2004 Ram 2500 5.7 I Need Some Help Running Rich B1 Out Of Ideas.

[jws123]

I have a 2004 ram 2500 5.7 with only 80k orig miles on it she has sat most of its life It is a former plow truck. I got a deal on it because no one can figure this truck out I am a bit stumped myself. Most of the time when it is cold It will run ok as it heats up it gets worse and worse... til it misfires ect she will rev up and down even under load. I am getting bank 1 RICH and bank 2 sensor 2 02 sensor DTC. I am at a bit of a loss here I am open to all suggestions List below of what I have replaced. I do admit I fired the parts cannon after getting fed up ahahah.

New parts.
-----------------
Throttle body.
B1 S1 02 sensor.
NEW plugs NEW coils
New Injectors Kept old ones Clearly not the issue
New fuse box as the old one had some signs of damage.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

How's your fuel pump pressure, check it at the fuel rail, everything W/ Cam and lifters are good, I know you've checked, Is the fuse box the TIPM? how is the fuel pump relay in the TIPM, do the relay bypass and see if it helps?

 

[jws123]

I mean id assume the fuel relay is good since shes running and will stay running. This doesnt really use a TIPM per say its closer to a regular fuse box. I am waiting on a new tester to show up for the pressure It is just odd its only 1 bank running rich been that way since i got it. The compression checks out runs smooth for a few mins til she starts warming up.

 

[Dean2]

Do you have a leak around the intake gasket. Any kind of vacuum leak or air leak will cause rough running as it heats up and it will run very rich as the computer dumps enough fuel to try to get the fuel air ratio back in line.

 

[jws123]

Do you have a leak around the intake gasket. Any kind of vacuum leak or air leak will cause rough running as it heats up and it will run very rich as the computer dumps enough fuel to try to get the fuel air ratio back in line.

Its new gaskets however I will borrow a smoke machine just to test it maybe find a crack or something? The usual spray tests comes up empty. I figured if it was a vacc leak it would be lean? after thinking about it tho that does make sense now possibly why it runs good at first.

 

[jws123]

Well I was outside trying to do another regular vac leak test since its cool outside now and the fuel rail blew its leaking around the port due to rust. While this wont be the issue most likely another annoying thing I have to change. I am just going to pull the manifold and block off the ports smoke the manifold like that since I need a new rail now. If there is a leak in the manifold its going to be a crack or sepration along a seam I cant see.

 

[spoolinlust]

Sticky injector(s)
I had gummed up valves not opening and closing properly causing AFR issues, was 24 ish years ago so I didn't have a scanner.

I bought an 04 not long ago that sat and had similar issues. The filler neck rotted from the inside into the tank and the fuel looked like river water.

The oil looked fine on the dipstick but was so sludged up when I went to change it I had to use a screw driver to break the sludge seal to get the oil to drain.

Turns out it had 3 bent pushrods on the intake side and all that gum slowly bent them and eventually lead to it backfiring so badly it melted the intake ports and blew apart a cat from all the fuel being dumped in.

When you changed the injectors did you take a fuel sample? Could have debris in the tank and just clogs the injectors within moments of running.

 

[spoolinlust]

That's the gas tank

 

[pacofortacos]

If you had a good scanner it's easy to test but you can try this and see what happens.

Do a battery reset to erase the codes and hopefully adaptives.
Unplug bank 1 O2 sensor and leave it unplugged.
Try running it and see if it starts to run worse as it heats up.
It should run fine and not change as it heats up - at least not significantly worse as it heats up.
See what codes it throws - there should be an O2 code for the sensor being unplugged but not a bank 1 Rich code.

If you still get a bank 1 Rich code then it's probably a wiring or computer issue.
If you only get the code for the sensor being sluggish/unplugged then it's probably a leak/engine issue.

 

[pacofortacos]

Bank 2 sensor 2 is a the post Cat converter efficiency O2 sensor and will not affect the running of the truck.
Could be a bad sensor, bad cat or just a side effect of the Bank 1 issue - I wouldn't worry about it until the Bank 1 issue is fixed.
Depends on how many o2 sensors you have - if only 3 then it reads the common cat.
If 4 sensors (2 on each small cat ) then bank 1 shouldn't affect it and it's most likely a bad sensor but could be a bad cat.

 

[jws123]

I wound up finding a small vac leak with the smoke tester Not sure if it was big enough to cause the issue but im waiting for the new fuel rail now. Thanks for all of the other suggestions I will post updates once the new rail is on. This truck has 2 cats on the pass side it all joins together and 4 02 sensors I did notice the cats are after market while i was under there.