why does my amp cut out ????

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jbmobbs

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I recently installed 2 kicker comp 12s and a 1000 watt amp......the amp kicks outafter about 30 min of some good bass and i want to know why cause I gotta turn the amp off and back on when I do. Any advise?
 

LB3711

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thermal overload i bet. most causes are that the ohm load is below what the amp can handle and its getting hot.

example if the amp can handle 4 ohms max and you have 2 4 ohm subs hooked in series it doubles the ohms so 8 ohms

or hooked in parallel the ohms are cut in half so the 2 4 ohm speakers would be 2 ohms

your either shorting the amp out with to low of ohms(impudence) and drawing too much power from the amp.

i hope i explained it right or someone else will correct me,

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quietpeen

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What are the specs on your subs?
 

LB3711

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specs on the amp also.

How are the subs hooked up.

Also it might be one of thoes cheaper amps that say high wattage but in reality its not and your just over driving the amp

example says 1000 watts but the rms is like half that abd you have the settings cranked up over driving it.
 

quietpeen

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What about the subs?
 

Johnn123

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Sounds to me like its shutting down and going into safe mode from power overload over heating it. You're pushing to much power essentially, as LB1377 explained. As others have said, we need specs before we can help more.
 
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jbmobbs

jbmobbs

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I'm not sure on the subs but their kicker comp 12in and I think their 500 watts a piece I'll have to pull one out of the box to tell ya
 

Birddog

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It sounds like thermal overload to me also. If you like your amp and want a cheap fix, add a fan to blow the heat off of the heat sinks. It sounds to me like you may have installed it in a place where it's not getting enough air circulation. High end competition systems have all of the amps mounted in view not just for looks but for sure circulation. I have seen a suburban with 20 12" woofers in the back with the amps having their own air conditioner installed. When you run it hard the amps get hot. You have to get rid of the heat of you want to keep them pumping hard.

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LB3711

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a fan is just a band aid. Theres a reason its doing what its doing. I'm leaning towards its not a true 1000 watt amp and its getting over driven. Kicker speakers are pretty good. Pyramid is a lower quality amp then a true 1000 watt amp that would cost alot more.
 

Birddog

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I agree that it's a band aid, that's why I started my post with "if you like your amp ". Not everyone has the budget to go buy a new amp at a moments notice. To really solve the problem, you need an amp that is sufficient to overdrive the speakers you have and then be kind to your speakers on the volume control. I don't buy aftermarket audio for my vehicles anymore but the last good amp I had was an Xtant when it was the king of the competition road (later it was bought out by a cheaper larger company that cheapened the components and the amp). That amp costed me over $800 in the 90s. It was a true 1000 watt amp. I live in the burbs but I work in a big city so I got tired of buying expensive stuff that other people want to break in and steal. I decided one day to buy a new vehicle and keep the stereo stock and surprisingly I haven't been broken into since.

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jbmobbs

jbmobbs

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here's my setup
4384.jpg
4385.jpg
4386.jpg


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WhiteExpress

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I'm going to jump on the Thermal Overload bandwagon here too.

Those look to be Kicker Comp 12s, but they made them in dual 2 Ohm and dual 4 Ohm variants, without knowing that, it's a total crap shoot.

It does look (and I can't see that well) that you've got the front channel bridged, and nothing on the rear channel, would could potentially put a HELL of a low Ohm load / heat that amp up speedy quick.

Does the amp get hot to the touch? It doesn't look like it has **** for cooling (fins etc).

We can prolly get you running better / not shutting off, but ultimately, that amplifier is just a 'cheap' unit and won't ever be ideal.
 

LB3711

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if the speakers are 500watt each then you are over driving the amp or going below 4 ohms. Amp can only do 4 ohms.

I found the manual online but its a pain to download

Amp specs are:
250 Watts x 4 Output
500W x 2 Bridged Output (250W x 2 + 500W x 1) << means 500W to 1 channel and 500W going to the other. The bridged output means 3 channel. the left side is the mono sub output and the right 4 screws are for 2 speakers(left&right)
 

LB3711

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that or JL audo. I have a JL 500/1 amp and it runs like a champ and loves more power. I ran 2 Kicker Comp VR 12's that were 500w each and never had issues and were loud. Worth every penny.
 
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