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Do you have a list of what parts they installed? I'd like to see a whole break down and see if anything sticks out to anyone here.@G-Ride990
@OcallyRamFam
I just got off the phone with Arizona Engine Rebuilding 8/16/22 and basically the hole bottom end of that motor is (F) Ducked. The crank shaft is toast along with 4 connecting rods and vvt solenoid and slew of other parts. There was so much metal in the motor the oil pickup was clogged. Dave said he has no idea how that happen he started to try and blame the aftermarket cam I brought from green racing saying how the high spring tension on the lifters can cause excessive heat... I then asked him how that would affect the crankshaft and connecting rods. he had no answer then moved the conversation to another topic. So basically from what i gather he need to talk John who i think is the owner for they want to handle this. I have a feeling they are going to try to get me to pay for this at least a portion.
I am sure it goes without saying but I do not want to deal with there BS, If they didnt feel comfortable installing an aftermarket cam, lifters, and springs. they should of told me when I told them about it. They follow the instruction on how to setup the spring tension. But didn't follow the instruction for first start up. The instruction the cam came with said Run for 30 min at 2k to 2.5k rpms then dump oil. They ran it for an hour at idle and I don't remember if they said they dumped the oil. I just want my truck done and done right. Granted i don't know much about building motors, but I am not doing anything exotic or out of the box. Its a HL cam, its not like I asking them to put a turbo with a nitrous system.
Thanks for letting me vent I am so pissed off and frustrated and I have this gut feeling that it's going to get worse before its gets better.
+1 on this.OMG I too would be PO'ed, I do not understand how they can not follow cam break in directions, that is a very important thing to due along with oil change if that is what the cam manufacture requires.. Do let us know how this goes... IMHO you should not have to pay them one dime for them to make it right including getting the exact replacement parts you gave to them to install...
It's a lot easier to "idle" for an hour or so, versus trying to hold an RPM in a vehicle with "drive by wire". Also a lot cheaper if they are paying for the gas used during the break-in, and "customer service" right now, by not making you pay for a lot of gas, as they hold the truck at higher RPM...@Crooks1130 I thought that was weird to about the idle times on startup. My thought process was well these guys are the experts they rebuild engine all day its all they do. so the probably know what they are talking about.
Shouldn't we avoid excessive idling for the whole life? (rofl)I’m not sure if you could call oil pump being the issue because the sump tube was full of debris and the debris made it to the top of the engine and into the vvt solenoid.
Another thing that baffles me is the fact they rebuilt the engine and just let it idle. That’s a red flag because a fresh engine build is supposed to idle for a very short time to make sure everything is functioning correctly, then cycled between 2000-2500rpm to seat the rings. All of the research I did when doing my rebuilds says that even during the 500mike break in, avoid excessive idling.
unless you’re using cast iron You don’t really need to seat the rings browse a catalog see what’s applicable and available I believe its the type of rings the height of the ring lands on the pistons and the cylinder bore finish that dictate the break inI’m not sure if you could call oil pump being the issue because the sump tube was full of debris and the debris made it to the top of the engine and into the vvt solenoid.
Another thing that baffles me is the fact they rebuilt the engine and just let it idle. That’s a red flag because a fresh engine build is supposed to idle for a very short time to make sure everything is functioning correctly, then cycled between 2000-2500rpm to seat the rings. All of the research I did when doing my rebuilds says that even during the 500mike break in, avoid excessive idling.
Yes we should avoid excessive idling, but during a break in the ring seat process needs different ranges of RPM. Not sitting for 5-10 minutes at idle.It's a lot easier to "idle" for an hour or so, versus trying to hold an RPM in a vehicle with "drive by wire". Also a lot cheaper if they are paying for the gas used during the break-in, and "customer service" right now, by not making you pay for a lot of gas, as they hold the truck at higher RPM...
Shouldn't we avoid excessive idling for the whole life? (rofl)
I meant they can't just throw a C Clamp on the throttle line, and walk away for a bit.Yes we should avoid excessive idling, but during a break in the ring seat process needs different ranges of RPM. Not sitting for 5-10 minutes at idle.
As far as the drive by wire…..all 3 times I have had zero issue with holding rpm between 2000-2500. It’s literally just a few minutes that you work it around at most, then go drive. I have a fully built 6.4 392 with 4.56 gears and while running 80mph I’m well over 2200 rpm and getting around 18mpg. Fuel cost would be less than $10 and makes zero sense for a budget cut in a rebuild worth thousands.
I dont see how the Cam bearing can affect the connecting rods bearing and crankshaft journals?Is it possible the cam bearing tolerance was too tight with that aftermarket cam, causing the bearing Depree to get spread throughout the engine.
The problem with OE bearings as replacements in rebuilds is they aren’t oversized OEM offer factory tolerances and that’s it.Is it possible the cam bearing tolerance was too tight with that aftermarket cam, causing the bearing Depree to get spread throughout the engine.