naturally feather it when going upshifts, always have. I learned from my F body days, throttle during shifts just kills those, I toasted a transmission 30k miles new and from that point on I always help the transmission to shift by using the gas medal. A little foot of gas when shifting is just gonna help that long term, a good habit.

This is what i’m thinking about doing from now on. There’s no metal in the pan, so in my head. no worries right? It shifts beautifully aside from these “issues”, so i’m just gonna leave it be.


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RedSRT4Me

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I’m thinking the current vb in the truck is warped, and when i disconnect the battery (late at night) and let the trucks trans cool down that the vb is unwarping or getting more flat and promoting more of a seal and easier valve movement, which is why the line pressure sensor works for the first drive and stops the next. I have yet to receive a P0871 code though.

Edit: I thought about it more, i’m still unsure about a warped VB as the P0934 code comes on RIGHT after the engine is switched off and back on, and unless the 65RFE has cast a spell to summon a ice demon, i don’t think it’s possible to unwarp that quickly, but then again, it could be bleeding off somewhere, and losing prime.

Second edit: I completely forgot to add this, but the 6th to 5th downshift is perfect 100% of the time when there’s no throttle being applied, and it doesn’t do it around 50% of the time when there’s VERY light throttle applied. I also read this may be normal, as the torque converter is being slipped as the truck needs more power? This would also explain the “issue” the truck has at 25MPH as it does the EXACT same thing.

Sent from Blue Onyx

The VB in the truck is the one with the missing screws? If you didn't fix this you definitely have an internal leak
 
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TheEnder

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The VB in the truck is the one with the missing screws? If you didn't fix this you definitely have an internal leak

It’s missing a mounting screw. It broke off. The screws inside the VB are all installed fine.


Sent from Blue Onyx
 
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TheEnder

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Well i have some interesting things that happened again (this is getting repetitive, i’m aware.)

Trucks trans temp in park at Starbucks today started to rise like how it usually does, i was expecting it to start matching engine temp, but then it dropped by 10-20 degrees and stayed there.

I took it on the road, the shifting also improved drastically, with the 6-5 issue being completely (as of current knowledge) gone.

Interesting.


Sent from Blue Onyx
 

Hemi395

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Well i have some interesting things that happened again (this is getting repetitive, i’m aware.)

Trucks trans temp in park at Starbucks today started to rise like how it usually does, i was expecting it to start matching engine temp, but then it dropped by 10-20 degrees and stayed there.

I took it on the road, the shifting also improved drastically, with the 6-5 issue being completely (as of current knowledge) gone.

Interesting.


Sent from Blue Onyx
What were the temps when you were idling? Mine will creep up into the 150s at idle in park and won't go down until I start driving it again. Odd that it shot down like that by itself.....
 
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TheEnder

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What were the temps when you were idling? Mine will creep up into the 150s at idle in park and won't go down until I start driving it again. Odd that it shot down like that by itself.....

It goes up from 170 to 190, but as soon as it stayed at 190 for around 5 secs it shot straight down to 165 and stayed there.


Sent from Blue Onyx
 
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TheEnder

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Forgot to add, it did this in Park too.


Sent from Blue Onyx
 
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TheEnder

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That really sounds like a sticking TBV.......

That’s what i was thinking, and maybe the shifts got better because it was restricting line pressure. I’m gonna replace it.


Sent from Blue Onyx
 
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TheEnder

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*****!!! Today i came to a stop in the truck and it jolted with a LOUD bang, i got scared, pulled over, and forgot i had 3 big containers of bleach in the back. Whew.


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Hemi395

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*****!!! Today i came to a stop in the truck and it jolted with a LOUD bang, i got scared, pulled over, and forgot i had 3 big containers of bleach in the back. Whew.


Sent from iPhone XS Max
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