Synthetic Filter Options for RFE transmsions....

JasonK94Z said:

I’m also concerned if a quick relearn would need to be done after these upgrades I listed.
I’m at 62k miles on mine, and planning on finally changing my fluid.


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As far as I know anytime you disconnect the electrical connector from the solenoid pack you should do a quicklearn...

brad_12 said:

Curious on which way everybody is going on the blue loctite. Apply to transmission side and filter side or one and not the other?

Last couple posts looks like one person did only transmission side and another person did only filter side if I'm reading them correctly.

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When I did mine on my 11 I did loctite on the transmission side not on the filter.



In addition I installed this pan

https://www.xtremediesel.com/mag-hy...ODb9BD04BzcCVGMILTXJpqYjJszYodT4aAvjREALw_wcB

Future changes are going to be less messy

brad_12 said:

Curious on which way everybody is going on the blue loctite. Apply to transmission side and filter side or one and not the other?

Last couple posts looks like one person did only transmission side and another person did only filter side if I'm reading them correctly.

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I may have posted this already

I put it on the threads that go into the filter....and did NOT put it on the trans side of the thread adapter. so i KNOW the metal threads will come out of the transmission when i am ready for a filter change. I DO NOT WANT the metal thread adapter to gull the aluminum threads of the transmission housing. That would be a nightmare.

I want the filter and metal thead adapter to COME OUT.


Sent while firmly grasping my Redline lubed Ram [emoji231]

I see form this thread that is Kyle's filter there, RP upgraded that thing way more then the old model I have. Kyle, you leave the paint on?

@U&A

U&A said:

RP 10-2867 in a 66rfe for 2 years. 1 fluid change was done one year into it. I definitely will continue to use this filter as a spin on in my trans. Also the metal coupler worked really well. It was still plenty tight and required a filter wrench to get it off. But it was not stuck on at all.
I use blue loctite on the side of the threads that go into the filter but NOT on the side that goes in the trans. Did about 3/4- 7/8 of a turn after contact.

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Update we have the first synthetic filter users start their oil changes after first using synthetic filters, so the results are coming in. Thanks to Kyle for documenting the results. All is good with this filter option, get a metal thread and a synthetic filter if you havent yet, especially guys on a long interval. Those oem trans filters are stiff as carboard in short order.

*See Kyles youtube in quote above..

what do you guys use to remove the coating on the filters? thats the only thing holding me back on using one of these filters.

Wire brush and drill attachment. I think Kyle uses a grinder, something only possible with a thick shell like the RP.

Burla said:

Wire brush and drill attachment. I think Kyle uses a grinder, something only possible with a thick shell like the RP.

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you just taping the open end. im sure that makes a lot of dust.

I use the threads to lock another filter together and the seal rings match up so no dust can enter filter, then I stick the other filter in a vice. Maybe I do this week with a pic if I can find my wire scrubber. I know Kyle had some pics when he did as well, maybe syn thread?

ripping r said:

you just taping the open end. im sure that makes a lot of dust.

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I did same as Burla mentioned, didn't take long at all to knock the paint off. Then wiped filter clean with Brake Kleen.

Thanks Smoothee, no reason for me to take pics now, that is it.

smoothee said:

I did same as Burla mentioned, didn't take long at all to knock the paint off. Then wiped filter clean with Brake Kleen.

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well ill do that after i get the right nipple for it and do two at once. that should last me for a while.

Not sure where I just posted this same question - maybe in The Oil Filter Thread? I hate double-posting for the same discussion.

Anyway, is there any concern with putting a raw steel canister in there? Yeah, yeah, there's raw steel and cast iron in an engine crankcase, but it's not a sensitive servo hydraulic system (VVT & MDS excepted) subject to 50,000 mile OCI, either. Could the raw filter case produce rust shavings if left in too long? I mean, there's a reason why Chrysler has stainless steel filter cases for the OEM filter, right? Or is it just ignorance in not having to test raw steel or painted steel to see if they don't put gunk into the transmission?

Kyle just posted the youtube after two years in, no rust. Considering he is in rust belt/ snow belt, I'm pretty sure if it was gonna rust you would have seen something.

For us broffesors only.

Interesting if other filters would rust, but we know royal purple RP 10-2867 is good.

Mule19 said:

Dorman 265-870 Transmission Pan... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZ6F5ZK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

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Will this work on a 65rfe? Sorry I’m a bit of a NOOB! Thanks!

JJPMustang said:

Will this work on a 65rfe? Sorry I’m a bit of a NOOB! Thanks!

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Yes will fit the RFE transmissions

finally the market if flooded with rfe metal thread upgrades, amazon and ebay, especially ebay tons of these available at lowest prices seen for single units.

Hey - getting around to another RFE upgrade (66RFE), 1st thing I did was change the oil and filters @ 35k miles when I saw how hot the oil got, then got rid of the thermostat (bypass) after finding out about that. Not knowing any better at the time, I refilled with MOPAR+4 and changed with OEM filters, and a Dorman oil pan with drain plug.

Ok, a lot smarter now thanks to you guys. Was gonna replace valve body, but already tuned, so forget that.

Next up, now that I know better I want to dump the MOPAR+4 oil and get some good Red Line +C ATF in it. I read about the great canister filter upgrade and paint removal a while back in this thread. Superb idea, I think I'll go with the higher flow Wix XP (less efficient) filter now that trans is completely broken in and running cool = less gear shavings and oil breakdown products. Lord knows the OEM paper filter must have junk efficiency and flow.

Also gonna try the Lube Locker oil pan gasket instead of RTV. Hoping it's easier and cleaner.

Now on to what I though would be the final simple upgrade - getting a steel pipe nipple adapter instead of the cheesy, cheap plastic OEM nipple.

Why are there so many out there on the interweb? I mean, all that's needed is threads to match, and a tightening mechanism, be it external weld nut or internal hex, plus some loctite. I read reviews about threads loosening, leaking fittings, wtaf?

Imma try the chemical paint dissolving route instead of mechanical paint removal. If I remember, I'll report back how it works.

HEMIMANN said:

Imma try the chemical paint dissolving route instead of mechanical paint removal. If I remember, I'll report back how it works.

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I guess you didn't remember, year later hahaha