4x4 problem Ram 2013+ 8-speed 44-44 transfer case

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yillbs

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It is a lot like the AWD in the cars for FCA in the fact it allows the front to not be engaged unless slipping is sensed. It is a cool idea for gas mileage but fails in real life. Too much delay and ability to go back to 2WD. It is not like AWD in the sense it is not able to "smartly" apply apply traction from the wheel that slips to the wheel that grips.

to a degree, the ideal was to provide a locking mechanism ( using clutches ), AND provide a 4wd auto system that was on the fly. Which is why it's in the higher trims, and costs more money. It is supposed to be better. I can't really explain why some people can't get it to work as designed, and some can. There is no clear understanding as to why. There are people HERE though that CAN validate what i'm saying, as they already have.
 

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I do actually, that has nothing to do with my opinion, though. The reason for the clutches are due to the 4wd AUTO feature, it wouldn't be effective ( cost wise ) to add in a chain drive, as well as a clutch setup, so, it uses the clutches for both locking/lo and auto. If you put it in 4LO, and you do not have front wheels moving before slippage of the back, you have a faulty unit.

There are also videos of it showing that it DOES work the way I described. The videos of it working far outweigh those of it not working.

Period.



How did they do it in the NV246 it works well and "locks".
 

yillbs

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The fact that every single winter this thread pops back up is hilarious. To whoever said that the 44-44 is a good transfer case back down on that dose of medical marijuana. Gm has made a transfer case work just fine with 4 auto and 4 lock since the early 2000's and ram had the New Venture transfer case with 4 auto and lock without issue as well.
If you look through this thread you can read my saga where I made it way up the chain at chrysler and instead of fixing my truck they paid $3300 to pay off my lease, have me a number to get employee pricing on any chrysler product and a free maxcare warranty instead of replacing the transfer case. Which do you think would have been more cost effective if mine was defective as you say? It is designed to disconnect the clutch at idle and back off the pressure to the clutch as the wheel is turned, that is how it is programmed. To say that people like me had defective transfer cases just shows you don't really understand what is going on and you are trying to say "well mine works so yours should to" when you are the one with the unicorn, not us.

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That's a bit confusing because others are saying they are getting the same results as me. How can others, and myself, and youtube people be getting the results I'm describing, and you say those are the bad ones. So.. the ones that WORK are bad, and the ones that DONT are the working ones? Is that the logic I'm supposed to gather from what you're saying? If so :puke:
 

Hemi395

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How did they do it in the NV246 it works well and "locks".

I'm assuming the clutch just stayed engaged or there was a sleeve that locked the clutch assembly together. Not really sure tbh. All I know is I would bolt one in if I could...
 

yillbs

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Out of curiosity. How many of you have a 2016 / 2017 that's doing this " No wheel lock on front "?
 

loveracing1988

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I actually posted 2, and that's because the number of people ( 3 or 4 ) on youtube are doing it wrong. I've also already explained this. There isn't enough torque to move the front wheels at idle unless you're on very very slippery surfaces, such as snow/ice. I strongly encourage someone here to go out to the snow ( none here ), put it at idle, and have someone record the results. you'll need to rev it up a bit, 1800 should do the trick. Once the engine is WARM, plop it down into neutral, push the transfer case neutral button until it lights up. if you do NOT wait until it lights up, it WILL default to 4AUTO, even if the 4lo / lock is blinking or lit up. Once the transfer case is in neutral, push it over to 4LO, give it some gas, no wheel spin needed, then record it.

It sounds to me like the dealers don't know, so they are merely telling you that's how it works. 99% of those eggheads rely on youtube as much as you guys do.

The problem I'm seeing, and it's extremely hard to tell between the two is people complaining because they THINK it works this way, or, people who are going to be unbiased and provide accurate data. The truck doesn't leave you stranded any more than any other truck. THAT is the ultimate data source.

As for videos, I'll refer back to this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiVFBAb5iCk

This is about as useful as you can show with the truck on ice inclines. The 44-44 system works as designed, and yes, the front wheels often move before the black even detects a slip, as designed.

As for me working for Fiat, yes, I do. However, I'm not here in a work capacity or any other capacity, I'm a RAM owner, just like you guys.
Your video misses the one key test, 4 low. If they put that truck in 4 low you would have seen the same results as my video. Also obviously you didn't watch the same video I did because in both the 4 auto and 4 lock you could see the rear tire spin about a quarter to half of a revolution before the clutch engaged.

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loveracing1988

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It " Locks ", on the 44-44 too. :)
Go put your truck in 4 lock or 4 low in a dry parking lot and record the results and post them here. I will go do the same in my 2500 and post the video and you can see what locked means.

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loveracing1988

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Out of curiosity. How many of you have a 2016 / 2017 that's doing this " No wheel lock on front "?
My Co worker has a 2016 with the 3.6 and the 44-44 and his operates the same as my 2013 did.

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yillbs

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Your video misses the one key test, 4 low. If they put that truck in 4 low you would have seen the same results as my video. Also obviously you didn't watch the same video I did because in both the 4 auto and 4 lock you could see the rear tire spin about a quarter to half of a revolution before the clutch engaged.

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so what's this ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDGSfPxSWeQ
 

loveracing1988

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That is the only video I've seen that it actually works like a normal transfer case in. I think it actually does work like that because he had all of the tires on bare ice and has the horrible sra's for tires, most of the stuff I did had the rears on ice and the fronts on pavement, I do have one video where the front was partially on ice and it kept engaging and disengaging so I think if that video would have been on glare ice it would have shown the same result as the video you posted.

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Hemi395

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Yup the rest either show it doesn't lock or they never go into 4Low. Pretty cut and dry really.
 

yillbs

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That is the only video I've seen that it actually works like a normal transfer case in.

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So just another unicorn? Others in this thread have said they have the same results. Surely they can't all be lying? Why would the ones that have it working like this be the broken ones?
 

loveracing1988

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So just another unicorn? Others in this thread have said they have the same results. Surely they can't all be lying? Why would the ones that have it working like this be the broken ones?
I'm not saying yours is broken, I'm saying that by design it is supposed to work like the one I had did. My theory is the clutch has an air gap spec and the trucks built at the bottom end of it are the ones like yours, the ones that were built in the middle of the spec or looser are like mine.

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black14sport

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So just another unicorn? Others in this thread have said they have the same results. Surely they can't all be lying? Why would the ones that have it working like this be the broken ones?
The ones that work ARE the unicorns. I could power brake mine in 4low on dry pavement and the rear tires would make a complete revolution before the front kicked in. Overt and over and over.....

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yillbs

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The ones that work ARE the unicorns. I could power brake mine in 4low on dry pavement and the rear tires would make a complete revolution before the front kicked in. Overt and over and over.....

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that should NOT be happening, ever.
 

yillbs

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I'm not saying yours is broken, I'm saying that by design it is supposed to work like the one I had did. My theory is the clutch has an air gap spec and the trucks built at the bottom end of it are the ones like yours, the ones that were built in the middle of the spec or looser are like mine.

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your theory makes the most sense. Over anything else I've heard. However, that could be corrected at any dealership. Has anyone gotten a measurement? Anyone asked (mainly you since you thought of it ?)
 

loveracing1988

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that should NOT be happening, ever.
I could actually power brake mine in 4 low and the fronts would never even fully engage and it would last for about 10 seconds and then it would overheat the clutch. The same thing happened in deep snow, turn the wheel side to side to get traction and clutch starts slipping and then overheats leaving you almost stranded.

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