What to look for on a bad 65RFE valve body

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TheEnder

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I’ve been watching a guy on yt as of recent, he’s building his 65RFE and i was watching his earlier videos before he did anything to see how it drove; and little did i know, his did everything mine does currently. I think psychologically i’ve been comparing everything to the 8SP in my 300, and when something is different (bc very different transmissions, different applications) i run to think something is broken, when in reality, it’s working perfectly fine.


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RedSRT4Me

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I’ve been watching a guy on yt as of recent, he’s building his 65RFE and i was watching his earlier videos before he did anything to see how it drove; and little did i know, his did everything mine does currently. I think psychologically i’ve been comparing everything to the 8SP in my 300, and when something is different (bc very different transmissions, different applications) i run to think something is broken, when in reality, it’s working perfectly fine.


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I know exactly what you mean. I'm constantly chasing a new noise or vibration that may just be in my head most of the time. I try to resist but sometimes idle hands gets the best of me and out come the wrenches and the wallet. :D
 
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TheEnder

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I know exactly what you mean. I'm constantly chasing a new noise or vibration that may just be in my head most of the time. I try to resist but sometimes idle hands gets the best of me and out come the wrenches and the wallet. :D

Exactly what happens to me :)


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This is the last post i’ll be making on this thread, as my truck is acting normal again. But to sum it up for people who may have been experiencing one or more issues that i have, here you go:

1. 7 Check Ball Valve Bodies DO NOT WORK with a grey solenoid pack, only with a WHITE solenoid pack, which you can install in your truck if you bought a 7 check ball VB instead of a 5 check ball VB by accident.

2. There are differences between a 545RFE Line Pressure Sensor and a 65RFE Line Pressure Sensor, And if you install a 545RFE line pressure sensor you’ll be stuck with a constant “P0934: Transmission Pressure Sensor Circuit Low” fault code.

3. You can tell the difference from a 7 check ball VB and a 5 check ball VB with these 2 images (listed below)

4716c315924c866db286db10b32f793d.jpg


5 check ball plate, (2009 and up). Notice vent hole above “A” in the plate, and the other differences, of course.

4122d52bcb6b99136c3d76687bdb0b4c.jpg


This is a 7 Check Ball VB, notice no hole at “A”, no hole at B; and at hole C, there’s a large rectangle hole.

035f451aa4dbddbd2419e8ced67e5f28.jpg


Bad image, but these are the locations of the check balls in a 7 check ball VB. bcac47983aceabef229c832fcedda9e7.jpg

Check ball locations in a 5 check ball VB

Lastly, MAKE SURE TO CHANGE YOUR TRP (TRANSMISSION RANGE PLATE) WHEN YOU CHANGE YOUR VALVE BODY!


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Hemi395

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This is the last post i’ll be making on this thread, as my truck is acting normal again. But to sum it up for people who may have been experiencing one or more issues that i have, here you go:

1. 7 Check Ball Valve Bodies DO NOT WORK with a grey solenoid pack, only with a WHITE solenoid pack, which you can install in your truck if you bought a 7 check ball VB instead of a 5 check ball VB by accident.

2. There are differences between a 545RFE Line Pressure Sensor and a 65RFE Line Pressure Sensor, And if you install a 545RFE line pressure sensor you’ll be stuck with a constant “P0934: Transmission Pressure Sensor Circuit Low” fault code.

3. You can tell the difference from a 7 check ball VB and a 5 check ball VB with these 2 images (listed below)

4716c315924c866db286db10b32f793d.jpg


5 check ball plate, (2009 and up). Notice vent hole above “A” in the plate, and the other differences, of course.

4122d52bcb6b99136c3d76687bdb0b4c.jpg


This is a 7 Check Ball VB, notice no hole at “A”, no hole at B; and at hole C, there’s a large rectangle hole.

035f451aa4dbddbd2419e8ced67e5f28.jpg


Bad image, but these are the locations of the check balls in a 7 check ball VB. bcac47983aceabef229c832fcedda9e7.jpg

Check ball locations in a 5 check ball VB

Lastly, MAKE SURE TO CHANGE YOUR TRP (TRANSMISSION RANGE PLATE) WHEN YOU CHANGE YOUR VALVE BODY!


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Wow GREAT info!!!
 

Hemi395

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If you haven't in this thread, can you post the mileage on the trans and your maintenance schedule? I think that's good info too considering how long your 65 has lasted[emoji106]
 
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If you haven't in this thread, can you post the mileage on the trans and your maintenance schedule? I think that's good info too considering how long your 65 has lasted[emoji106]

Yeah, here it is:

2013 RAM 1500
65RFE / 4.7L
As of right now, 485K

Maintenance schedule consists of 20-30K trans fluid changes, 3K oil changes and coolant flushes every 70-80K, and rear diff oil changes of every 50K. Air filter changes every 10K, currently using a K&N intake filter.


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There’s no TBV in the truck, which is strange, bc it’s acting like there’s a thermostat that’s sticking. Also, would anyone like to answer the question of which braindead chrysler engineer thought it’d be a good idea to put the trans lines into the air condenser? I’m thinking the air condenser is my issue, it’s coated in bugs and the A/C system itself needs to be recharged in the worst way possible.


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Also, i’m thinking it may be the aux e-fan, as i can barely hear it when it’s on, and the engine climbs in temp along with the trans, and the fact the A/C blows out kinda cold when sitting at idle.


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Hemi395

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There’s no TBV in the truck, which is strange, bc it’s acting like there’s a thermostat that’s sticking. Also, would anyone like to answer the question of which braindead chrysler engineer thought it’d be a good idea to put the trans lines into the air condenser? I’m thinking the air condenser is my issue, it’s coated in bugs and the A/C system itself needs to be recharged in the worst way possible.


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I have no idea but I'm sure it was to cut costs somehow.

I recently reverse flushed my radiator/condenser/trans cooler from the engine bay out. I waited until it was cold, removed the fan and sprayed it with a garden hose. The amount of dirt and bugs that came out the front of the radiator was insane. Might want to give that a try....
 
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I have no idea but I'm sure it was to cut costs somehow.

I recently reverse flushed my radiator/condenser/trans cooler from the engine bay out. I waited until it was cold, removed the fan and sprayed it with a garden hose. The amount of dirt and bugs that came out the front of the radiator was insane. Might want to give that a try....

Yeah, i’m going to in a few days, it’s gonna drop into the 80s soon and i’m planning on doing some work to it anyways. It gives me an excuse to buy a tuner + 2012 V6 cooling fan.


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Hemi395

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Also, i’m thinking it may be the aux e-fan, as i can barely hear it when it’s on, and the engine climbs in temp along with the trans, and the fact the A/C blows out kinda cold when sitting at idle.


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The v6 efan is a damn good upgrade. I put my clutch fan/AC fan back on a few weeks ago and my trans temps were actually cooler with the v6 fan. So back on it went.

Also the without a tuner the v6 fan will run pretty much constantly if the AC is on. So a tuner is a good idea but not critical to have when installing the v6 fan.
 
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The v6 efan is a damn good upgrade. I put my clutch fan/AC fan back on a few weeks ago and my trans temps were actually cooler with the v6 fan. So back on it went.

Also the without a tuner the v6 fan will run pretty much constantly if the AC is on. So a tuner is a good idea but not critical to have when installing the v6 fan.

Luckily it’s summer so there isn’t gonna be a time when the AC fan isn’t running.


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Luckily it’s summer so there isn’t gonna be a time when the AC fan isn’t running.


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Exactly, it's going to keep it at the normal operating temp as long as you run the AC which you lost likely will be doing this time of year. In the winter however it's not going to kick on until 220* or so. Then you will need a tuner...

Are you looking to get a custom tune or just tweak some settings? I'd go with HPTuners if you're just tweaking settings...
 
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Exactly, it's going to keep it at the normal operating temp as long as you run the AC which you lost likely will be doing this time of year. In the winter however it's not going to kick on until 220* or so. Then you will need a tuner...

Are you looking to get a custom tune or just tweak some settings? I'd go with HPTuners if you're just tweaking settings...

Just tweaking things, not a full blown tune as i like having a fully functional 65RFE. Thank you for telling me!


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The valve body to case screws i ordered on 7/15 just came in, over a month later. I forgot i ordered them.


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@Burla Just a quick question, the truck is running great, i have the LPB installed and there’s no issues. But i was just wondering, since the booster is installed, is there less of a risk of the overdrive clutches burning up from flooring it? Even slightly?


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Maybe a lil, but increased line pressure and updated VB would be ideal. With so many miles on your unit, hard to say where the good money is, maybe ride it til it dies as is.
 
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