I added an amp as well. I tapped the factory sub wires with a line output converter and ran it to the amp. I left factory sub in place and added a single 12" sub box under the seat. I had to modify box a little so it would be completely hidden under the seat. As for swapping the HK sub you would need a shallow mount sub. There is not much room on the back wall (driver side is takin up by the etec battery).
Wow, that looks slick. What sub box did you use? And what modification did you have top make? The sloped back end, I presume? I am definitely interested in replicating what you have done.
As an aside, I had some thoughts about replacing the factory sub and installing a higher power one along with an amp. I suspect the factory amp is pretty low powered. Yeah, 900 watts for all "19" speakers. I am sure that is peak, not RMS wattage. RMS is probably half or less but is more in line with what our ears hear. How much of that did they allocate to the factory sub? Also, did they quote "900 watts" by using the power handling capability of the speakers or the actual power of the amp? LOL. I can't find any details on that stuff on the web just yet.
I had the factory sub out a week or two ago so as to examine it and what is behind it, and I can tell you that it is VERY shallow. Maybe 3 inches! I have not been able to find a replacement sub that I thought would fit. The structure behind the sub is all plastic type stuff, which undoubtedly does not help in the sound department. While I had it out, I stuffed fiberglass insulation behind the sub, which subtly helped.
RE: the rip cord to allow the seat to lean forward, be sure to pull toward the passenger door, or if as is more likely, reaching behind from the center console, push the cord toward the passenger door. Down or toward the center console will not release the seat.