Synthetic Oil

[Treburkulosis]

That's one of those things, regardless of the cause I wouldn't run that oil again if it were me. Even though there is less then a .1% chance it was oil related, I'd just use something else. Could you imagine if you threw another rod using that oil? Safe to say I don't think the oil had anything to do with that, but not real sure my opinion should matter.

I agree, but the pump was pumping and at optimal output. It was just one of those weird things. Every time I read Redline I cringe because it reminds of this engine and redline sat right next to AMSOIL. I tend to play it safe when it comes to oils. I run what works and is best for my engine. My better judgement told me not to do it lol.

 

[Burla]

I do think redline is built for that, full of stuff that most other oil manu's think is overkill.

 

[Treburkulosis]

I do think redline is built for that, full of stuff that most other oil manu's think is overkill.

Hearing all the talk and reviews even threw Blackstone I believe in it. I will look into it when I get my Challenger next year. Ill stick with Castrol Edge for it now.

 

[Rod Knock]

@Burla and @phoenixgenesys The only reason why I ask, is because I got suckered into buying AMSOIL for a 331 stroker Ford motor. It was on oil change #3. I went with that and a wix filter. I made it about 1000 miles into it and threw a rod. Wasn't really being hard on it. It was just a car show car. Oil pressure on a mechanical gauge red 60 going down the road warm, 40 idle warm. Anyways had the motor torn down by my builder and even though I had a melling high flow pump in it some how it starved the engine. This was 15 years ago. About the time Redline and Amsoil became popular. The pump was fine it was the oil. Every stroker I had built ran 15w50 in it, so that's what I ran with it. I basically had to eat the motor rebuild. Went back to Mobil 1 back you could still get the original stuff and never another issue. Now as we have long sense debated, I would not put Mobil 1 in my Hemi. Pup is very good and I am not a pennzoil guy at all. I run Castrol Edge and Puraltor boss filter and never one ounce of issues.

I also believe in "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

If PUP works for you keep using it. Use the bigger filter if you want better lubrication for the top part of your motor and that's about it. It won't void the warranty either. You would do your HEMI a favor if you went to a 180F thermostat. It would do more for your motor than switching to any kind of motor oil. Doing a grille shutter delete also helps. I remove 2/3rds of the shutters and now the only time I see 200F or 210F is when I tow a load and step on it.

The problem with AMSOIL and Red Line is that their motor oils have no approvals. They don't put them through engine sequencing. Formulating motor oils is much more difficult than transmission fluid or gear oil.

Let's take Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. It's the factory fill for the Nissan GTR, Porsche, and other high horsepower turbocharged vehicles. It goes through a rigorous approval process. It carries a Porsche A40 approval that's more expensive to get than a nice house, and you have to re-do it every time you change the formulation. The A40 is also tested with roller lifters and Porsche V8 engines. These oils need a NOACK of <10%. PUP SRT 0W-40 has around 13% and it never had to pass any engine sequencing other than Chrysler's. Never mind Red Line or AMSOIL. I like oils that carry multiple certifications and approvals. I am not a fan of "meets and exceeds."

As @Burla stated, he wouldn't use Red Line Oi if it wasn't for the tick. Red Line is track oil, pure and simple. AMSOIL makes good quality products, however, if they screw something up we're paying for it. What if the ZDDP amount was off in the AMSOIL you used? Or if it was a bad batch? Engines don't randomly throw a rod, but when they do, it's usually due to a lack of lubrication. It starts with a spun bearing that hugs the crank until the rod can no longer move on it and that's it. I've seen it happen on Hyundai engines more than once due to fuel dillution.

Anyway, if PUP works for you, stick to it. There are at least 2 to 3 reliability mods that you can do to your truck to keep it running for a long time without touching the oil.

 

[tjfdesmo]

I'll chime in on my former hard working 2500 6.4. What's hard working? How about going across the scales at 23,160 combined?

Always ran SRT filter. Ticked on PUP 0W40, sounded like a worn out thrashing machine on Amsoil SS 0W40(AZF), was quiet for a while(4-5K)on RL 0W40, and was quiet for 7K plus OCI's on RL 5W40. I did not try RL5W30, but that may also be a cure. My buddy has a 2019 6.4 and has been sticking to the RL5W40 with SRT filter for a bit over 40K miles now, his Hemi is happy on it.

 

[Rod Knock]

I'll chime in on my former hard working 2500 6.4. What's hard working? How about going across the scales at 23,160 combined?

Always ran SRT filter. Ticked on PUP 0W40, sounded like a worn out thrashing machine on Amsoil SS 0W40(AZF), was quiet for a while(4-5K)on RL 0W40, and was quiet for 7K plus OCI's on RL 5W40. I did not try RL5W30, but they may also be a cure. My buddy has a 2019 6.4 and has been sticking to the RL5W40 with SRT filter for a bit over 40K miles now, his Hemi is happy on it.

So much AMSOIL's quality I guess. The HEMIs run too hot from the factory, and once the oil is cooked through several cycles, it's done for. Red Line is made to handle extreme temperatures.

 

[Treburkulosis]

I also believe in "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

If PUP works for you keep using it. Use the bigger filter if you want better lubrication for the top part of your motor and that's about it. It won't void the warranty either. You would do your HEMI a favor if you went to a 180F thermostat. It would do more for your motor than switching to any kind of motor oil. Doing a grille shutter delete also helps. I remove 2/3rds of the shutters and now the only time I see 200F or 210F is when I tow a load and step on it.

The problem with AMSOIL and Red Line is that their motor oils have no approvals. They don't put them through engine sequencing. Formulating motor oils is much more difficult than transmission fluid or gear oil.

Let's take Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. It's the factory fill for the Nissan GTR, Porsche, and other high horsepower turbocharged vehicles. It goes through a rigorous approval process. It carries a Porsche A40 approval that's more expensive to get than a nice house, and you have to re-do it every time you change the formulation. The A40 is also tested with roller lifters and Porsche V8 engines. These oils need a NOACK of <10%. PUP SRT 0W-40 has around 13% and it never had to pass any engine sequencing other than Chrysler's. Never mind Red Line or AMSOIL. I like oils that carry multiple certifications and approvals. I am not a fan of "meets and exceeds."

As @Burla stated, he wouldn't use Red Line Oi if it wasn't for the tick. Red Line is track oil, pure and simple. AMSOIL makes good quality products, however, if they screw something up we're paying for it. What if the ZDDP amount was off in the AMSOIL you used? Or if it was a bad batch? Engines don't randomly throw a rod, but when they do, it's usually due to a lack of lubrication. It starts with a spun bearing that hugs the crank until the rod can no longer move on it and that's it. I've seen it happen on Hyundai engines more than once due to fuel dillution.

Anyway, if PUP works for you, stick to it. There are at least 2 to 3 reliability mods that you can do to your truck to keep it running for a long time without touching the oil.

I think you really nailed it here. I don't have the grill shutter so I am lucky and about 2 months ago when I flushed the coolant I added a 180 T stat. I still need to do the V6 electric fan mod to mine. I unknowingly ran Mobil 1 in my truck first round. Immediate tick. I ran sea foam through the motor and dumped it. Went to Castrol Edge and never looked back. No tick no noise. Its a very quiet engine. I went with what I knew vs knowing what spec and what it needed. I am just glad I found this forum early on and all of the knowledge that I have learned. You guys are awesome!

 

[Rod Knock]

I think you really nailed it here. I don't have the grill shutter so I am lucky and about 2 months ago when I flushed the coolant I added a 180 T stat. I still need to do the V6 electric fan mod to mine. I unknowingly ran Mobil 1 in my truck first round. Immediate tick. I ran sea foam through the motor and dumped it. Went to Castrol Edge and never looked back. No tick no noise. Its a very quiet engine. I went with what I knew vs knowing what spec and what it needed. I am just glad I found this forum early on and all of the knowledge that I have learned. You guys are awesome!

I think you're onto something here. What kind of Castrol EDGE was it? Castrol uses higher density base oils than Mobil 1. I guess Mobil 1 is after getting that every MPG out of the motor.

 

[Treburkulosis]

I run 5w20 5.7 hemi. I ran 5w20 Mobil 1. Milage is about the same maybe slightly better 1-2 mpg in favor of edge. I get around 16 mixed driving. My dad always like Castrol. He said the same thing with the higher density.

 

[Burla]

I'll chime in on my former hard working 2500 6.4. What's hard working? How about going across the scales at 23,160 combined?

Always ran SRT filter. Ticked on PUP 0W40, sounded like a worn out thrashing machine on Amsoil SS 0W40(AZF), was quiet for a while(4-5K)on RL 0W40, and was quiet for 7K plus OCI's on RL 5W40. I did not try RL5W30, but that may also be a cure. My buddy has a 2019 6.4 and has been sticking to the RL5W40 with SRT filter for a bit over 40K miles now, his Hemi is happy on it.

Maybe I forgot you used 0w40 redline as well, so two guys that preferred 5w40 to the 0w40 in that brand.

 

[Treburkulosis]

I am at almost 80k miles on Castrol Edge and Boss filter.

 

[Rod Knock]

I am at almost 80k miles on Castrol Edge and Boss filter.

Nice. I tried Castrol EDGE EP 5W-20 once in the HEMI with the small BOSS filter. It ran fine, except that it ticked for a bit if I didn't start the engine for a couple of days. Then I switched to my current setup that's in my signature and never had a tick, tap, or any other noise ever again, and it's been about 13K~14K miles since I switched. That being said, Mobil 1 isn't the best or the greatest.

My dad was also a Castrol guy, probably because he had a bunch of Euro cars. It always worked for him.

 

[Treburkulosis]

Nice. I tried Castrol EDGE EP 5W-20 once in the HEMI with the small BOSS filter. It ran fine, except that it ticked for a bit if I didn't start the engine for a couple of days. Then I switched to my current setup that's in my signature and never had a tick, tap, or any other noise ever again, and it's been about 13K~14K miles since I switched. That being said, Mobil 1 isn't the best or the greatest.

My dad was also a Castrol guy, probably because he had a bunch of Euro cars. It always worked for him.

I don’t like anything extended performance. I never liked way back in 2002 when Mobil 1 started offering it. It looked like water. Now personally I haven’t ran castrol ep. Mobil I wanted the original bottle same with edge. I run original black bottle edge. I am at 139k great oil pressure truck still has all the power it did when I bought it used in 16 with 60k. Now with the filter. What puraltor boss filter did you use? You said small. I use this one and it’s a big boy.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...9LKDvel2zdTlsYC6efwaAjX-EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Getting back to Castrol it’s a great brand dating back as far as I can remember. I know in the 90s when my dad and I wedged a 428 MCJ motor into his first truck that he found some years later. About 10 years after he sold it, he only ran Castrol 20 w 50 in it. He beat the crap out of that motor. He wasn’t even using synthetic as that was new stuff. Never one issue.

 

[Rod Knock]

@Burla @Hemi395 @Treburkulosis @tjfdesmo and everyone else reading this forum, I have a tiny riddle for you:

Why does Chrysler / RAM recommend 89 octane gas for the 5.7 HEMI when it's not even GDI engines? Its compression ratio doesn't warranty 89 octane gas either. So what's the catch?

 

[Hemi395]

@Burla @Hemi395 @Treburkulosis @tjfdesmo and everyone else reading this forum, I have a tiny riddle for you:

Why does Chrysler / RAM recommend 89 octane gas for the 5.7 HEMI when it's not even GDI engines? Its compression ratio doesn't warranty 89 octane gas either. So what's the catch?

I'm guessing the timing in the factory tune is a bit on the hot side necessitating the 89 octane??

 

[Rod Knock]

I don’t like anything extended performance. I never liked way back in 2002 when Mobil 1 started offering it. It looked like water. Now personally I haven’t ran castrol ep. Mobil I wanted the original bottle same with edge. I run original black bottle edge. I am at 139k great oil pressure truck still has all the power it did when I bought it used in 16 with 60k. Now with the filter.

I think you got a point there, and maybe I should rethink my use of EP oils. They are lower density and have more antioxidants. They are basically made for extended drain intervals and to provide the best fuel economy. I guess it's because I always looked at EP oils at the "flagship" product. That being said, Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 for example carries an official Daimler MB229.71 approval, which is no small thing, because that approval requires some unreal anti-wear capabilities. At one point I was considering running that in the Sonata.

What puraltor boss filter did you use? You said small. I use this one and it’s a big boy.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...9LKDvel2zdTlsYC6efwaAjX-EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

This is the filter I'm using, and it's pretty damn big and free-flowing, just look at those huge holes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G6FPN36/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Getting back to Castrol it’s a great brand dating back as far as I can remember. I know in the 90s when my dad and I wedged a 428 MCJ motor into his first truck that he found some years later. About 10 years after he sold it, he only ran Castrol 20 w 50 in it. He beat the crap out of that motor. He wasn’t even using synthetic as that was new stuff. Never one issue.

I used to run conventional Castrol 20W-50 in my 1997 Mitsubishi Galant because I got it in 2004 with 80,000 miles and lots of abuse. It ran really well for me.

 

[Treburkulosis]

@Burla @Hemi395 @Treburkulosis @tjfdesmo and everyone else reading this forum, I have a tiny riddle for you:

Why does Chrysler / RAM recommend 89 octane gas for the 5.7 HEMI when it's not even GDI engines? Its compression ratio doesn't warranty 89 octane gas either. So what's the catch?

I run E15 88 octane. Not one issue. No knock. Sounds like they are in the pocket of the epa. Ill admit 87 sucks with the 5.7.

 

[Burla]

just how they tuned it. Some guys tune it down to 87, some tune it up to 91. other then that just another fca bad decision imo. my truck runs out of it's mind on 91 and factory tune, runs like hell on 87, noticeable difference.

 

[tjfdesmo]

@Burla @Hemi395 @Treburkulosis @tjfdesmo and everyone else reading this forum, I have a tiny riddle for you:

Why does Chrysler / RAM recommend 89 octane gas for the 5.7 HEMI when it's not even GDI engines? Its compression ratio doesn't warranty 89 octane gas either. So what's the catch?

I don't have an answer, but there is more to octane requirement than just static compression ratio. Limitations in combustion chamber design, swirl, and other factors come into play. I know, despite folks saying otherwise, my 6.4 ran just fine on 87.

 

[Burla]

I ran my truck for years on 87 before I even knew it was 89, lol. When I put 91, it was almost like I put a turbo on it. I'd probably use 89, but costco doesn't have it and everyone else is like 40 cents a gallon different. I run 91 costco top tier cheaper then any top tier local 87. The truck just had a hesitation on 87, when i found out thanks to RF it should have been on 89.