38 psi hot idle is good mine is usually30-35
Somewhere around 45-50 psi is what I like
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38 psi hot idle is good mine is usually30-35
Reduce the oil change interval to what? He's doing them ever 3000-4400miles. And was listening to the oil life reminder in the truck. On my '12 I find the oil life minder is fairly adaptive, did 7000+ miles mostly highway on cruise control before it binged and other times int he winter with a lot of idling it's binging after 2400miles. Or are you thinking reducing it as a result of this "issue" not in general?I’d reduce the oil change intervals and add Lucas synthetic additive too. Sounds like it’s scored and hopefully better lubricants might postpone the inevitable.The oil pressure isn’t bad considering.
When I changed my timing chain and oil pump I did the first two at 100 miles each. After things in the oil filter looked better I even swapped out oil filters in between oil changes.Just me I guess,but the in between filter change is what I do in the rare case vacation time is going to overlap my normal 3k change. It means “minimum” cutting open and inspecting your filter.Reduce the oil change interval to what? He's doing them ever 3000-4400miles. And was listening to the oil life reminder in the truck. On my '12 I find the oil life minder is fairly adaptive, did 7000+ miles mostly highway on cruise control before it binged and other times int he winter with a lot of idling it's binging after 2400miles. Or are you thinking reducing it as a result of this "issue" not in general?





What in the holy he** is that item?I pulled this out of my oil pan and smaller particles after I did the chain ,oil pump with pan off and cleaned. Lots of oil changes after I saw that.View attachment 561591
Man!...bringing up that VVT item is a real coincidence on my end...several months ago i got a code crank/cam out of sync...my research led to that VVT item...old 2010 era had plastic screen version that I guess dry rotted more or less,clogged and messed everything up...few u-tube vids and i decided i didnt want to tackle this job and had the dealer do it..couple hours later and I'm like wtf that was quick ,i shoulda did it myself...new screen is apparently a metal upgrade...weird thing is since the fix...my dam idle is now at like 600 when previous was over 700....not happy with that part....You could pull the intake manifold,it's pretty easy to remove,then check the screen on the VVT solenoid for metal.It's the solenoid at the front of the engine,the other 4 solenoids in the valley are the MDS solenoids.If the VVT screen is covered in metal fillings,the engine could be toast,not always,but Ma Mopar reconmends a new engine if the screen is full of shiny stuff.
I'd do that first,as the intake is easier to remove then the oil pan on a 4X4
Pulling the intake on a hemi is pretty easy,the only thing that might give you static is the hose on the back of the manifold that feeds vacumn to the brake booster,but i usually remove the hose at the booster,as twisting it off the manifolds fitting isn't all that easy,other then that a 5/16 or 8mm socket and 14 mm socket are all you needWhat in the holy he** is that item?
Man!...bringing up that VVT item is a real coincidence on my end...several months ago i got a code crank/cam out of sync...my research led to that VVT item...old 2010 era had plastic screen version that I guess dry rotted more or less,clogged and messed everything up...few u-tube vids and i decided i didnt want to tackle this job and had the dealer do it..couple hours later and I'm like wtf that was quick ,i shoulda did it myself...new screen is apparently a metal upgrade...weird thing is since the fix...my dam idle is now at like 600 when previous was over 700....not happy with that part....
Also for the OP...my hot idle has always been 28-34psi...so im ok with that