What to look for on a bad 65RFE valve body

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Hemi395

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I might type up an extremely long thread about common RFE issues and not so common RFE issues for the people who need help with them, and can’t take them to a mechanic.


Sent from Blue Onyx
That's a great idea! I think you've had more experience with the RFE trans than a lot of people on here[emoji106]
 

Hemi395

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Shes all back together, and it’s unbelievable how well shes driving. No more constant harsh shifting, (there’s the occasional hard shift every automatic has) No more studder between shifts and she accelerates from a dead stop absolutely beautifully. I need to recharge the A/C system as it’s causing some engine hesitation, but that’s about it. She’s flawless.


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Awesome!!
 
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TheEnder

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That's a great idea! I think you've had more experience with the RFE trans than a lot of people on here[emoji106]

I think so too, i’ve been literally fist deep in mine. I’m gonna do it.


Sent from Blue Onyx
 

Burla

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There aint a freaking guy around that does dyi weekend warrior stuff w/o a mechanics degree that doesn't do stupid ****. My last dummy move, taking a hammer to my wife's rotor to remove it because I thought it was stuck, forgetting I had the freaking ebrake on. It is just part of it. Slow down to speed up every dyi job, the more you think about it likely the better the outcome. Rush stuff it will happen every time.

Glad it is running good.
 

Hemi395

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There aint a freaking guy around that does dyi weekend warrior stuff w/o a mechanics degree that doesn't do stupid ****. My last dummy move, taking a hammer to my wife's rotor to remove it because I thought it was stuck, forgetting I had the freaking ebrake on. It is just part of it. Slow down to speed up every dyi job, the more you think about it likely the better the outcome. Rush stuff it will happen every time.
^this 100%[emoji106]
 
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TheEnder

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There aint a freaking guy around that does dyi weekend warrior stuff w/o a mechanics degree that doesn't do stupid ****. My last dummy move, taking a hammer to my wife's rotor to remove it because I thought it was stuck, forgetting I had the freaking ebrake on. It is just part of it. Slow down to speed up every dyi job, the more you think about it likely the better the outcome. Rush stuff it will happen every time.

Glad it is running good.

I completely agree with you. Everyone does dumb stuff, just gotta realize your mistake and move on with them, and remember to never do them again. And i am too!


Sent from Blue Onyx
 
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TheEnder

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Truck is beautiful, just asking a question because it’s bothering me.

When i removed the valve body, i tried to get the snapped screw out but the remainder of the screw that’s sticking out is way too small to get a pair of vise grips around, and when i could, they instantly fell right off, and i couldn’t get a grip on them.

I’m going to wait until the next time i do the fluid (10-15K miles) to see if i can get it off, but it’s bothering me as i think the VB is gonna shred the other 5 screws (those are brand new, and torqued down to factory spec).

I know it’s not gonna shred the other 5 screws and the solenoid pack gasket is strong enough to hold the entire VB in the trans without issue, but still. is it okay to have that one screw broken off maybe for the rest of the transmissions life?


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crackerjack1957

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Truck is beautiful, just asking a question because it’s bothering me.

When i removed the valve body, i tried to get the snapped screw out but the remainder of the screw that’s sticking out is way too small to get a pair of vise grips around, and when i could, they instantly fell right off, and i couldn’t get a grip on them.

I’m going to wait until the next time i do the fluid (10-15K miles) to see if i can get it off, but it’s bothering me as i think the VB is gonna shred the other 5 screws (those are brand new, and torqued down to factory spec).

I know it’s not gonna shred the other 5 screws and the solenoid pack gasket is strong enough to hold the entire VB in the trans without issue, but still. is it okay to have that one screw broken off maybe for the rest of the transmissions life?


Sent from Blue Onyx
A left hand drill might spin it out for you.
http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/metalworking/left-hand-drill
 
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TheEnder

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Fan is replaced, all is well. I’m starting to think there’s something wrong with the trans temp sensor (on 2 solenoid packs mind you) that makes it read 20°F over. Last night after a full day of sitting in 55°F weather the EVIC said the trans fluid was at 89F after not even being started for 4 seconds.


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Burla

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Most of those sensors have a low starting temp where it wont read any lower then a certain number, I'm not 100 that is what is going on whether it is set on evic to show a low of 89 or what, but I wouldn't worry about that. Check it everyday for a week, if it says 89 everyday, that is what is going on. Check it at different times of day as well, first in the morning and at night.
 
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TheEnder

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TheEnder

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I got furious early yesterday with the shift flares that are getting worse by the day, and i dumped the rest of the 1 qt of trans fluid i had left into it as i’m not worried about overfilling as i have a new trans on the way. Trans actually shifted....better? I checked before and it was at a good level, but i checked it at a very very very very slight incline towards the dipstick side of the trans. I didn’t know they were THIS sensitive to fluid level.


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TheEnder

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Most of those sensors have a low starting temp where it wont read any lower then a certain number, I'm not 100 that is what is going on whether it is set on evic to show a low of 89 or what, but I wouldn't worry about that. Check it everyday for a week, if it says 89 everyday, that is what is going on. Check it at different times of day as well, first in the morning and at night.

Found the cause of all my issues with OD/Direct Drive (4th). Tapatalk won’t let me send pics.

The clutches were toast.


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Burla

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Found the cause of all my issues with OD/Direct Drive (4th). Tapatalk won’t let me send pics.

The clutches were toast.

So you will rebuild it, and then go back and put new VB in?
 
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TheEnder

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So you will rebuild it, and then go back and put new VB in?

I’m dropping in an entirely new remanufactured 65RFE, fitted with a remanufactured main pump, with new line bore bushings to prevent leaks, increase fluid flow & durability and to get rid of the issues originally with the stock pump.

Completely remanufactured valve body (billet) with complete system correction & recalibration kit, which improved pressure control & shift quality.

Remanufactured & improved torque converter tested for leaks, torque converter rattle, torque converter shudder (at HOT and LO temps), tested for concentricity & balance

All new bushings installed in key locations to provide no leaks and to improve internal fluid flow control & fluid pressures

Complete system correction & recalibration kit installed to address several OE flaws

Modifications include:

Update to servos
PR System
Heavy Duty Accumulators with Heavy Duty Accumulator Spring Plate

Heavy duty recalibration kit installed to decrease all slipping within transmission and to increase durability, lastly tested in HOT & LO temperatures to ensure proper transmission function using C.A.R.S


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Hemi395

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Found the cause of all my issues with OD/Direct Drive (4th). Tapatalk won’t let me send pics.

The clutches were toast.


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The 4th gear clutches? Interesting, usually its the OD (5th and 6th gear) clutches that get fried.

Still after almost 500k thats pretty good...

Where did you get the built transmission??
 
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TheEnder

TheEnder

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The 4th gear clutches? Interesting, usually its the OD (5th and 6th gear) clutches that get fried.

Still after almost 500k thats pretty good...

Where did you get the built transmission??

Its been slipping the torque converter in 4th for a very long time, with very limited acceleration when in 4th and this occurred.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153824382160

This is the link to the trans, 1840$ all said and done, shipped with UPS Freight.


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