65rfe 4th gen 6 speed auto xsmn .

[U&A]

Post#414 was the start of my transmission fluid change.

So the first picture is the really easy way I found to break the seal on the transmission pan. It's a plastic falling wedge for cutting trees down. There's a perfect spot on the front side of the transmission where a rib on the transmission makes a great spot to wedge in between the pan just a few smacks with a hammer in the was broke.

Second picture is with the cover off before I did any filter changes. As for that little Oring with the steel inside of it that I had so much trouble with... put a screwdriver on the edge of it and smack the back of the screwdriver with a hammer so it bends it in. It fell right out after that.

EDIT:

Forgot to mention to put the new o-ring in, a three-quarter inch ( use a deep well, otherwise it won't be long enough) socket is perfect size to set on the ring once you've inserted it into the transmission. You can then tap the three-quarter inch socket with a hammer to evenly press it in. And believe me it is a very tight press fit.

 

[U&A]

Picture of the old plan and 2 gallons of used fluid. I measure the fluid that came out of the truck so I knew what to put back in +2 quarts extra because of the deep pan.

The used atf gallons were a little over full so I did 2 1/2 gallons of new fluid to start with and then I'll check it and probably have to add a little more.

 

[U&A]

No leaks and there's been fluid in it for about an hour and a half.

 

[jettajam1]

Picture of the old plan and 2 gallons of used fluid. I measure the fluid that came out of the truck so I knew what to put back in +2 quarts extra because of the deep pan.



The used atf gallons were a little over full so I did 2 1/2 gallons of new fluid to start with and then I'll check it and probably have to add a little more.

Nicely done!!!

Hey did you happen to notice any deformation on the stock pan after you removed it with the wedge technique? When I pulled mine off, I kinda tweaked the flange a bit and had a hard time getting it back to shape (so I bought a new OEM pan).

For those that change their own fluid and plan on reusing their stock pan, the wedge tool may be the perfect solution to having a perfectly straight flange, thus preventing any potential leak paths.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[U&A]

Nicely done!!!

Hey did you happen to notice any deformation on the stock pan after you removed it with the wedge technique? When I pulled mine off, I kinda tweaked the flange a bit and had a hard time getting it back to shape (so I bought a new OEM pan).

For those that change their own fluid and plan on reusing their stock pan, the wedge tool may be the perfect solution to having a perfectly straight flange, thus preventing any potential leak paths.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Zero deformation. There are two of the same ribs they are mirror images of each other on each side of the transmission so I went from one to the other gave each one a few taps and it busted loose pretty easy.

Just want to note again this is not a regular wedge it is a plastic falling wedge so it has a very sharp tapper to it.

 

[jettajam1]

No leaks and there's been fluid in it for about an hour and a half.

Damn, you guys with the 4x4s are fortunate with all that space above the cross-over pipe......looks like a pretty easy installation.

I still haven't got around to dropping the Y-pipe (2WD) in order to install my MH pan[emoji19]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hemi395]

Zero deformation. There are two of the same ribs they are mirror images of each other on each side of the transmission so I went from one to the other gave each one a few taps and it busted loose pretty easy.

Just want to note again this is not a regular wedge it is a plastic falling wedge so it has a very sharp tapper to it.

Awesome write-up man! The wedge is a great idea! I used a putty knife and it was a pain in the ass to get it to break the seal but it worked eventually. That looks like it worked great. So when I do my next pan drop for filter changes, I can pretty much follow what was in the video I posted to get that o ring out?

Pan looks great! Where is the drain plug on it? Is the magnet integrated with the plug?

 

[U&A]

Awesome write-up man! The wedge is a great idea! I used a putty knife and it was a pain in the ass to get it to break the seal but it worked eventually. That looks like it worked great. So when I do my next pan drop for filter changes, I can pretty much follow what was in the video I posted to get that o ring out?

Pan looks great! Where is the drain plug on it? Is the magnet integrated with the plug?

I did exactly what he did in the video to remove that ring it worked great just be careful not to gouge the transmission with a screwdriver.

The plug is on the side of the pan at the very bottom opposite side of the picture and there is a magnet on it I can post a pic in a little bit

 

[U&A]

Here it is before the install HEMI.

 

[Hemi395]

Those are some nice big cooling fins!

 

[U&A]

So I drove it around, got up to 160.

For the 66 RFE normal operating times are around 170.

Put the truck in neutral while running and it is not even close to the hot marks.....? WTF? I put 2.5 gallons in and only took out a little more than 2 gallons when the stock pan was on . The new pan is supposed to be 2 quarts over stock.

 

[U&A]

Went home and got it up to 165. Still said low... WTF. So i put the rest of the remaining gallon in. That is just shy of an extra gallon over stock. Im wondering if more than normal came out of the toqure converter when i drained it. I was told that a fluid change on my tranny should be 6.6 quarts with filters and I got a little more than 8 quarts out.... must have been the differance.

It would make sence. Almost 2 more quarts came out than what was stated should, and i put a 2 quart over stock pan on it. That would be an extra gallon.

 

[Hemi395]

I know a little more comes out when you change the filters but I doubt its that much. Very strange...

 

[U&A]

I know a little more comes out when you change the filters but I doubt its that much. Very strange...

Well i also know the the torque converter hold a lot and if it drains out of that it will add to it. It's supposed to drain fairly slow but if you let it sit long enough a lot of it will come out.

EDIT. I did let it sit for a good few hours befor i got the new pan on.

 

[R.L.K.]

Well i also know the the torque converter hold a lot and if it drains out of that it will add to it. It's supposed to drain fairly slow but if you let it sit long enough a lot of it will come out.

EDIT. I did let it sit for a good few hours befor i got the new pan on.

Yep tq converter , you also let it sit overnight for the sealant to cure didn't you ?
That's when the converter continued to drained down , when you drove it the converter serviced back up and your level went down .



Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[U&A]

Yep tq converter , you also let it sit overnight for the sealant to cure didn't you ?
That's when the converter continued to drained down , when you drove it the converter serviced back up and your level went down .



Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Yes sir. But to be fair the new pan was on all night and i forgot to drain what had been sitting in it from over night. In the end i still had just over 2 quarts more drain than what i was told should come out.

Ill just check it every time i drive it for a while. Overfilling can be just as bad as underfilling....to a certain degree.

 

[R.L.K.]

Hopefully I'll be installing my Mag-Hytec pan this weekend and pouring in the Redline C+ fluid .
For the 4x4 65RFE guys with the -45 transfer case how much and what type of fluid did you use to drain & reservice the Xsfer case ?

Also @ Hemi , I'm assuming your 65RFE is still liking the Redline ?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Hemi395]

Hopefully I'll be installing my Mag-Hytec pan this weekend and pouring in the Redline C+ fluid .
For the 4x4 65RFE guys with the -45 transfer case how much and what type of fluid did you use to drain & reservice the Xsfer case ?

Also @ Hemi , I'm assuming your 65RFE is still liking the Redline ?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Yeah it's shifting great on C+ and the temps are a little lower than with Castrol Transmax but I haven't run it in the summer yet. It definitely shifts smoother in extreme cold with C+.

I was originally going to try Amsoil SS MVATF but I just don't like how it's a one size fits all fluid that "meets" ATF+4 specs. Redline created C+ specifically to ATF+4 specs

 

[U&A]

I have a request to make for the next guy that drops his pan. I have thought of this now after I've done the transmission fluid change myself and wish I had done it. Just kind of a creature comfort thing.

Once the pan is off, leave all the filters on and leave the dipstick all the way inserted.

Put a torpedo level on the bottom of the inlet tube on the take up screen filter.

Then do your best to eyeball how far below The bottom of the dipstick is compared to the bottom of the inlet tube.

Point being when we do our first cold check if we have any amount of fluid on the dipstick we know there is "said amount" of fluid that the inlet tube is submerged in so we know we are not starving the translation of fluid.

If I remember correctly it is pretty far below the bottom of the dipstick but it would be some nice information to confirm.

EDIT:
I do want to say that I assume if any fluid at all is on the dipstick then you're good to go with your hot check next, but doublechecking with this process would not hurt

 

[U&A]

I think it's especially important because we do not put the filter extensions on these transmissions with the deeper pans