What weight trailer can I tow.....confused

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mreservices

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Sorry but I am a newbie at towing. Purchased a 2016 Ram Laramie 4wd 5.7 Hemi and 3.21 gears. When I purchased it I had no intent in pulling anything other than a small bass boat. Now I am thinking about a travel trailer. I know it has to be a light one based on my configuration. Per the ram website, my specs are Max Payload 1061.58 lbs and Max Towing 7961.58 lbs. What realistic weight should I look at with a travel trailer? Mine did not come with the integrated brake controller however I plan on adding that. I know there are variables but I'm just looking for a starting point. I appreciate your assistance.
 

HDGoose

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Ignore the websites...for the RAM guides and the trailer weights. Look on your door jam for the payload capacity of y-o-u-r truck. Subtract cargo in truck, passengers (150 driver and full fuel already in calculations from RAM) and see what you have remaining.

Most trailers list "Unloaded Vehicle Weight", add the "cargo carrying capacity" or look at the max trailer weight. Then plan on 10-12% of the max weight to be your tongue weight. A weight distribution hitch will weigh 50-80 pounds, and needs to be accounted for.

Does that tongue weight fit in the remaining payload of your truck?

Some people disregard the payload, and go my axle capacities (on the stickers on the door jam).

I dislike being above 80% of my trucks ratings. Once I started pulling routinely, I bought a RAM 2500. Once we found out about weights, capacities, and how much we like our toyhauler, I bought a 2020 RAM 3500 dually for my next camper.

And....what tires do you have on your truck now? Are they rated for your axle capacities?
 

Quyonmob

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7EA34A7A-70DF-4A29-9E22-18C0F9D31B28.jpeg Yikes. 1061lbs is low... 4 guys a cooler of food and a cooler of pints and you are at max load.

I have nearly 600lbs more than that.

10-15% (12-13% is ideal) of your trailer weight needs to be tongue weight, and tongue weight is part of payload.
 
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392DevilDog

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I see you used the VIN calculator and got an accurate number.

Now. You see how light your payload is. This means you have a heavy truck.

As stated the payload is a defining number...but can be Did get if you stay under gross axle weigjt ratings. They will be 3900 front and rear.

Now. That max tow number. It is found with a cargo of 300lbs. 90 lbs for hitch and a 10% tongue weight.

So. If you weight say 200lbs...you can take a passenger of 100lbs...or some cargo of 100lbs.

A travel trailer should have a tongue weight of 12 to 14%...much more than the 10% weight.

See how that number came down already.

We have like 4 threads doing this same exact thing. Read them. Pay attention to the two types of posts. Some just take off and haul. Some crunch numbers and tow at a reasonable speed.

Although you will find some who disagree...a Laramie 1500 is gonna need a smaller trailer than one hoped. And there is a reason they make 1500 2500 and 3500 trucks.

Good luck. You will want to keep length down as well....depending on how you load your truck and trailer...look in the 6000 GVWR and 26 to 28 foot range.
 

NH RAM

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I would look at trailers with a GVWR of 7,000 or less as an absolute max. I had a Big Horn with 3.21 gears and it towed a Coleman Light 2855BH, about 5,900# dry, 733# hitch weight, GVWR 7,600#. I would be maxed out when loaded at about 7500#. For me, I didn't enjoy towing that trailer as it is over 31' including the tongue; it's a lot to handle if the wind picks up and / or the road gets bumpy. I added airbags and used a BLue Ox Swaypro. When fully loaded, I was over my rear axle rating by a few hundred pounds, so I now have a 2500. Do not push the limits, the 5.7 was a nice engine, but it needed to rev quite a bit to handle the weight.
 

NH RAM

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Good luck. You will want to keep length down as well....depending on how you load your truck and trailer...look in the 6000 GVWR and 26 to 28 foot range.

Great advice. I had a 2016 Forest River 230BHXL as a first camper and it towed really well. It was 26' long, 4,900# dry and was a breeze to tow over Wolf Creek Pass in Colorado with the 1500. I would NOT have done it with my Coleman and the 1500 truck. Size does matter, not just weight!
 
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Ignore the websites...for the RAM guides and the trailer weights. Look on your door jam for the payload capacity of y-o-u-r truck. Subtract cargo in truck, passengers (150 driver and full fuel already in calculations from RAM) and see what you have remaining.

Most trailers list "Unloaded Vehicle Weight", add the "cargo carrying capacity" or look at the max trailer weight. Then plan on 10-12% of the max weight to be your tongue weight. A weight distribution hitch will weigh 50-80 pounds, and needs to be accounted for.

Does that tongue weight fit in the remaining payload of your truck?

Some people disregard the payload, and go my axle capacities (on the stickers on the door jam).

I dislike being above 80% of my trucks ratings. Once I started pulling routinely, I bought a RAM 2500. Once we found out about weights, capacities, and how much we like our toyhauler, I bought a 2020 RAM 3500 dually for my next camper.

And....what tires do you have on your truck now? Are they rated for your axle capacities?

Thank you so much for this information. Very helpful. It's amazing how quickly the numbers add up. I actually went to the ram site and put in my Vin number to get my exact specs. As for my tires, I don't know. Something else I'll have to check in to. Put on the Falcon Wildpeak AT3W. Again, never thought about pulling anything other than a bass boat. In hindsight, something I probly should've thought about previously.
 
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mreservices

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View attachment 217519 Yikes. 1061lbs is low... 4 guys a cooler of food and a cooler of pints and you are at max load.

I have nearly 600lbs more than that.

10-15% (12-13% is ideal) of your trailer weight needs to be tongue weight, and tongue weight is part of payload.

I verified everything with my Vin number on the ram website but I'll double check the sticker. I guess the Laramie added quite a few options and weight.
 

Quyonmob

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I verified everything with my Vin number on the ram website but I'll double check the sticker. I guess the Laramie added quite a few options and weight.

I believe it, it’s just unfortunately low.
 
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mreservices

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I see you used the VIN calculator and got an accurate number.

Now. You see how light your payload is. This means you have a heavy truck.

As stated the payload is a defining number...but can be Did get if you stay under gross axle weigjt ratings. They will be 3900 front and rear.

Now. That max tow number. It is found with a cargo of 300lbs. 90 lbs for hitch and a 10% tongue weight.

So. If you weight say 200lbs...you can take a passenger of 100lbs...or some cargo of 100lbs.

A travel trailer should have a tongue weight of 12 to 14%...much more than the 10% weight.

See how that number came down already.

We have like 4 threads doing this same exact thing. Read them. Pay attention to the two types of posts. Some just take off and haul. Some crunch numbers and tow at a reasonable speed.

Although you will find some who disagree...a Laramie 1500 is gonna need a smaller trailer than one hoped. And there is a reason they make 1500 2500 and 3500 trucks.

Good luck. You will want to keep length down as well....depending on how you load your truck and trailer...look in the 6000 GVWR and 26 to 28 foot range.

Outstanding information. Thank you very much. I'm more of a crunch the numbers and drive at reasonable speeds can a guy. Just want to ensure that everything is safe for us and everyone around. I will definitely try to figure my numbers out. Was watching a few YouTube videos and people were saying under 6000 pounds for a 1/2 ton. Was thinking more along the lines of a 5000 to 5500 and no longer than 26'. But math will confirm.
 
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mreservices

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I would look at trailers with a GVWR of 7,000 or less as an absolute max. I had a Big Horn with 3.21 gears and it towed a Coleman Light 2855BH, about 5,900# dry, 733# hitch weight, GVWR 7,600#. I would be maxed out when loaded at about 7500#. For me, I didn't enjoy towing that trailer as it is over 31' including the tongue; it's a lot to handle if the wind picks up and / or the road gets bumpy. I added airbags and used a BLue Ox Swaypro. When fully loaded, I was over my rear axle rating by a few hundred pounds, so I now have a 2500. Do not push the limits, the 5.7 was a nice engine, but it needed to rev quite a bit to handle the weight.

Thank you for the information. Definitely thinking about a smaller trailer for this truck. I did do a level on the truck when I changed over to Bilstein shocks. Because of that I'm thinking I will add some airbags to assist. We are thinking of starting with a rental trailer to see how we like it. If we buy one I will probably add the sway kit to help as well.
 

392DevilDog

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Outstanding information. Thank you very much. I'm more of a crunch the numbers and drive at reasonable speeds can a guy. Just want to ensure that everything is safe for us and everyone around. I will definitely try to figure my numbers out. Was watching a few YouTube videos and people were saying under 6000 pounds for a 1/2 ton. Was thinking more along the lines of a 5000 to 5500 and no longer than 26'. But math will confirm.
You will be very happy with 5500 and under 26 foot

Not sure where you live or plan to camp, but 26 foot will make getting a spot alot easier. And it will also allow you to get away from the crowds.

That trailer size will both be a joy to tow and make for some great camping memories.

We want to get a bigger trailer...but then we have to give up our favorite spots. So we are still camping in our comfortable 1987 travel trailer and enjoying every moment. Lol

Plus. Right now with everyone being a camper you will find alot of places are packed...the smaller camper will be easier to manuever and get you into the less populated places.
 

OC455

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Honestly, start spec'ing what you want to have and what your necessities will be. Then start looking at the lighter weight trailer options and what price range you'd like to be. You can get a decent used trailer (a few years old) for about half of what you'd pay for new.

That being said, most of the newer trailers have lighter materials in them & better options.

Keystone has light weight trailers with the Bullets and Premiers.

I'm sure the Minnie Winnies are pretty light as well.
 

NH RAM

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Thank you for the information. Definitely thinking about a smaller trailer for this truck. I did do a level on the truck when I changed over to Bilstein shocks. Because of that I'm thinking I will add some airbags to assist. We are thinking of starting with a rental trailer to see how we like it. If we buy one I will probably add the sway kit to help as well.
I leveled my 1500 with the Bilstein's at 2.1" and needed to add airbags, but I was at max capacity. I see you're set to 1.6", which is a little better for towing, however, prior to leveling my truck, I towed my smaller trailer and still felt the need for airbags to keep the truck from porpoising.
If you rent through a site like RVshare you can find campers that will include the wdh / sway control. If you're not starting with a weight distribution hitch, I would suggest that you add airbags and avoid highways since the wdh also controls sway. Travel trailers love to sway. I watched a small pop up trailer swaying all over the road from the wind as we traveled through South Dakota; I could certainly feel the wind pushing my truck / trailer as a unit, but not swaying the trailer. This trailer was wagging like a happy dogs tail; it was being towed by a Tahoe.

Good luck and have fun! Renting first is a great idea and I like the ease of towing our smaller trailer. I liked having a murphy bed but alas, the daughter, dog, and wife have different wants. On to a 5th wheel!
 

Douglas Walouke

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Ok...so here's a layman's experience and non-technical response towing with a 2014 1500 Longhorn (implying it has all the goodies Ram offers), 8 spd hemi. I pull a 21ft, Keystone Passport Ultralite. I pulled it out to Montana in early July with 4 adults in the truck, a full bed of gear (inflatable kayaks, a generator, and some other miscellaneous gear), and a fair amount of camping stuff in the camper. On flatter ground in the midwest, i was getting 10-11 mpg and the truck really didn't seem to work real hard. When we got into more open spaces with rolling hills, the headwind became very noticeable and pulled the mpg down to 9-ish. There was a fair amount of shifting between 5th and 7th and occasional drop into 4th going up a steeper hill (I tried to turn off the cruise at that point and settled for slowing down). Just last week, my wife and I went to the Black Hills. I had less gear, just the two of us, and much less in the camper. Mileage was about the same, maybe even a little worse due to stronger winds. Moral of the story, in my humble opinion, was that headwind REALLY matters.

Excuse my lack of a technical answer, but wanted to add my two cents given my very recent experiences.
 

William Heil

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2012 1500, 5.7 hemi, 3.5x axle.I am towing a 26 /30 foot 6900 lb dry trailer. stable in cross winds, no problems. engine works hard going up hills, but then I slow down. i keep speeds in the low sixties. gs mileage 8 to 10, I have towed about 2000 miles so far. I think it is working hard, but doing well. need air bags in the rear. equalizer hitch wont level the truck.
 

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Thank you for the information. Definitely thinking about a smaller trailer for this truck. I did do a level on the truck when I changed over to Bilstein shocks. Because of that I'm thinking I will add some airbags to assist. We are thinking of starting with a rental trailer to see how we like it. If we buy one I will probably add the sway kit to help as well.

Good idea of renting first. You will probably get hooked pretty quickly though. I was actually walking through Gander Outdoors looking for lawn chairs & happened to stroll through some trailers while I was there. THAT'S ALL IT TOOK! We were hooked & on the look out for a good used trailer. We went from a couple tents to a 38' 5th wheel within a couple of months! Took us a year later to find the lawn chairs we actually wanted. :laughing1:
 

GsRAM

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Good on you for coming here and asking questions first...before you buy a too big trailer and then have to sell it or spend more mlm money upgrading your truck (it's happened many times). The rv dealer will always tell you that you can pull anything on their lot. It gets a lot of folks in trouble.

I agree, under 30' overall, under 7500 gvwr (not dry weight!) and you should be ok.

Good luck.
 

NH RAM

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Ok...so here's a layman's experience and non-technical response towing with a 2014 1500 Longhorn (implying it has all the goodies Ram offers), 8 spd hemi. I pull a 21ft, Keystone Passport Ultralite. I pulled it out to Montana in early July with 4 adults in the truck, a full bed of gear (inflatable kayaks, a generator, and some other miscellaneous gear), and a fair amount of camping stuff in the camper. On flatter ground in the midwest, i was getting 10-11 mpg and the truck really didn't seem to work real hard. When we got into more open spaces with rolling hills, the headwind became very noticeable and pulled the mpg down to 9-ish. There was a fair amount of shifting between 5th and 7th and occasional drop into 4th going up a steeper hill (I tried to turn off the cruise at that point and settled for slowing down). Just last week, my wife and I went to the Black Hills. I had less gear, just the two of us, and much less in the camper. Mileage was about the same, maybe even a little worse due to stronger winds. Moral of the story, in my humble opinion, was that headwind REALLY matters.

Excuse my lack of a technical answer, but wanted to add my two cents given my very recent experiences.

Similar experience in my 1500 while towing both TT's we had / have. Headwinds kill gas mileage. Crosswinds kill gas mileage and are more work to drive through.
 
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