Synthetic Oil

[tjfdesmo]

Ok ok oil,


Just wanted to do a quick update on the redline 5W 40 I am running in my 6.4.

Long story short for those who don’t know. on and off I have been battling coldstart clatter that last for about 1-2 seconds. Redline 10w40 has shown the best results so far but I want to find oil that I can run year around being I can’t run 10 W in Michigan winters.

The 5w40 has been in for about 300 miles and i have not had cold start clatter yet!


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Mine goes in Thursday, so I hope it is the solution. Mine was ticking pretty bad again today on the 0W40 RL, @ 7K miles.

 

[U&A]

Mine goes in Thursday, so I hope it is the solution. Mine was ticking pretty bad again today on the 0W40 RL, @ 7K miles.

Good luck sir!


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[chrisbh17]

Have you tried deliberately "slow starting" the truck?

i.e. put the key in, turn to accessory, turn to run, wait for 5 seconds, then crank?

A few people have mentioned this helps alleviate their cold start clatter (not saying its the same as yours, but it might be worth a shot)

 

[joshuaeb09]

Ok ok oil,


Just wanted to do a quick update on the redline 5W 40 I am running in my 6.4.

Long story short for those who don’t know. on and off I have been battling coldstart clatter that last for about 1-2 seconds. Redline 10w40 has shown the best results so far but I want to find oil that I can run year around being I can’t run 10 W in Michigan winters.

The 5w40 has been in for about 300 miles and i have not had cold start clatter yet!


Edit: The frequency of my cold start clatter has been random. I can go months without it and then have it every start for a couple days or up to a week on and off. 10W-40 gave almost a full six months without coldstart clatter.

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Still debating on if I'll switch my 6.4 to 5W40, but I'll keep following and make up my mind a few months when it actually needs to be changed in the spring. If you end up having better luck on the 5W40 I'll more than likely make the switch.

 

[U&A]

Have you tried deliberately "slow starting" the truck?

i.e. put the key in, turn to accessory, turn to run, wait for 5 seconds, then crank?

A few people have mentioned this helps alleviate their cold start clatter (not saying its the same as yours, but it might be worth a shot)

Every time from day one of purchases


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[Ramnewbie]

Have you tried deliberately "slow starting" the truck?

i.e. put the key in, turn to accessory, turn to run, wait for 5 seconds, then crank?

A few people have mentioned this helps alleviate their cold start clatter (not saying its the same as yours, but it might be worth a shot)

That would have more to do with injector clatter than valve clatter.

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[U&A]

That would have more to do with injector clatter than valve clatter.

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Correct sir. It prepares the fuel pump. Building pressure that may have been lost while sitting.


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[U&A]

If my cold start clatter continues im going to try changing the filter to a wixXP. I know it aint no RP 20-820 but i got to try somthing.

The fellas that have the brief (1-3 seconds) cold start valve train noise..... what filters were you using when it happened?

Just thinking is all.

I switched from the fram ultra synthetic so long ago i dont honestly remember if it did it with that filter or not. But a few bad experiences with that filter made me switch.


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[chrisbh17]

If my cold start clatter continues im going to try changing the filter to a wixXP. I know it aint no RP 20-820 but i got to try somthing.

The fellas that have the brief (1-3 seconds) cold start valve train noise..... what filters were you using when it happened?

Just thinking is all.

I switched from the fram ultra synthetic so long ago i dont honestly remember if it did it with that filter or not. But a few bad experiences with that filter made me switch.


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IME there are two types of cold start clatter. One, to me, is standard lifter bleed down. Its a slight top end tick that goes away after 10-20 seconds or so.

The other is a God awful clacking that makes you think something is bouncing around inside. In my case it only occurs for 2 or 3 seconds but it feels longer than that because it sounds so horrible. I can recreate it at will, so I just avoid the situation.

I have had both types of clatter with stock, small RP and large RP filters, factory fill, pup and pyb also made no difference.

Redline with large RP has quieted or even eliminated the first type, I have not tried to recreate the second type since putting RL in.

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[joshuaeb09]

If my cold start clatter continues im going to try changing the filter to a wixXP. I know it aint no RP 20-820 but i got to try somthing.

The fellas that have the brief (1-3 seconds) cold start valve train noise..... what filters were you using when it happened?

Just thinking is all.

I switched from the fram ultra synthetic so long ago i dont honestly remember if it did it with that filter or not. But a few bad experiences with that filter made me switch.


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On the 5.7 its done with it with the MO-399, MO-899, the SRT filter, and the 20-820. My 6.4 would do it regularly with the SRT Filter and PUP 0W40. RL 0W40 and 20-820's it's a very rare occurrence.

 

[U&A]

Thanks for the input guys.

And I’m talking about the very short but loud clatter that sounds like a two-stroke Detroit diesel valve train.[emoji23]

I think this situation is also bleed down of the hydraulic lifters as it should take a VERY short amount of time to send oil back to them and tighten them up.


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[Burla]

how many miles on latest oil change? does your truck call for the 20-820 or the 10-40, point being if you are gonna try wix xp see if they have the larger one. Going from a large filter to a small filter surely wont help your cause.

That is the problem when you use the top of the heap, there is no up. I'm not sure you are gonna fix this with lubrication. Honestly I wonder if going the other way is the play, 5w30. But I would do it until I went at least 5k miles and got my moneys worth. Less vii's in 5w30, might be the answer, and I say might.

 

[Burla]

No.....

But i heard from a guy at work if you start using Amsoil than your wifes boobs will get bigger and you get an automatic membership to BITOG.

Sound like a good deal.

I would be ok with my wife's boob's being bigger, but I still wouldn't run Amsoil. They completely left the formulas that made them famous and a favorite in order to be the best choice for di turbo's. If you have a di, go Amsoil, but Burla aint ever owning a di turbo. And for ***** sake you have three oil lineups, why not leave one of them for the formulas that made you?

 

[U&A]

how many miles on latest oil change? does your truck call for the 20-820 or the 10-40, point being if you are gonna try wix xp see if they have the larger one. Going from a large filter to a small filter surely wont help your cause.

That is the problem when you use the top of the heap, there is no up. I'm not sure you are gonna fix this with lubrication. Honestly I wonder if going the other way is the play, 5w30. But I would do it until I went at least 5k miles and got my moneys worth. Less vii's in 5w30, might be the answer, and I say might.

Redline 5w30 is still on my list. If 5w40 doesn’t work that is my next step.


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[Burla]

I forget, didn't you just get a uoa? I would use uoa's to see what is going on as opposed to noise.

 

[U&A]

I forget, didn't you just get a uoa? I would use uoa's to see what is going on as opposed to noise.

I completely understand. And agree. The UOA is the final answer. And it was great. With redline 10w40.



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[Burla]

Well **** no wonder they're all about it over there at bobs

Yeah, um that aint it, lol. Amsoil butters bob's bread. When they ban a "Redline guy" for saying pim tacky in jest despite those dudes saying the garbage they say in the name of Amsoil, it is clear as day the mods are Amsoil, lol. Funny to see Pennzoil throw them so much support and watch that forum go away from that and square in the basket of Amsoil. BITOG = just another marketing arm of amsoil, which doesn't mean you can't get good info there because you can.

I completely understand. And agree. The UOA is the final answer. And it was great. With redline 10w40.

Mineral oil 10w40 good down to -30F, and redline 10w40 will do well below that. Sorry bro I am so forgetful, why did you go away from 10w40?

 

[U&A]

Yeah, um that aint it, lol. Amsoil butters bob's bread. When they ban a "Redline guy" for saying pim tacky in jest despite those dudes saying the garbage they say in the name of Amsoil, it is clear as day the mods are Amsoil, lol. Funny to see Pennzoil throw them so much support and watch that forum go away from that and square in the basket of Amsoil. BITOG = just another marketing arm of amsoil, which doesn't mean you can't get good info there because you can.




Mineral oil 10w40 good down to -30F, and redline 10w40 will do well below that. Sorry bro I am so forgetful, why did you go away from 10w40?

Mostly because of cold weather.


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[Burla]

Mostly because of cold weather.

Because you were preparing for the cold weather or reacting to something with the cold weather? Can you spell out your history again, you are getting more complicated then that h395 guy. Oil and next to 1-10 satisfaction simply by sound as we already know the uoa was good 10w40. any unpleasantness with 10w40 ever?

Mine would look like this...

5w20 redline satisfaction-10
5w30 redline satisfaction-10
10w30 redline satisfaction-7

and now you are on 100% 5w40 redline and how many miles?

 

[Burla]

I see 300 miles on the new 100% 5w40 redline right? If so, Kyle you really shouldn't think about touching that yet, ask Corey. You have to give the formula's science a chance. It is been between 500 and 1700 miles with many of us including me and corey. You aren't even there yet.