What's up with grease fittings???

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Racer9

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Within the last few years every time I grease anything it is very difficult to pull the grease coupling off the fitting. I actually have broken a few of them trying to twist them off. Sometimes I have to pry them off. I thought it was my old coupling, so I replaced it. Still have the problem. I never used to have that problem, just push it on, grease and pull it off. So what changed??? Anyone else notice this?
 

Randy Grant

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Solutions for a binding grease gun
  1. Tilt the coupler to break the seal. The most common method to release a stuck coupler is to tilt it sideways on the zerk fitting. This releases the high pressure, allowing the coupler to come free.
    • Adjust the coupler. Some high-quality grease gun couplers have an adjustable collar that controls the tension of the jaws.
      • Loosen the jaws: If the coupler grabs too tightly, turn the collar clockwise to loosen the grip.
      • Tighten the jaws: If grease leaks from the side, turn the collar counter-clockwise to create a tighter seal.
    • Upgrade the coupler. For regular maintenance, it may be worth investing in a higher-quality locking coupler, like those made by LockNLube. These are designed to snap on and off the zerk fitting easily, eliminating the struggle of a stuck coupler.
    • Clean fittings thoroughly. Always wipe down the zerk fitting with a rag before attaching the grease gun to prevent dirt from entering the joint and to ensure a clean, bind-free connection.
    • Relieve pressure. If the zerk is completely filled, you may need to use a special tool to break the seal and release the pressure. Some manufacturers also suggest slightly loosening the grease gun hose to relieve pressure in the line.
 
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Racer9

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Already tilt the coupler and work it in a circle while pulling.
Tried loosening the collar, grease squirts out the side but still won't come off easily.
New coupler, and hose.
Always clean fitting.
Pressurized makes it worse but not always the issue.
 

Randy Grant

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Already tilt the coupler and work it in a circle while pulling.
Tried loosening the collar, grease squirts out the side but still won't come off easily.
New coupler, and hose.
Always clean fitting.
Pressurized makes it worse but not always the issue.
Ahhh, but have you replaced it with a different zirk??? And have you tried a Lock-n-lube???
 

Daw14

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Just curious, where are the grease fittings you are lubricating .
I have not seen many in decades , other than u-joints or drive shaft splines.
I know some moog replacements come with them .
Need to know what I might be missing.
 
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Racer9

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Just curious, where are the grease fittings you are lubricating .
I have not seen many in decades , other than u-joints or drive shaft splines.
I know some moog replacements come with them .
Need to know what I might be missing.
The IHC lowering kit has fittings on nearly everything. All 8 control arm bushings, ball joints, and even sway bar links.
I guess I'm looking for a lock n lube.
 

Wild one

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The IHC lowering kit has fittings on nearly everything. All 8 control arm bushings, ball joints, and even sway bar links.
I guess I'm looking for a lock n lube.
Are you using a petroleum based grease on poly bushings,they don't mix,it'll cause the poly to swell,and you'll never get the grease gun off the nipple if you've pressurized it,you want a silicone based grease on poly.

 

Papawolf101

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Already tilt the coupler and work it in a circle while pulling.
Tried loosening the collar, grease squirts out the side but still won't come off easily.
New coupler, and hose.
Always clean fitting.
Pressurized makes it worse but not always the issue.
Have you taken the coupler completely apart? I'm wondering if one or both the inner pieces (sorry, I do not know the name) are switched around, top to bottom. I have had the same problem and always thought they were an either way type item, but when I switched them, they worked. The coupler doesn't need to be cranked tight either, just tight enough to keep the grease from coming out the side.
Not sure this is the problem, but worth a try!
 

Wild one

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Thanks, I'll take a look at that.
Pull a couple of the zerk fittings and see if they're plugged,you can use a small pic to scratch the hole clean the zerk screws into.You're blaming the wrong thing,odds are it's not a grease gun issue,it's probably more a bushing or dirty zerk fitting hole.If the gun works good when it's not attached to a zerk fitting,it's not the gun,it's the grease fitting
 
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Racer9

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The issue is with removing the coupler from the fitting, after it has taken grease.
I've been greasing things since I was 10 or 12 years old, waay back in the late 60's. I grew up on a farm and was taught maintenance that long ago. Used to push the coupler on, hear a click or feel it, grease, and pull it off fairly easily. Now it's a battle to get it off.
 

Wild one

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The issue is with removing the coupler from the fitting, after it has taken grease.
I've been greasing things since I was 10 or 12 years old, waay back in the late 60's. I grew up on a farm and was taught maintenance that long ago. Used to push the coupler on, hear a click or feel it, grease, and pull it off fairly easily. Now it's a battle to get it off.
That's cause the zerk probably isn't taking the grease,and it's pressuring up the fitting,once pressurized it gets to be a fight to get the gun off the zerk.Does it get hard to pump grease into the bushing after a pump or 2,then it's not the gun,as the zerks probably not taking grease. If you push the coupler onto the zerk does it come back off easy if you don't pump any grease into the zerk. I think you're going at it wrong,by not pulling the zerk out and checking the hole it's screwed into.
You still haven't said what kind of grease you've been pumping into your poly bushings.
For $h!ts and giggles go grease something else totally unrelated to what you're having issues with, and see what happens
 
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Wild one

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No, petroleum-based grease should not be used to lubricate polyurethane bushings because it can cause them to deteriorate, swell, and fail over time. Instead, use a silicone-based, synthetic, or specialized marine formula grease, as these are designed to be compatible with polyurethane and won't damage it.

Why you should avoid petroleum grease
  • Petroleum-based greases can react with polyurethane, causing it to deteriorate or swell, which leads to squeaking and premature failure.
  • Other petroleum-based products like motor oil and WD-40 should also be avoided for the same reasons.

What to use instead
  • Silicone-based grease: This is the most recommended type of lubricant for poly bushings because it is waterproof and won't damage the material.
 

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Yup, agree, lock N lube, I switched over to a battery operated grease gun, lock N lube best adapter, no more concern afterwards. As to grease, marine grade seems to be the ticket.
 
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Racer9

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There is no issue with the fitting taking grease.
And it's an issue with every newer fitting.
 

Wild one

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There is no issue with the fitting taking grease.
And it's an issue with every newer fitting.
Does the grease gun go on and off the zerk if you don't try pumping any grease into the zerk.
I have a feeling the bushings aren't actually taking any grease,and you're pressurizing the coupler to the point it's hard to get back off the zerk fitting.
If you've been using a petroleum based grease for a few years,the bushings could of swelled to the point they won't take grease anymore.
I'm guessing you've been using a petroleum based grease,as you're not telling us what grease you've been pumping into them.
Did you try using the grease gun on something else,if it works fine there,then there's nothing wrong with the grease gun or the coupler,and if the coupler goes on and off the zerks that are giving you trouble,with-out pumping any grease into the zerk,then it's the actual bushing that's not taking grease,probably cause it's swelled to the point it won't accept grease anymore.

This is the grease you should be using on them.

 
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