Screwed up big time.

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zeddy

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So I had an exhaust manifold leak on the passenger side (6.4 hemi). Bought a new manifold from the dealer.

Taking out the bolts were going great. I sprayed penetrating lubricant hours before. All were coming loose breaking free until I get to the last two bolts towards the front of the truck. They spun free and came right out, both studs broken into the head.

Decided to drill out the broken studs out. The bolt that holds the heat shield.

After drilling and using easy out, It wasn’t working. I would go bigger, but tried to stay smaller than the bolt’s diameter. After drilling and trying to use the extractor, I noticed coolant leaking out of the hole. Drilled right into the head. Destroyed a perfectly good truck.

I read I can either 1: tap into that hole, put sealant on the bolt, tighten it up, hope it doesn’t leak, 2: have someone who welds aluminum fill the hole and tap it or 3: get a new cylinder head.

I tow, I go out to the desert, I have 1600 mile road trip coming up for thanksgiving. Will 1 or 2 work just fine or should I replace the head?

I can’t believe how I ruined my truck.

Thanks in advance
 

Hagar1

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So I had an exhaust manifold leak on the passenger side (6.4 hemi). Bought a new manifold from the dealer.

Taking out the bolts were going great. I sprayed penetrating lubricant hours before. All were coming loose breaking free until I get to the last two bolts towards the front of the truck. They spun free and came right out, both studs broken into the head.

Decided to drill out the broken studs out. The bolt that holds the heat shield.

After drilling and using easy out, It wasn’t working. I would go bigger, but tried to stay smaller than the bolt’s diameter. After drilling and trying to use the extractor, I noticed coolant leaking out of the hole. Drilled right into the head. Destroyed a perfectly good truck.

I read I can either 1: tap into that hole, put sealant on the bolt, tighten it up, hope it doesn’t leak, 2: have someone who welds aluminum fill the hole and tap it or 3: get a new cylinder head.

I tow, I go out to the desert, I have 1600 mile road trip coming up for thanksgiving. Will 1 or 2 work just fine or should I replace the head?

I can’t believe how I ruined my truck.

Thanks in advance
I wouldn't risk a repair such as trying to seal, I'd go straight to replacing the head. Probably could get a good one at a recycle yard.
Unless there is a template available, NEVER bring a drill near those cylinder heads. The amount of material between the water jacket and the bolt hole is not very much.
Always weld a nut to the broken bolt and remove it that way. Anyone with a MIG welder should be able to do that.
 

Grams

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New head.
 
OP
OP
zeddy

zeddy

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I honestly thought it was going to more expensive $6k +. Was actually thinking about getting rid of this truck and getting a new one. After seeing the prices of new mega cabs, not happening. I’m not spending $80k+ on a new truck.

Since is leaking coolant everywhere, I plugged the hole with job weld. Just so I can put everything back on and drive it only to the shop. Those last two bolts weren’t even holding in the first place.
 

Sandevino

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New head is the preferred repair if you jacked up the threads.

If you successfully removed the bolt and didn’t booger up the threads, you can fix this with the bolt and thread seal. LA-CO 42019 Slic-Tite thread sealant paste is what I’ve used and recommend. I’ve done this in the past on CAT and PACCAR heads with great success and put 100k miles on the repair.

Drain the coolant, fill with distilled water and make sure it holds pressure. Drain and fill with the good stuff.

Worst case, you have to replace the head and best case you’re out $50.
 

RamDiver

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This video discusses the more common hemi tick, the manifold tick.



This next video contains a pro tip for others experiencing a similar issue to the OP, broken manifold head bolts.

At 10:15, he welds a nub onto the stud that has broken off flush with the head.


.
 

Hagar1

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Got a quote for a new cylinder head. They said 5 1/2 hours labor. $2100. Assuming motor doesn’t need to come out.
The engine DOES NOT need to come out to change a cylinder head! Heads aren't all that expensive if you go to a recycler. Even after you put it through the machine shop, you shouldn't even be close to that number.
Heck if you weren't on the other side of the country and across a Border, I give you one. I've got a pair of them sitting on my garage floor.
 

Hagar1

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Then he doesnt know what hes doing lol i get these bolts out with a welder.
YUP!! That mechanic should have never graduated from the grease rack and washing cars! Good old MIG welder will do it every time. Once the seized bolt is "loosened" by the heat of the welding, they usually come out pretty easy.
 

Wild one

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The engine DOES NOT need to come out to change a cylinder head! Heads aren't all that expensive if you go to a recycler. Even after you put it through the machine shop, you shouldn't even be close to that number.
Heck if you weren't on the other side of the country and across a Border, I give you one. I've got a pair of them sitting on my garage floor.
If they're 5.7 heads,they aren't really compatiable,as they up the compression ratio a bit much to be used with pump gas on a 6.4
 

RamDiver

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One job I always say better off paying dealer, mani bolts.

I don't think I'd trust too many with that task, certainly not a dealer.
Who knows what souvenirs they would leave you with? :rolleyes:

If it were a warranty job, I'd be all over the service manager to be sure a senior tech had the job.

.
 
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