Synthetic Oil

[Burla]

Yes but i will never stop! Lol must save the ticking hemis!

Cool, time for me to retire.

 

[Rod Knock]

Its also spec'ed for NON synthetic 5w20 with some rated to tow up to 10000lbs. Talk about over working dino 5w20...

At least they're not dying with a rod flying through the block due to bearing failure, as some Hyundais do... because 5W-20 was specked in a GDI motor that dilutes motor oil. 0W-20/5W-20 are fine in a perfect world, but neither leaves you any cushion if any kind of abuse or failure takes place. I wanted to a by-the-book kind of guy with the Sonata, but 0W-20 is coming out of that one pretty soon. I'll replace it with 5W-30. It's my brother's car and it stays with me when he's overseas.

 

[MontanaHandyman]

Thanks, I will go to the larger filter next oil change. Didn't know the smaller filter hindered the top end with oil.

Fun fact (if you wanna call it that!)...I do the maintenance for an old gal on her '92 Honda Accord (260k miles and still going strong) with a little 4 banger, and the oil filter is the same size as the recommended filter for my 5.7 hemi...go figure!

 

[ripping r]

Cool, time for me to retire.

well before you do that. would you say 0-40 or 5-40 for a hard working 6.4

 

[Rod Knock]

well before you do that. would you say 0-40 or 5-40 for a hard working 6.4

 

[ripping r]

View attachment 249824

 

[Burla]

well before you do that. would you say 0-40 or 5-40 for a hard working 6.4

Depends where on erf you are

No but for real, 0w40's are best effort oils as there was a lot of research and development on stay in grade specs, manu's used that weight specifically to avoid the api regs imo. Many of them seamed to achieve this with the use of stable base oils instead of just packing them with vii's. So many 5w40's don't have merc 229.5 or dexos lisc where the same brand 0w40's do have those. So I'd look for those specs on a 0w40 or just trust PUP 0w40. PUP 0w40 will shear more but starts a little higher then those super class 0w40's that carry those desirable specs. What our friend has posted 25w40 would only play in a warm state, likely the same as SAE 40, which would be great for a hard working engine, absent start up issues. I dont think id pop on that unless i was using it as a hm oil in warm state.

 

[ripping r]

Depends where on erf you are

No but for real, 0w40's are best effort oils as there was a lot of research and development on stay in grade specs, manu's used that weight specifically to avoid the api regs imo. Many of them seamed to achieve this with the use of stable base oils instead of just packing them with vii's. So many 5w40's don't have merc 229.5 or dexos lisc where the same brnad 0w40's do have those. So I'd look for those specs on a 0w40 or just trust PUP 0w40. PUP 0w40 will shear more but starts a little higher then those super class 0w40's that carry those desirable specs. What are friend has would only play in a warm state, likely the same as SAE 40, which would be great for a hard working engine, absent start to issues.

I run pup 0-40 now. no tick or strange noises. but on this next change i thought i would try redline. but was thinking about the 5-40 im always in the heat. winter i might see 15f but thats really it summer 90+ ill stick with my srt filter.

 

[Burla]

I run pup 0-40 now. no tick or strange noises. but on this next change i thought i would try redline. but was thinking about the 5-40 im always in the heat. winter i might see 15f but thats really it summer 90+ ill stick with my srt filter.

If it aint broke it don't fix it, but if you really wanted reldine then 5w30 would be the best play even at 15f. The issue with most redline's 40 weight are that they are damn heavy, so I wouldn't want any of them in my engine when it was 15f. However, if you are talking just a summer strategy, 5w40 is the way to go over any other 40 weight redline. In redline they break the rules other brands adhere to. So someone always needs to start with that when asking a question, because they have nuances in their specific formulas ram forum has found out over time. In redline 5w40 is their best effort oil over 0w40 redline.

 

[ripping r]

If it aint broke it don't fix it, but if you really wanted reldine then 5w30 would be the best play even at 15f. The issue with most redline's 40 weight are that they are damn heavy, so I wouldn't want any of them in my engine when it was 15f. However, if you are talking just a summer strategy, 5w40 is the way to go over any other 40 weight redline. In redline they break the rules other brands adhere to. So someone always needs to start with that when asking a question, because they have nuances in their specific formulas ram forum has found out over time. In redline 5w40 is their best effort oil over 0w40 redline.

I really dont want to switch around winter and summer. i guess ill just stay with pup. and change if i ever get a tick.

 

[Rod Knock]

In redline they break the rules other brands adhere to. So someone always needs to start with that when asking a question, because they have nuances in their specific formulas ram forum has found out over time. In redline 5w40 is their best effort oil over 0w40 redline.

Actually Red Line Oil doesn't adhere to ani conventional API rules. If anything, they do exactly the opposite of what ILSAC demands. That being said, Red Line 0W-40 is nice compromise and worlds better than PUP and flows in the cold about as well as Castrol EDGE 0W-40. My wife runs EDGE 0W-40 in her Santa Fe and it's fine in the cold.

 

[Burla]

So my guess he was asking about heavy duty, and the numbers arent really close 0w40 to 5w40 as the HTHS and NOACK is substantially different, but the operating visc near the same. Yes 0w40 is a middle oil, but I don't see much use for it personally, I like 5w40, 5w30, and 0w30. Just because of the report we have gotten over the years here, but yes unfortunately these hemi's often need trial and error, it is not one size fits all. Some will cold knock, some will warm knock, some will dry knock, and if you are lucky you will have one with no knocks. But it is painful due to the cost to put the wrong redline in, so I like 5w30 and 0w30 in those situations. Kyle seams pretty happy with 5w30 reldine and he has tried many different redline's in the 6'4 and the man works it pretty hard. I;m sure you are right, and 0w40 would be the best choice for some hemi's, but I'm not sure it would be an all around better choice then 5w40 or 5w30 in many trucks.

redlines stats

SAE Viscosity Grade (Motor Oil) 0W40
Vis @ 100°C, CSt 15.4
Vis @ 40°C, CSt 86
Viscosity Index 190
CCS Viscosity, Poise, @ °C 57@-35
Pour Point, °C -60
Pour Point, °F -76
NOACK Evaporation Loss,1hr @ 482°F (250°C), % 9
HTHS Vis, CP @150°C, ASTM D4741 4.0

SAE Viscosity Grade (Motor Oil) 5W40
Vis @ 100°C, CSt 15.6
Vis @ 40°C, CSt 97
Viscosity Index 174
CCS Viscosity, Poise, @ °C 58@-30
Pour Point, °C -45
Pour Point, °F -49
NOACK Evaporation Loss,1hr @ 482°F (250°C), % 6
HTHS Vis, CP @150°C, ASTM D4741 4.4

SAE Viscosity Grade (Motor Oil) 5W30
Vis @ 100°C, CSt 11.9
Vis @ 40°C, CSt 71
Viscosity Index 166
CCS Viscosity, Poise, @ °C 60@-30
Pour Point, °C -45
Pour Point, °F -49
NOACK Evaporation Loss,1hr @ 482°F (250°C), % 6
HTHS Vis, CP @150°C, ASTM D4741 3.7

@U&A didnt you run 5w40, 0w40 and 5w30 in the 6.4?

 

[Rod Knock]

@Burla Red Line Oil uses higher density base oils. The HEMI 6.4 will be fine with RL 0W-40, and he can stick with one oil year-round. Especially since his motor has an Oil-Coolant heat exchanger, the coolant will help bring the oil to temperature. NOACK isn't everything, and higher NOACK is normal for 0W oils. Fun fact, the 5.7 HEMI has the same clearances and tolerances as the 6.4, though the 6.4 has a slightly more powerful oil pump. I would do RL 0W-40 and a UOA after 5000 miles and see how it performs. When switching to redline, it's a good idea to dump a 15 oz bottle of Lubegard Engine Flush and run the engine for 30 minutes. And let it sit for 2 to 3 hours, and drain it really well. Use a RP 20-820 oil filter. They are outstanding. When I go Red Line, that's what I will use. It makes no sense to spend so much money on Motor Oil and not get the best filter.

 

[Treburkulosis]

@Burla all of this talk about redline what are your views or thoughts on Amsoil?

 

[Burla]

@Burla all of this talk about redline what are your views or thoughts on Amsoil?

I'm not a fan of everything redline, or everything amsoil, depends on the thing or the specific question on a specific formula. Amsoil's flagship SS oils are great, low wear numbers plus the longest interval oil I have seen, great stats as well, clearly great base oils. Their Transmission oils are top notch, no shear, and the gear oils stand out as well. I didnt try amsoil first before redline because they didnt sell it locally, if they did maybe I would have, I can't say for sure. Bottom line if amsoil keeps your hemi quiet there is a great argument for it over redline, as it is more in line with modern oils and the reasons for running them, including better protection for the cats. But, if your hemi ticks on that just move over to redline, kinda simple.

 

[Rod Knock]

@Burla all of this talk about redline what are your views or thoughts on Amsoil?

I know you asked @Burla, but I'll chime in: AMSOIL SS from 0W-20 to 5W-30 and everything in between is meant to mimic API SP / ILSA GF6. You can't run these oils for extended drain intervals in GDI/T-GDI engines, and they don't show any real-world benefit in HEMIs. Red Line Oil is a track-focused / enthusiast motor oil that is meant for abuse. It's not meant for extended OCIs. It's meant to protect your engine and that's it. If you have a clean HEMI then run AMSOIL SS 0W-40 with the big filter. It will do about the same job as PUP 0W-40 / M1 0W-40 / EDGE 0W-40. Because of how modern engines trash oil, AMSOIL's motor-oil glory days are just about over.

 

[Burla]

If my hemi didn't tick, I would likely be on kirlkland oil 5w30 with biotech and still an RP filter. When I'm out of PUP, will be moving our other vehicle to kirland.

 

[Burla]

There simply is nothing wrong with this picture, kirkland 5w30. Now add it to the fact it is 3 dollars a quart, I just see no reason for anything else. Amazon and walmart have had a long standing oil war dropping prices so steep you cant buy shelf oil anywhere else or you look dumb, and costco just came in and said F you two we are taking over.

Makes me respect Nick, the dude walked into the big boys oil world and sells his stuff basically the same price, that is rare. Nick does stuff that pep boys and autozone doesn't, compete with the big companies.

Im putting money where my mouth is, next time I will do kirland oil change in the other vehicle. Save the PUP.

 

[Treburkulosis]

@Burla and @phoenixgenesys The only reason why I ask, is because I got suckered into buying AMSOIL for a 331 stroker Ford motor. It was on oil change #3. I went with that and a wix filter. I made it about 1000 miles into it and threw a rod. Wasn't really being hard on it. It was just a car show car. Oil pressure on a mechanical gauge red 60 going down the road warm, 40 idle warm. Anyways had the motor torn down by my builder and even though I had a melling high flow pump in it some how it starved the engine. This was 15 years ago. About the time Redline and Amsoil became popular. The pump was fine it was the oil. Every stroker I had built ran 15w50 in it, so that's what I ran with it. I basically had to eat the motor rebuild. Went back to Mobil 1 back you could still get the original stuff and never another issue. Now as we have long sense debated, I would not put Mobil 1 in my Hemi. Pup is very good and I am not a pennzoil guy at all. I run Castrol Edge and Puraltor boss filter and never one ounce of issues.

 

[Burla]

That's one of those things, regardless of the cause I wouldn't run that oil again if it were me. Even though there is less then a .1% chance it was oil related, I'd just use something else. Could you imagine if you threw another rod using that oil? Safe to say I don't think the oil had anything to do with that, but not real sure my opinion should matter.