2013 1500 5.7 Hemi Engine Oil coolant replacement

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TGrooms

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Got the oil pan plug loose, no water in the oil, loosened the trans cooling line an their it is...
 
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TGrooms

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No oil in the oil pan, coming out of the trans. cooling system
 

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Wild one

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No oil in the oil pan, coming out of the trans. cooling system
If it's coming from the transmission,odds are the TMU/thermal management unit on the side of the transmission has developed a leak,not very common,but also not unheard of. If that's the case you'll want to do several pan drops and fluid swaps on the transmission ,other wise you'll be putting a transmission in the truck in very short order.Coolant will kill a transmission in a matter of miles.If you're bucks down you can delete that heat exchanger off the side of the transmission,and get rid of the heater hoses feeding coolant to it. Read through this thread to see how to delete the heat exchanger on the side of the transmission.The cars and heavy duty trucks don't use coolant to heat the transmission fluid,only the 1500's use coolant to heat the transmission fluid,so it's not exactly something you need

 

Ken226

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No oil in the oil pan, coming out of the trans. cooling system

Yea, sounds like you may of got lucky.

Even if the transmission is toast, used 8 speed transmissions are a dime a dozen compared to repairing/replacing a Hemi that has warped heads.

With some luck, a few fluid swaps to clean out the gunk may have it back on the road.
 
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TGrooms

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Should i change the TMU out or just do the flush? if so is there a video showing how to do it?
 

Wild one

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Should i change the TMU out or just do the flush? if so is there a video showing how to do it?
If it was my truck,i'd get rid of the heat exchanger/TMU,it's not really something you need,and either get rid of the hoses feeding coolant to it,or at the very least tie them together,and then do several pan drops and fluid changes on the transmission.While you have the cooler lines split up by the rad,use about 20 to 25 psi of air to blow out the cooler as much as possible. If you read that thread,it shows you how to delete the TMU,and i also have a pic of the looped coolant hoses,before i got around to deleting them and converting back to the earlier 5/6 speed heater hose set-up that also bypass the 3 way valve on the passengers side frame rail,under the air box. You can get rid of the heater hoses that feed the 3 way valve,just leave the valve in place and plugged in,and it won't throw any codes,but all the hoses feeding it,and feeding from it to the transmission can be deleted,the steel lines will have to be cut if you want to remove them with the transmission in place,but you can leave them,if you don't feel like cutting them to remove them.
These are all the lines and hoses you can remove if you go back to the earlier molded heater hose set-up.
 

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TGrooms

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Hey guys,
Got another question, & no trucks not running yet, i do have the block & all of the lines flushed out just gotta flush the transmission. Times' not on my side with how i work.

When I'm driving the truck an the speed gets between 35-40 or 55-60 mph if i don't speed it up or slow it down the anti traction light comes on an it wont shift. Cut the truck off an crank it right back up an I'm good to go until..... I've changed out the cam shaft positioner behind the water pump 2 times, didn't fix the problem, any suggestions?
 

Brrielly

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"When I'm driving the truck an the speed gets between 35-40 or 55-60 mph if i don't speed it up or slow it down the anti traction light comes on an it wont shift. Cut the truck off an crank it right back up an I'm good to go until..... I've changed out the cam shaft positioner behind the water pump 2 times, didn't fix the problem, any suggestions?"

Sounds like a wheel sensor.
 
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