6.4L upgades

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Albert525

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Looking to do some basic performance upgrades on 2020 2500 6.4L 410hp from an engine designed to make nearly 500 is a little sad. I have found k&n drop in filter, and like the mbrp cat back, but whats the best optimal thing most are doing?
about to order new 2020, and not finding many mods. Does throttle body make sense?
 

dexter

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Looking to do some basic performance upgrades on 2020 2500 6.4L 410hp from an engine designed to make nearly 500 is a little sad. I have found k&n drop in filter, and like the mbrp cat back, but whats the best optimal thing most are doing?
about to order new 2020, and not finding many mods. Does throttle body make sense?

There is a thread somewhere asking the same thing for the 1500. It has good suggestions.

You should consider first going with what gives the most HP for the lowest cost (HP/$) and work your way up.

I'd first do an electric fan.

Then look for a tuner to get the max out of the mods you do.

But look for the list.
 

LeesEvoX

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Who says the engine is designed for 500hp? Lol. Please dont tell me you are comparing the 6.4l truck motor to the 6.4l car engine. Because I'm pretty sure they are completely different internally..

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Albert525

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perhaps its a bad comparison, but they must have done something to de tune it a bit, so I Figured there was some bottleneck, heads, throttle body etc.
In many other dodge cars throttle body is near 0 help, I prefer better sound so intake and exhaust is a given for that, but typically its near 0 performance just sound.
that why Im here to ask dumb questions for those in the know to help
 

LeesEvoX

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perhaps its a bad comparison, but they must have done something to de tune it a bit, so I Figured there was some bottleneck, heads, throttle body etc.
In many other dodge cars throttle body is near 0 help, I prefer better sound so intake and exhaust is a given for that, but typically its near 0 performance just sound.
that why Im here to ask dumb questions for those in the know to help
They might share the same casting. It internally they will be drastically different. Different cam profile, compression ratio, pistons, rods etc.

Also dont think there is any tuning for the 2020 yet.

Once tuning is available, just toss a pro charger on it lol

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CG2742

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You can get a diablo tune I believe. But you have to do almost all
Bolt on mods and tuner to get 500hp short of adding forced induction. Definitely would have to do a cam swap as well.
 

LeesEvoX

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You can get a diablo tune I believe. But you have to do almost all
Bolt on mods and tuner to get 500hp short of adding forced induction. Definitely would have to do a cam swap as well.
For 2020 models? Man, I've been looking everywhere for a tuner for the 2020. But haven't found one.

Do share...

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CG2742

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For 2020 models? Man, I've been looking everywhere for a tuner for the 2020. But haven't found one.

Do share...

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Sorry, it’s for diesels. My bad. Diablo said soon though. Couldn’t give me a date.
 
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Albert525

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Why do they half to de tune it with cam and low compression ratio, the cars will get wot much more often. I was hoping it was more an intake thing or throttle body. Honestly ported intake and 10.5:1 87 octain should be stock on the 6.4L
 

LeesEvoX

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Why do they half to de tune it with cam and low compression ratio, the cars will get wot much more often. I was hoping it was more an intake thing or throttle body. Honestly ported intake and 10.5:1 87 octain should be stock on the 6.4L
But you are forgetting 1 is a car, the other a truck.

The 6.4l engine for the challenger/charger will be designed to make max power, fast acceleration. While the truck engine is designed for heavy loads, towing, longevity.

The car engine will use lighter pistons, rods, crankshaft. Thing to lessen rotating mass. Or parasitic loss.

The truck engine will have big heavy pistons, rods, crank. To deal with the heavy loads, and stress of towing/hauling.



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NDanecker

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Considering most things you talk about will void the engine warranty (probably not the cat back exhaust) which I'm guessing you are ok with my suggestion is to unlock the PCM and find a tuner that can take advantage of the mods. Without a tune most mods will do little to be worth it. I'd also be careful with some of those piggyback tunes that do very little to add HP at the upper RPM range but instead modify the throttle curve making the truck 'seem' faster. All depends what you are trying to achieve. Either way I agree these motors are neutered to meet specific target HP/TQ and MPG targets. Cam would give you the biggest gains. Unless you go forced induction the lower end is fine stock.
 
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Albert525

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to be "heavy for heavy load" it actually needs durable, which is forged parts not ones phisically heavier, and weight increases recipicating losses not durability. I get lowering compression ratio to reduce engine load / pressure, which reduces hp, but a truck needs torque more than hp, so for tuning wise tweaking cams for torque makes more sense to me than just reducing power. I get the idea is longivity, so reduce compression ration and timing, but 70 hp drop? And looses 40 ft/lb torque? its the torque loss thats really the issue in the truck.
 

LeesEvoX

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to be "heavy for heavy load" it actually needs durable, which is forged parts not ones phisically heavier, and weight increases recipicating losses not durability. I get lowering compression ratio to reduce engine load / pressure, which reduces hp, but a truck needs torque more than hp, so for tuning wise tweaking cams for torque makes more sense to me than just reducing power. I get the idea is longivity, so reduce compression ration and timing, but 70 hp drop? And looses 40 ft/lb torque? its the torque loss thats really the issue in the truck.
There is no 40hp drop though.... these are TWO DIFFERENT ENGINES.

They share the same short block casting... that's it. Maybe even the same bore/stroke

I dont know why you are hung up on this.

From what I have found differences are:
Heads
Valves/seats
Cam
Pistons. Rings. And pins
Rods
Intake/exhaust manifolds
Oil pan
Oil pump
Timing cover

If you want those big girl horsepower numbers the just quit dicking around and procharge the damn thing. Lol

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Albert525

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pro-charger is the way for sure, but I figured maybe they restricted the intake and a bigger throttle body, maybe it doesn't have headers, but honestly sounds like cam, ported heads, compression ratio, is the key nothing simple
 

NDanecker

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I would stay away from throwing boost at a stock 6.4 motor. The 6.4 stock pistons don't like boost and will chip/break (top ring is very close to edge). People have done it and say they only will do a few PSI, but eventually turn up the boost and bam. Also, a pro-charger or any centrifugal blower is meant for higher RPM boost. A positive displacement supercharger like roots or eaton is best especially on a truck where it lives at low to mid rpms most of the time......unless of course you are building a track truck.

Here is a good video to explain the different types.

 

j517

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I had a Tacoma with a trd super charger it was fun but remember if it's your daily driver you be a foo. After spending 6k on a supercharger the cost of gas went through the roof.

Super anything you have to use premium fuel. I got stopped by the cops for speeding close to a 100 with out realizing it. Lucky he let me off with a ass chewing (on my way to work I'm now retired cop) would have cost a perty peny for the fine.

Bought a f250 dropped a **** load of $$$$ on it then changed it dropped more $$$$$ then traded it in again dropped a **** load of $$$$$$ then

I bought my power wagon. Have no complaints love the power it makes. Love the ride quality what I can tell ya bud dont freak with it. Trying to gain more power from it

Mods I will always do since I am a kid at heart

S&b cai
borla rx1 or something didn't like it
Now flowmaster super 44
Spod module
All kinds of stupid lights
Diamond back tun cover

Dude nod your truck to make it your own show your individuality more power=more gas



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Albert525

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But you are forgetting 1 is a car, the other a truck.

The 6.4l engine for the challenger/charger will be designed to make max power, fast acceleration. While the truck engine is designed for heavy loads, towing, longevity.

The car engine will use lighter pistons, rods, crankshaft. Thing to lessen rotating mass. Or parasitic loss.

The truck engine will have big heavy pistons, rods, crank. To deal with the heavy loads, and stress of towing/hauling.



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There is no 40hp drop though.... these are TWO DIFFERENT ENGINES.

They share the same short block casting... that's it. Maybe even the same bore/stroke

I dont know why you are hung up on this.

From what I have found differences are:
Heads
Valves/seats
Cam
Pistons. Rings. And pins
Rods
Intake/exhaust manifolds
Oil pan
Oil pump
Timing cover

If you want those big girl horsepower numbers the just quit dicking around and procharge the damn thing. Lol

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heads, valve size, intake exhaust manafold If they are smaller impact hp, rest doesnt. The fact its 6.4L hemi and much of its near same is relivant, but they obviously did de tuning. If durability was key then it would be all forged. its likley the compression ratio was dropped to reduce stress which lowers power, and possibly neudered it purposly with restricted heads.
trucks need torque and hp. more in fact than a car.
 

theviking

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ARH headers are going to give you the greatest gain short of going FI. The heads are not restricted, being essentially Hellcat heads machined for an intake instead of a blower. The block IS the Hellcat block. HP differences vs the SRT motor are primarily a result of tuning, camshaft changes, compression drop and the ****** log manifolds (hence the header gains).

The piston design, while not optimal for FI, is much better suited for boost then the SRT piece. As always, proper tuning, good fuel and sane boost levels are the most important factors.
 
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