2013 Subwoofer and custom fiberglass box.

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Power247

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yeah I read your build and I am gonna mirror a lot of the steps you took. Great write up by the way. Where did you buy your resin and fiberglass from? I assume fiberglass is also referred to as kitty hair, is that correct?

I actually bought my supplies from another RF member but they came from US Composites. Very good quality stuff and reasonable prices even with paying for shipping.

Not really sure because honestly I am not familiar the term 'kitty hair'... but I suspect it is referring to the fiberglass chop mat as there is a resemblance.

***Sorry for the hijack op...

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WhiteExpress

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Kitty Hair is not Fiberglass. It's bondo with fiberglass in it.
Different applications.

RamFlava recommended US Composites to me, I used them for my enclosure and sold the remaining supplies I had to Power247 for his build. US Composites appears to be a very reputable source from many threads I've found on the nets.
 

dedogg

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thanks guys. I looked through their website I guess I want to get the epoxy resin and fiberglass mat, correct? Sorry for all the questions.
 

dedogg

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I have another question, why are you guys using 3 layers of 1/2 mdf?
 

WhiteExpress

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I have another question, why are you guys using 3 layers of 1/2 mdf?

The bottom - ring which the glass attaches to
The middle - the piece the sub bolts to
The top - trim ring, just because I can, serves zero actual purpose.
 

Power247

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I have another question, why are you guys using 3 layers of 1/2 mdf?



The bottom - ring which the glass attaches to
The middle - the piece the sub bolts to
The top - trim ring, just because I can, serves zero actual purpose.

Well, the trim ring is good to help protect the sub from the seat when the seats are down. I used 3\4" MDF for my build... 1\2" would probably work but is much harder to come by around here.


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The trim ring was a great idea. I wish I had though about it.

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Bkhsvt

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You have the main power hooked up after the factory fuse on the battery....if that shorts out and doesn't blow the audio fuse first your truck won't be starting....I would move that to straight off the batt terminal. And obviously keep your inline fuse within a few inches from the battery.....
 
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You have the main power hooked up after the factory fuse on the battery....if that shorts out and doesn't blow the audio fuse first your truck won't be starting....I would move that to straight off the batt terminal. And obviously keep your inline fuse within a few inches from the battery.....

PM'd you. Thanks
 
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For those who might have hooked up to the battery in the same way I did. I believe this is what he is talking about.
IMG_0922_zps6200014c.jpg

I'm waiting for his response, but I believe it is a simple fix. I'll probably move the power wire to the main terminal of the battery instead of piggybacking it off the factory hook up.
 

Power247

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That is a great catch!! The battery terminals on the diesels are different but I had to go double check my truck just in case :)

and yes, moving your ring terminal to the side of the terminal will be the best place to draw power for the amps.
 

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I'm looking at doing a similar set up in my 2014 with the factory sub also. I will be using an LC2i loc. Just wondered which colours you hooked up to for the factory sub plug? I saw you had the wire taps on but never specified which ones you hooked to which. Thanks
 

Auguste

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New to audio electronics . . . a few questions for the OP:

1. What does LOC mean?

2. Did you install an amp just for the sub-woofers or did you replace the factory amp?

3. If you installed an amp for your subs, did you draw your signal from the wiring harness at some spot from between the receiver and the amp? If not, where did you get the signal?

Thanks for helping an audio newbie :)
 

Power247

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New to audio electronics . . . a few questions for the OP:

1. What does LOC mean?

2. Did you install an amp just for the sub-woofers or did you replace the factory amp?

3. If you installed an amp for your subs, did you draw your signal from the wiring harness at some spot from between the receiver and the amp? If not, where did you get the signal?

Thanks for helping an audio newbie :)

Welcome to the forum!!! I'm not the OP but I can answer your questions...

1. LOC = Line Output Converter Can range anywhere from $15 to $500+ depending what you are trying to do. If just adding a sub amp you can skip the LOC if your amp has speaker/line/high level inputs.

2. Can't remember specifically the route he went but most of us with the 'premium system' just added the amp for the sub and left the factory amp to drive the rest of the speakers.

3. The easiest place to tap for signal is the factory sub wires since they are already routed to the back of the truck. This is what I did. It definitely works but the signal seems distorted at times due to the sound processing that happens in the factory amp. Some have tapped the rear door speakers and seem to be report decent results.

Hope this helps.
 

Ruffrider13

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Welcome to the forum!!! I'm not the OP but I can answer your questions...

1. LOC = Line Output Converter Can range anywhere from $15 to $500+ depending what you are trying to do. If just adding a sub amp you can skip the LOC if your amp has speaker/line/high level inputs.

2. Can't remember specifically the route he went but most of us with the 'premium system' just added the amp for the sub and left the factory amp to drive the rest of the speakers.

3. The easiest place to tap for signal is the factory sub wires since they are already routed to the back of the truck. This is what I did. It definitely works but the signal seems distorted at times due to the sound processing that happens in the factory amp. Some have tapped the rear door speakers and seem to be report decent results.

Hope this helps.

Do you remember which color wires you tapped into on the factory sub plug?
 

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