8 speed transmission change kit

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ramtruckrob

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I am planning to drain and fill my 8 speed transmission fluid in my 2013 ram 1500 with 110k miles for the first time. Are you guys buying the full kits that come with the new pan, fluids, and bolts together or are you buying everything separately? What's the best deal? I also am not concerned about making it easier to change next time so having a pan with a removable filter is not a big concern of mine.

What do you guys recommend/ have experience with? I'm willing to spend the $300 for the full kits if it is in fact the best option but am always looking to save money.
 

SitKneelBend

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I am planning to drain and fill my 8 speed transmission fluid in my 2013 ram 1500 with 110k miles for the first time. Are you guys buying the full kits that come with the new pan, fluids, and bolts together or are you buying everything separately? What's the best deal? I also am not concerned about making it easier to change next time so having a pan with a removable filter is not a big concern of mine.

What do you guys recommend/ have experience with? I'm willing to spend the $300 for the full kits if it is in fact the best option but am always looking to save money.
Sub'd, I'd like to do the same thing so looking for the same advice...
 

reddawg67

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I need to do this also so I’m following. 111000 on my 2017 express
 
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ramtruckrob

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Looks like I can buy the pan/new bolts and Mopar fluid for a little under $200. The cheaper kit from blau is about $289 and includes a fluid pump. I have a pump already and it's not worth $90 for sure. I'm just not certain about the pan when I know the blau kit is for sure the correct one.
 

Daniel12

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I bought the Dorman pan replacement (265-850) w/ replaceable filter. Also got some Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Haven't had any issues. Just ordered a new filter and gasket (265-850F) for the pan actually. Going to do another fluid change once it gets a little bit warmer out.
 
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ramtruckrob

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I bought the Dorman pan replacement (265-850) w/ replaceable filter. Also got some Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Haven't had any issues. Just ordered a new filter and gasket (265-850F) for the pan actually. Going to do another fluid change once it gets a little bit warmer out.
Did you need to jack the transmission up to get the old pan off or new pan on? It looks like I have enough clearance to remove my pan and I'm trying to avoid jacking up the transmission if possible. Is that dorman pan deeper than oem?
 

Daniel12

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Did you need to jack the transmission up to get the old pan off or new pan on? It looks like I have enough clearance to remove my pan and I'm trying to avoid jacking up the transmission if possible. Is that dorman pan deeper than oem?
I did not have to jack the transmission up. There are 2 bolts that are above your exhaust pipe though, assuming you have a HEMI, that can be annoying to get out without a small socket. Pretty sure the Dorman pan is the same size as the OEM
 
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ramtruckrob

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Is 110k miles to late for me to be doing this change? I got the new pan and fluid yesterday and it's going to rain this weekend but I've been planning to do it the next chance I got. My truck has always delayed shifting into 2nd when it's cold but I don't think that's a slipping problem since it drives normally after that first initial cold shift. Is that a common thing with the hemi? Mine has done it for as long as I can remember.

I want to take the fill plug off and try to get a little fluid out to see how bad it is. My research says that if it's black milky looking them I should probably leave it alone but with all the conflicting information I am just not sure. I'd hate to suddenly have a slip after doing all of this work.
 

Atcer2018

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Is 110k miles to late for me to be doing this change? I got the new pan and fluid yesterday and it's going to rain this weekend but I've been planning to do it the next chance I got. My truck has always delayed shifting into 2nd when it's cold but I don't think that's a slipping problem since it drives normally after that first initial cold shift. Is that a common thing with the hemi? Mine has done it for as long as I can remember.

I want to take the fill plug off and try to get a little fluid out to see how bad it is. My research says that if it's black milky looking them I should probably leave it alone but with all the conflicting information I am just not sure. I'd hate to suddenly have a slip after doing all of this work.

Delayed shift between 1 and 2 when cold is common with the 8 speed.

If you leave the old fluid in what happens when that old fluid is completely worn out? Not changing the fluid isn’t going to benefit the transmission in the long run. It’s kicking any problems down the road.
 

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I did my '15 at 108k miles

 
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ramtruckrob

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I did my '15 at 108k miles

I'm planning to do my 2013 with 110k miles tomorrow. I had to buy a new jack because my old one decided it was time to retire after almost 20 years and wouldn't lift anything. For some reason I'm extra nervous about this fluid change. I think it's stressing me out thinking I won't be able to get the pan rail level and I'll be on my own racing the clock towards the end to avoid the fluid getting to hot. I also worry about spinning the wheels to 2nd gear with it on jack stands. I bought some wheel chocks but with the back end up so high will they still be safe to use?

I'm also worried about what the fluid will look like coming out.
 

EdGs

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I'm planning to do my 2013 with 110k miles tomorrow. I had to buy a new jack because my old one decided it was time to retire after almost 20 years and wouldn't lift anything. For some reason I'm extra nervous about this fluid change. I think it's stressing me out thinking I won't be able to get the pan rail level and I'll be on my own racing the clock towards the end to avoid the fluid getting to hot. I also worry about spinning the wheels to 2nd gear with it on jack stands. I bought some wheel chocks but with the back end up so high will they still be safe to use?

I'm also worried about what the fluid will look like coming out.
You will be fine. The worst part is the getting up and down if you are doing this yourself.

Crack the fill plug loose BEFORE you drain the trans. I had no problem getting an 8mm hex key on the fill plug, and I did use a small length of pipe as a cheater for leverage. I did cut down the short side of a 10mm hex key to loosen the drain plug, there is not much room between the pan and the crossover pipe.

You can rest the level on the pan screws, that should get you close, and you can recheck level of the trans once the pan is removed.

Approximately 5-1/2 quarts of fluid is what you will take on a drain and fill with OE style pan, I think ~2 quarts more with a PPE pan.

If you have a cheapy inch-lb torque wrench, be careful as the pan screws only need ~88 in-lb, which is not very much past snug. I always check my torque wrench on a different bolt thats already tight (like a 10mm elsewhere on the truck), just to get the feel for the wrench (I have seen and experienced snapped bolts from a non-working torque wrench). I always set my wrench to minimum torque after use.

I tightened my pan bolts in 2 steps, first to 50 in-lbs, then to 88 in-lbs.

Once the pan is replaced, it should take ~3 quarts on the initial fill, then 2 quarts or so after starting the engine.
 
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Atcer2018

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Everything EdG said plus don’t get too stressed about getting the fill correct within the temp parameters. If the temp goes over 122 (I think that’s the max) just put the fill plug in and shut the truck down till it cools off and come back to it later. There is no rule that says it has to be done all at one time. Good luck, you’ll be fine.
 
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ramtruckrob

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I bought 2 wheel chocks that I plan to put in front of the front tires along with 4x4 pieces behind the front tires. The way I'll have the truck parked the driveway will slope down towards the front which helps level the transmission a little but since it's asphalt I worry about the truck sliding off of the jack stands or even having the stands slide under the weight of the truck. Each stand is rated for 3 tons so weight isn't as concerning to me as gravity on the slope.
 

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I couldn't get my transmission completely level when I did my old 1500, but it was pretty close. Felt pretty sketchy running it in gear on jack stands. Otherwise its really not a hard procedure to do. It will help a ton if you have a fluid pump you can operate with one hand, like a converted home depot sprayer.
 
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ramtruckrob

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I decided to see how tight the fill plug was last night to break it loose so it's ready for today. It was really tight and I busted a knuyehen it broke loose. Then I stupidly assumed I could just remove the plug without fluid coming out but I ended up loosing close to a quart on my driveway and my phone while I panicked trying to put the plug back in. I assume this happened because it wasn't level but I was still surprised how much came out considering it's supposed to just drop when it's full.

Not the best start to the project and I'm locked into it now.
 
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ramtruckrob

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I got to the point where I started the truck and went back under to put more fluid in. Then I struggled getting the fill plug back in because I was getting burned and I finally got it and went through the gears and the temp hit 122 and I turned the truck off before driving to 2nd gear. Now I'm just waiting for it to get cool again and I guess start from where I left off.

I'll just start it, go through the gears, drive to 2nd for 5 seconds, then 2k RPMs in neutral for 5 seconds. Check the fluid one more time and call it a day. For some reason my traction control would not turn off which was another delay causing me to run out of time. I'm not sure what's going on with that.
 

EdGs

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I got to the point where I started the truck and went back under to put more fluid in. Then I struggled getting the fill plug back in because I was getting burned and I finally got it and went through the gears and the temp hit 122 and I turned the truck off before driving to 2nd gear. Now I'm just waiting for it to get cool again and I guess start from where I left off.

I'll just start it, go through the gears, drive to 2nd for 5 seconds, then 2k RPMs in neutral for 5 seconds. Check the fluid one more time and call it a day. For some reason my traction control would not turn off which was another delay causing me to run out of time. I'm not sure what's going on with that.
It will take a good bit before it cools off. I did my pan replacement and initial drain and fill from dead cold (Florida cold, lol) on the first day, took her for a full warm-up drive, then got her back up on the jackstands and let her sit overnight.

Started her up the next day, and she took a little more fluid. Then let her cool a bit and rechecked. Had some more fluid dribble out, and called it good.

As you found out, the fluid drains back a bit from all the internals when the engine's not running, hence the level above the fill plug. Hope your phone is ok.

Btw, did you use OE fluid?
 

Atcer2018

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I decided to see how tight the fill plug was last night to break it loose so it's ready for today. It was really tight and I busted a knuyehen it broke loose. Then I stupidly assumed I could just remove the plug without fluid coming out but I ended up loosing close to a quart on my driveway and my phone while I panicked trying to put the plug back in. I assume this happened because it wasn't level but I was still surprised how much came out considering it's supposed to just drop when it's full.

Not the best start to the project and I'm locked into it now.

Was the truck turned off when you broke the fill plug open and removed it? If it was turned off the torque converter wasn’t filled with fluid and it drained into the pan raising the fluid level which in turn will come gushing out when the fill plug is removed. The reason the fluid level is checked with the vehicle running is so the torque converter fills.
 
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