Just a couple of tips for others who may take on this tank swap adventure:
The connections are pretty straightforward, but you can mark them with tape to make it easier.
Make sure there is no damage to the rollover valve on the new tank. Once that is done, make sure you don’t damage the rollover valve yourself. From everything I’ve read, they are not meant to be removed and the part is not available by itself. I say this because I broke off one of the connections and it took me days to figure out the best way to fix it. (My solution was to use a roll pin just slightly larger than the holes to connect the two broken pieces. You’ll most likely have to ream it with a drill bit. I gently tapped the pin into the valve, then tapped the broken piece onto the pin. You can use JB Weld or similar on the pin to secure it further. I didn’t and it seems fine.)
If you’re using a lift, for God’s sake use the mechanical advantage of raising and lowering the vehicle from the tank. I had a solid platform to lower the old tank onto and then stage the new one. For some stupid reason I decided to manhandle the new tank into position instead of leaving it on the platform, which I how I broke the rollover valve.
Make sure everything is connected when you are done. I thought I double and triple checked, but I missed one connection, resulting in a month of the gas cap light P0457 and evap leak P0456 codes. The connection was at the front of the tank and had to be viewed with a mirror. Once it was connected, it still took a couple of days for the gas cap and service engine lights to go out.
Double check the fuel line connector at the engine before you fire things up. It may seem locked in place when it is not.