Synthetic Oil

[AFMoulton]

I am concerned about it because it’s a warranty coverage I paid extra for. But on the contrary, I don’t ever want to use it. Well, at least on my motor, anyways. That’s why I still insist on doing my own oil changes. I’m not paying the dealer to do it.


If all I had was just factory warranty, I wouldn’t care much either. I know how to maintain my own vehicles. Been doing it for years. But this is my first brand new vehicle, and the only reason I purchased the lifetime warranty was because of all the gadgets. The air suspension, primarily. And well, that 8-speed transmission.




2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 4 Qts 5W-30 and 3 Qts 0W-40
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

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Perfectly reasonable, and understandable, I bought an extended warranty for the same reason on the Durango, because of all the expensive ass electronics. Not my engine and transmission.

Plenty of guys running Hemi’s out there with dealer oil changes we’ll past 100,000 miles.



2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 4 Qts 5W-30 and 3 Qts 0W-40
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

 

[U&A]

You purchased more warranty..... stay with mopar. Id let those ***** do ALL the work.

That had always been our opinion


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[corneileous]

Now, wait one minute. Weren't your questions rearding oils that the manu wants you to run that are spec'd? Now, you are getting saucy with everyone trying to help on you. Most of your posts are not about running some manu friendly oil all in 5w20 because they know best? Serious now Corn, dont dig yourself in a hole.

Sorry, just kinda sensed a lot of sarcasm.

But yeah, I am looking primarily at 20 weight, not so much because that’s what they say, but because in a lot of ways, I’m not so convinced it’s insignificant.

I’m not digging my self into any hole....[emoji41]


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[Burla]

Corn is out the same hole. Stay with the Mopar, they can't deny that.

 

[corneileous]

Oil comes from a hole in the ground Corn, it's all the same. Aditives make it different. If you buy group 3 Corn, it came from a hole.

I know oil comes from the ground. But what separates it from the rest is how it’s refined and what combination of additives each brand uses.

Your point?


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[Burla]

So is there something about Mopar oil that you don't like? It came from the same hole as m1 Corn, just say'n.

 

[corneileous]

So is there something about Mopar oil that you don't like? It came from the same hole as m1 Corn, just say'n.

Well for one, it’s not synthetic, is it? Or is that **** you posted while back, the semi-syn they put in at the factory?

Either way, I don’t even like running those extended drain intervals that they sayin should be doing, even with full synthetic. I couldn’t imagine doing that with the bottom of the barrel oil the truck was new with.


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[AFMoulton]

If you ran the Mopar spec oil, changed at the dealer, till your truck said Change Engine Oil, and then your motor blew up, it would be 100% covered, no questions asked.

Buy a bottle of Mopar Motor Oil, and a Bottle of PUP, and send in Samples for Black Stone to run VOA’s on them. That should tell you everything you could hope to know about the oil.

2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 4 Qts 5W-30 and 3 Qts 0W-40
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

 

[Hemi395]

Use a Pennzoil product like PP or PUP. They would have a real hard time denying a warranty claim with receipts showing you purchased a MS-6395 certified oil. Just make sure on the bottle of whatever oil you choose the wording is shows that it has the 6395 certification. Any Pennzoil oil is a sure bet tho.

 

[corneileous]

If you ran the Mopar spec oil, changed at the dealer, till your truck said Change Engine Oil, and then your motor blew up, it would be 100% covered, no questions asked.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper St MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 4 Qts 5W-30 and 3 Qts 0W-40
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

I should be covered even while doing it myself and keeping detailed records of my maintenances. Guess I’ll find out someday in the long run if that was a good idea or not. Hell, on that token, I should just probably run what I wanna run and hope for the best since I don’t conform completely.


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[Burla]

Well for one, it’s not synthetic, is it? Or is that **** you posted while back, the semi-syn they put in at the factory?

Either way, I don’t even like running those extended drain intervals that they sayin should be doing, even with full synthetic. I couldn’t imagine doing that with the bottom of the barrel oil the truck was new with.

If I posted it is semi syn from factory that is a **** hole statement corn, I don't know why I would have said that. I would be a dummy. I have no idea what comes from the factory the uoa's "look" like pyb, note moly and calcium levels.

 

[corneileous]

Use a Pennzoil product like PP or PUP. They would have a real hard time denying a warranty claim with receipts showing you purchased a MS-6395 certified oil. Just make sure on the bottle of whatever oil you choose the wording is shows that it has the 6395 certification. Any Pennzoil oil is a sure bet tho.

I do use PUP. But since that Amsoil SS is is MS6395 compliant as well, that’s why i was inquiring about it too, and if it was just a waste to use in a naturally-aspirated motor since it was more/less(to my knowledge) formulated for direct injected turbo’ed motors.

But based on your last part, I may just stay with Pennzoil PUP. It’s inexpensive, and so far it’s been decent.


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[Burla]

The whole truth Corn is you are a smart guy, your strategy is solid.

 

[Hemi395]

The problem with Amsoil SS is that it doesn't have the API donut so if your dealer is a PITA they could deny your warranty because of that. IDK I'd stick with PUP honestly.

 

[corneileous]

If I posted it is semi syn from factory that is a **** hole statement corn, I don't know why I would have said that. I would be a dummy. I have no idea what comes from the factory the uoa's "look" like pyb, note moly and calcium levels.

Well, I dunno, I was just simply asking. You were the one that initially said to basically go “Mopar Everything”. That stuff you linked didn’t say and, I dunno, to my knowledge the factory fill is semi-synthetic. It would have to be, if they expect you to stretch those change intervals out to the lengths their oil change meter says to.


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[U&A]

We are giving educated guesses that FF is PYB and mopar semi-synthetic that you see at the dealer is PGB


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Burla]

Corn, this hole thing is a fkin mess, sorry man.

 

[corneileous]

The problem with Amsoil SS is that it doesn't have the API donut so if your dealer is a PITA they could deny your warranty because of that. IDK I'd stick with PUP honestly.

It’s not? Amsoil’s website sure makes it look like it is.


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[corneileous]

We are giving educated guesses that FF is PYB and mopar semi-synthetic that you see at the dealer is PGB


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

I realize that but the whole reason of this was asking what that Mopar oil that Burla suggested I use. I have no reason to think otherwise that the factory fill isn’t semi-syn.


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[Burla]

welp, the hole truth on group 3 Corn is it is all good stuff, and very similar. No reason to go away from some spec oil in favor of a fancy name when you have a lifetime warranty. What could FCA say if you use "their" oil? that it, good luck bud