Which Hitch to buy?

[MaineRam]

Hey Everyone


This is probably a question asked 1000 times, but I just want to make sure I am getting the right equipment. I have a 2012 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Express 4wd with the 6 spd and the Hemi. I also have the trailer brake control package. The thing I am missing is the Hitch. I am looking at either a Curt class 3 or class 4. I notice the class three says its rated for 6K lbs. Is this the correct hitch? I thought the rams were capable of 10k lbs towing? I've never towed before, don't even have a trailer, but I want to be able to. Any information you could sling my was would be appreciated!

 

[clh1220]

Get a class 4 ,then you don't need too worry about it. Curt is a good company.

 

[14hemiexpress]

If you look at the rateing that 6k one curt part number 13333 it's rated to 10k with WD hitch technically after 5 we are supposed to run a WD hitch. The 10k towing capacity is for the 3.92 gear ratio and honestly with the light payload on these trucks youll be hard pressed to pull a 10k without being over weight on your truck. The class 3 will work fine for our trucks especially if you only have the 3.55 axle the class 4 is over kill witch is never a bad thing.

 

[MaineRam]

Okay, So it seems class 3 will probably be enough for what I might do. I just need to invest in a Weight Distribution hitch if I plan to tow heavier. I also think I have 3.21 gears, but I don't know for sure.

 

[clh1220]

Mine came with a class 4 even though I have 3.21.

 

[preachp]

Hi Op,

The factory hitch on my 2013 Tradesman with 3:55 gears is a class 4. I would go with the factory preference on this.

preachp

 

[14hemiexpress]

For refeense the curt 13333 should be a class 3/4 hitch. Only reason I mensioned it is the fact I had a 06 that put the 13333 on and it was easy to install and $60 cheeper. 19 out 20 times I was below 6k I did pull a 8k enclosed trailer with it. If you are the kind of guy that $60 and a extra hour or 2 is worth being over kill go for the replacement but a car on a open top trailer is under 6k most of the time. If your pulling over 6k consistently your going to want a WD anyways.

 

[skHemi64]

I vote for Class 4. They are built a bit stronger than the Class 3 and give you that overkill room that you should have. Should be a no brainer.

 

[BoldAdventure]

Install Class 5 never worry ever. I've seen a class 3 break on a truck before. But class 4 would be recommended.

 

[NorthTexasHemi]

Dust off your vin and get the information you need about your truck

This link will show you the build sheet for your truck:
Click on Equipment listed and then enter your VIN.
Dodge - Contact Us


This one will so you the max tow capacity for your truck:
Click on Look up my vehicle and enter your VIN.
Ram Trucks - Towing Capacity Chart

 

[SlowRoller]

Bigger is not always best.
Many moons ago, Dad bought a new Suburban. Thought he might tow fertilizer spreaders from town to the farm with it, so he had the local welding shop fab/install a monster hitch,,,

Like anything else that local shop made, it was overbuilt,,, Probably close to 200 lbs of steel in it,,

Long story short, Dad never hauled ANYTHING with that Suburban. He drug around 200 lbs of steel for years for nothing,,, Complete waste of time getting a big *** hitch if ya never use it,,,

IMHO there's absolutely nothing wrong with wanting the capability to haul some kind of a trailer. Darn good idea, actually.

But on the same hand, and considering you don't own any trailers,,, there's no sense whatsoever in goin ape **** nutz with a massive hitch.

IMHO, the Curt 13333 model listed previously is a ~decent~ choice for your application.

Not so much that it's the 'bad mamma jamma' of all hitches, but it's inexpensive, easy to install, concealed***, and will allow you to tow ~something~ vs. nothing.

If there comes a day when it it's 'not enough', you aren't out much.

(*** Exposed hitches can get pretty skanky-looking over time. To some, they also look like an 'add-on'.)

 

[Irrivirsible]

Is a receiver better than a ball hitch?