2015 Ram chirping type intermittent noise behind engine

[Jeepwalker]

If you can tent-off the valley, get an oversized jam nut (they're half as thick as a regular nut) at the hardware store. Or use a regular nut. Then weld from the broken bolt center to the nut. Then remove the nut (and hence the bolt) with a socket. Boom, it's that easy! Again, you'll want to tent the area off real well.

Or you could drill out and hold a shop vac hose near the bolt to suck up the shavings (also tent off the valley). Use extractor as you were thinking.

Either way will work probably just as quick.

 

[AncientSword]

If you can tent-off the valley, get an oversized jam nut (they're half as thick as a regular nut) at the hardware store. Or use a regular nut. Then weld from the broken bolt center to the nut. Then remove the nut (and hence the bolt) with a socket. Boom, it's that easy! Again, you'll want to tent the area off real well.

Or you could drill out and hold a shop vac hose near the bolt to suck up the shavings (also tent off the valley). Use extractor as you were thinking.

Either way will work probably just as quick.

I welded a couple of his broken exhaust manifold bolts and got them out easily but I am hesitant to weld on the block. I guess I could give it a shot. Was thinking about getting a reverse drill bit and see if that might turn it out.

 

[AncientSword]

Ok, the truck finally fired up and we ran it for about 20 minutes. I'm pretty sure his exhaust manifold is leaking on the driver's side, but other than that it seems good. Not a single error code thrown on the scanner. Waiting for it to cool down so we can check the exhaust manifold.

This thing put him through the ringer. Big learning experience for sure. He broke about 6 different bolts, I've never seen anything like it, but he learned a lot. He has probably worked on it for 40 + hours at this point. LOL

 

[AncientSword]

Found a stud on the driver's side that didn't get torqued down all the way. Exhaust is sealed up now.
The engine seems to be running fine, he followed the MMX instructions for breaking in the cam. Only problem is that the battery doesn't seem to be charging right or a cable didn't get put back right. Cable to alternator seems fine but the battery light keeps coming on and causing problems. Guess we need to double check all the connections.

 

[AncientSword]

Charged the battery up fully and now the truck won't start. He seemed to have some fuel pump issues in the past so I'm wondering if that is kicking back in somehow? It's cranking but really trying to fire. I'm not seeing any codes thrown so far though?
Guess I should have ordered a fuel relay bypass already for him.

Weird thing it's doing now it's that when you crank it, the starter keeps cranking unless you turn the key back, it doesn't stop if you just release the key.

 

[jws123]

Charged the battery up fully and now the truck won't start. He seemed to have some fuel pump issues in the past so I'm wondering if that is kicking back in somehow? It's cranking but really trying to fire. I'm not seeing any codes thrown so far though?
Guess I should have ordered a fuel relay bypass already for him.

Weird thing it's doing now it's that when you crank it, the starter keeps cranking unless you turn the key back, it doesn't stop if you just release the key.

It will crank for like 20 seconds or so until it realizes it wont fire thats normal.

 

[AncientSword]

It will crank for like 20 seconds or so until it realizes it wont fire thats normal.

It is throwing a couple codes now, one for the throttle position sensor low circuit and another for not getting a response from the fuel pump control module u0109.

Think the tipm might be bad?

 

[AncientSword]

It will crank for like 20 seconds or so until it realizes it wont fire thats normal.

Ok, so we took his tipm out and pulled all the fuses. We used deoxit and a wire brush to clean everything. We let it dry overnight and the truck started right up this morning and the two codes are gone.

We have an additional problem in that is reading low battery voltage. The alternator is connected and never showed a problem before this job. We are thinking that the ground strap behind the motor might have broken, tearing into that now. It looks like it's missing.

 

[Wild one]

Ok, so we took his tipm out and pulled all the fuses. We used deoxit and a wire brush to clean everything. We let it dry overnight and the truck started right up this morning and the two codes are gone.

We have an additional problem in that is reading low battery voltage. The alternator is connected and never showed a problem before this job. We are thinking that the ground strap behind the motor might have broken, tearing into that now. It looks like it's missing.

Go to your local auto parts store and pick up a cheap battery cable with a lug on both ends,run it from a easy to get at bolt on the engine,to the ground lug behind the battery on the fender,beats trying to fix a bad ground on the back of the engine.

 

[AncientSword]

Yeah, we made up a homemade ground strap. It's throwing those same codes again. It starts up though.

 

[GTyankee]

what are the codes now ?

 

[AncientSword]

U0109
U0222
And it's saying low voltage on the instrument panel

what are the codes now ?

 

[AncientSword]

He drove the truck to AutoZone and they tested the alternator and said it was bad. He is going to order one, no one has one at a decent price locally that we can find.

 

[GTyankee]

U0109 Lost Communication with Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM)

U0109 Lost Communication with Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM)

Symptoms, Causes & Repairs, are found below

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/u0109
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

.......................................................................

U0222 Lost Communication With Door Window Motor A

How to easily diagnose, repair, and symptoms and causes of a U0222 code that indicates a CAN bus communication problem with the Door Window Motor A.

www.obd-codes.com

U0222 Lost Communication With Door Window Motor A

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/u0222
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

 

[AncientSword]

Ok, we're stumped at the moment. The machine at Advance said the alternator was bad so we ordered in an alternator. Just put it in and the truck is still reading low voltage.
If the battery is fully charged it's throwing no codes, but the alternator clearly isn't charging. Any suggestions?

Figured out that his fuseable link was blown.

 

[AncientSword]

The truck is back together and running great. Very proud of my son. I'm impressed when an 18 year old with virtually no experience pulls off a job of this magnitude. Thank goodness for YouTube videos and the guys who share their experiences. He learned a lot going this, but he's glad it's over.

He ended up replacing the cam and lifters, went with an MMX no tune cam and kept his MDS. New water pump and hellcat oil pump were installed along with all new timing components. He ended up putting in a new alternator too. Hoping the truck is good for a long time to come. Presently running PUP 0-40 and Lubeguard in it and Redline in the future.

 

[huntergreen]

The truck is back together and running great. Very proud of my son. I'm impressed when an 18 year old with virtually no experience pulls off a job of this magnitude. Thank goodness for YouTube videos and the guys who share their experiences. He learned a lot going this, but he's glad it's over.

He ended up replacing the cam and lifters, went with an MMX no tune cam and kept his MDS. New water pump and hellcat oil pump were installed along with all new timing components. He ended up putting in a new alternator too. Hoping the truck is good for a long time to come. Presently running PUP 0-40 and Lubeguard in it and Redline in the future.

Redline 5-30 seems to be the redline oil choice.