What to look for on a bad 65RFE valve body

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TheEnder

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Maybe a lil, but increased line pressure and updated VB would be ideal. With so many miles on your unit, hard to say where the good money is, maybe ride it til it dies as is.

Wondering as at work there was a 2015 RAM that got into an accident that completely destroyed the front end, but the engine/trans is good and it has the 8 speed, so i was considering asking the guy that has it sitting there how much he’d take for it and i could swap over the engine if my 4.7L gives me any trouble in the future, and i can save the 8 speed until the guy at that german engineering place can get a plug and play kit ready for the 6 to 8 conversion.

edit: the truck that’s destroyed has a 5.7L.

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TheEnder

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Okay so, truck is still making the 2nd to 4th click, and something told me to check the suspension as it doesn’t sound like it’s coming from where the trans is, it sounds like it’s coming from the engine bay or around there.

Back in April, i had a very bad accident, truck jumped a curb and fell into a ditch and put around 5-6 tons of force on the passenger front tire. Didn’t think anything of it, but that’s where the sound is coming from. I was also met with this:

Tapatalk won’t let me send the pic, but on my tire half of it is COMPLETELY bald, meanwhile the other half has around 30% tread life left.

This also explains why my steering wheel is cocked to the left, drives straight when you manually drive it straight but the new straight is slightly to the left if you catch what i’m saying.

I was going to get it lowered SLIGHTLY because i love the look of a lower truck, but that’s just so y’all know, that clicking was a SUSPENSION issue.


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TheEnder

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Just one last question for @Burla or @Hemi395, I disconnected the battery last night after correcting the fluid level to see if it’d make a difference, and it did, the shifts are perfect without the line pressure booster on now. I was just wondering, is it normal to get occasional slow 2-4 shifts? I assume this is the trans learning the CVI again and learning adaptives, etc. It doesn’t happen all the time, and i also assume this will even itself out, as time goes on and it learns everything.


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Burla

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I don't know, sorry bud. What do you mean 2-4 shifts?
 
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I don't know, sorry bud.

I looked around. That’s what it’s doing. There’s also reports of some hard shifts, which is also what it’s doing occasionally. Thanks for all your help!


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Hemi395

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Just one last question for @Burla or @Hemi395, I disconnected the battery last night after correcting the fluid level to see if it’d make a difference, and it did, the shifts are perfect without the line pressure booster on now. I was just wondering, is it normal to get occasional slow 2-4 shifts? I assume this is the trans learning the CVI again and learning adaptives, etc. It doesn’t happen all the time, and i also assume this will even itself out, as time goes on and it learns everything.


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I believe that is the case. The trans looses it's adaptive memory when the battery is disconnected so it has to relearn shift points, shift feel, etc based on the driver input.

Also you replaced the SP and had the connector disconnected so I'm assuming it's also trying to relearn how hard to compress the clutches for each gear. If you can get a quicklearn done it will speed up that process immensely. I've never heard of a QL needing to be done after a battery disconnect tho....

My guess is it's still relearning just about everything since it was completely disconnected. I would give it a good 5-700 miles with a mix of city and highway driving. Do some soft accelerations and some hard accelerations. That will give the PCM a good variety of shifts to learn from.
 
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I believe that is the case. The trans looses it's adaptive memory when the battery is disconnected so it has to relearn shift points, shift feel, etc based on the driver input.

Also you replaced the SP and had the connector disconnected so I'm assuming it's also trying to relearn how hard to compress the clutches for each gear. If you can get a quicklearn done it will speed up that process immensely. I've never heard of a QL needing to be done after a battery disconnect tho....

My guess is it's still relearning just about everything since it was completely disconnected. I would give it a good 5-700 miles with a mix of city and highway driving. Do some soft accelerations and some hard accelerations. That will give the PCM a good variety of shifts to learn from.

Perfect response! Thank you so much. I’m considering taking it down to get a relearn done, along with a oil change (i know, i don’t have the time to do it myself)


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I don't know, sorry bud. What do you mean 2-4 shifts?

I got a P0868 flooring it onto the highway, so i said **** it. I’m gonna get this ***** up to fully operational order with a new VB and the other new SP the other seller sent me.

Turns out, the old VB that didn’t work IS a 5 check ball VB, with a 7 check ball plate. (stupid, i know.) Which caused it not to be functional with the grey SP. So i’m gonna swap over the 5 check ball VB plate from my other VB.

Already checked, new VB is straight, flat, and perfect. I installed the new sonnax accumulators and the thicker plate on it already too.


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Looks like o’reillys gave me a bad flat sump filter, it split open, and the top bit of plastic (that goes into the sump seal) broke half way through. I stopped working on the truck as it got way too hot outside but hey, atleast i know to buy mopar from now on!


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Looks like o’reillys gave me a bad flat sump filter, it split open, and the top bit of plastic (that goes into the sump seal) broke half way through. I stopped working on the truck as it got way too hot outside but hey, atleast i know to buy mopar from now on!


Sent from Blue Onyx
Wow... Yeah that would pop a low fluid pressure code for sure[emoji15]
 
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This morning was not a good morning. I got all the stuff for the truck, i checked the valve body (old one) for warpage and there was 0. I also checked for the check balls beating the plate too hard causing it to bend or get stuck, like with the GM 4L60E. Nope, none of that.

Valve body (knock on wood) was absolutely perfect, nothing wrong with it at all, there wasn’t even any PISTON SCUFFING ON THE ACCUMULATOR WALLS.

I get the truck all put back together, put around 8-9 quarts of fluid in to fill up the solenoids and the vb.

Then, i go into my garage, and what do i see? ALL 5 CHECK BALLS SITTING ON MY WORKSTATION.

I siphoned the fluid out as the truck wasn’t even started for the first time yet, but lord jesus that was ever loving hell.


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sorry to hear that one man, rough deal for sure.
 

Hemi395

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This morning was not a good morning. I got all the stuff for the truck, i checked the valve body (old one) for warpage and there was 0. I also checked for the check balls beating the plate too hard causing it to bend or get stuck, like with the GM 4L60E. Nope, none of that.

Valve body (knock on wood) was absolutely perfect, nothing wrong with it at all, there wasn’t even any PISTON SCUFFING ON THE ACCUMULATOR WALLS.

I get the truck all put back together, put around 8-9 quarts of fluid in to fill up the solenoids and the vb.

Then, i go into my garage, and what do i see? ALL 5 CHECK BALLS SITTING ON MY WORKSTATION.

I siphoned the fluid out as the truck wasn’t even started for the first time yet, but lord jesus that was ever loving hell.


Sent from Blue Onyx
Oh man that sucks!! At least you caught it before driving it tho....

That's totally something I would forget to put back in too[emoji23]
 
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Oh man that sucks!! At least you caught it before driving it tho....

That's totally something I would forget to put back in too[emoji23]

Hahaha yeah it was hilarious!


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So its all back together now? No more low fluid pressure codes?

Shes all back together, and it’s unbelievable how well shes driving. No more constant harsh shifting, (there’s the occasional hard shift every automatic has) No more studder between shifts and she accelerates from a dead stop absolutely beautifully. I need to recharge the A/C system as it’s causing some engine hesitation, but that’s about it. She’s flawless.


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So its all back together now? No more low fluid pressure codes?

I might type up an extremely long thread about common RFE issues and not so common RFE issues for the people who need help with them, and can’t take them to a mechanic.


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