AEV Switch Pod installed

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Bo Daggart

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Ill definitely be posting some! its loud enough that you can feel it! lol Hornblasters says it can be heard from 4 miles away!!!!

It doesnt do it ANY justice but here is the same kit in my Raptor

Having an air compressor come on Every time I use the horn would annoy me
 

Nick@GotExhaust

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Having an air compressor come on Every time I use the horn would annoy me
It's not that noticeable especially with the spare tire delete as the rubber pads help reduce vibration noise.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

Nick@GotExhaust

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MarshRam

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Ill definitely be posting some! its loud enough that you can feel it! lol Hornblasters says it can be heard from 4 miles away!!!!

It doesnt do it ANY justice but here is the same kit in my Raptor



About to edit my mod list. I need this for all the dumbs...s who cut me off or get dangerously close to. Why on earth anyone would do that to a big truck is beyond me, but is a major problem I deal with at least once a week. My insurance company should pay me for the accidents I avoid. Would it be legal for me to give them a honk, aka. scare of their lives?
 

Nick@GotExhaust

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About to edit my mod list. I need this for all the dumbs...s who cut me off or get dangerously close to. Why on earth anyone would do that to a big truck is beyond me, but is a major problem I deal with at least once a week. My insurance company should pay me for the accidents I avoid. Would it be legal for me to give them a honk, aka. scare of their lives?

I have a similar issue and these are great to make them aware lol. legally I have ran train horns on 2 vehicles and never had an issue. I also have installed them in some friend's trucks and they have never had an issue either. My friend's and myself have all used them very often and still no problems. you do need to be smart about and not blast em near a police officer or anything like that. every state has different regulations as far as air horns.

Honestly its a very fun mod in addition to useful for the A holes on the road. I have scared the $hit out of my coworkers many times lol
 

MarshRam

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I really do want these to alarm the a..holes. Not worried about the Deputies, but I would be concerned about causing an accident from the fear I could instill. This is something that constantly happens to me in medium/high traffic conditions.

It's not that most these people are likely a..holes, just not paying attention while driving. Which in my opinion is unacceptable and irresponsible, especially since we as humans are already in a type of fight or flight response mode while driving.

Once my mod list is done, I'll probably get bored and consider adding them to shout out to my semi buddies! Gonna have to refrain from using them the way I want to, because I will no doubt use them to their full potential! You have no idea how much I want to make a point to those knuckleheads on the road!
 
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JB1

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What rock lights are you using?

The ones in the fenders are Rigid A series High power 400 lumens each, Nick gave me a great deal and had them in stock.

I’m gonna start a new thread with pictures, it’s been raining every weekend here.
 
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JB1

JB1

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I have been getting detailed questions about the power distribution box, this is kinda technical and not for the average person but here goes. The box is a littlefuse HWB60. It uses Delphi 280 tanged terminals, they have a little tab that once you push them in the slot they lock in. You have to use a special tool to remove them. They are a double crimp style fitting, one section crimps on bare wire the other crimps around the wires insulation. The 280 designates the slot size, from there you must select what size based on the gauge of wire your using (24-18ga) (16-14ga) (10-12ga) etc. To keep that water proof you also slide a little rubber boot on each wire before you crimp, then after crimping you insert tab then slide boot up the wire into the hole like a plug. Also with any unused slots you plug them up. These Delphi 280 connectors require a special crimping tool. When you select your relays and mini fuses etc make sure they use a Delphi 280 style connection.

I use only automotive grade GXL wire, no cheap stuff. You can buy it at wire barn.

The connectors at the back of the switch use a packard 630 crimp, they are different because the switches have a larger 1/4” male blade connection.

The crimp fittings are available several places even Amazon, search by “Delphi 280” and “Packard 630” and buy a tool that crimps this style fitting and for the gauge of wire.

http://m.littelfuse.com/products/dc-power-distribution-modules/hard-wired-pdm/hwb60/pdm21001lxm.aspx


http://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/commercial-vehicle/datasheets/pdm/littelfuse-pdm-hwb60-datasheet.pdf

https://www.wirebarn.com/

https://otrattw.net/Eight-Terminal-Rear-Connector-Housing-VCH-02.html
 

Outbreak

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I looked, and may have missed it, but where did you get that mating connector?

BTW, that's a sweet setup you have! I'm going to re-do mine now. I have all of the relays and switches working, but mine are located by the emergency brake. I also wired mine into the dash dimmer, but they're still really bright. I'll have to look into maybe adding a resistor to tone it down.
 

S0CAL

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really wished this setup was possible on my '10. Bummer.
 
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JB1

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I looked, and may have missed it, but where did you get that mating connector?

BTW, that's a sweet setup you have! I'm going to re-do mine now. I have all of the relays and switches working, but mine are located by the emergency brake. I also wired mine into the dash dimmer, but they're still really bright. I'll have to look into maybe adding a resistor to tone it down.

The connector was nothing fancy I had 9-10 wires and the gauge worked for my wires. It fits thru the opening of the switch plate too, just remember when disconnected the female end should be the hot side, male to the switch side. With this style it doesn't matter but its good practice.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRV0RUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Outbreak

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The connector was nothing fancy I had 9-10 wires and the gauge worked for my wires. It fits thru the opening of the switch plate too, just remember when disconnected the female end should be the hot side, male to the switch side. With this style it doesn't matter but its good practice.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRV0RUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for posting the link. I absolutely agree with the female end being on the hot side - no chance of shorting something out.

One last question, what gauge wire did you use between your relays and switches? I can't remember what I used last time, but I'm sure I went too big for that little amperage.
 
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JB1

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For the trigger wires I just used 18ga, I posted the schematic I made on the first post
 

Outbreak

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For the trigger wires I just used 18ga, I posted the schematic I made on the first post

Thanks! I took a look at the schematic, but I couldn't quite make it out.
 

rossbourne14

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i would love to do this to mine, just not sure if i am that tech savy..




Over the year I started adding more and more electrical items to my truck so I decided to add the AEV 6 position switch pod part number 30601000AA to the dash. I designed a schematic, ran it by @IRSmart a few times to check my plan and started ordering the parts.

https://secure.aev-conversions.com/shop/products/interior/switch-pod-for-ram-trucks




The power distribution box is made by littlefuse HWB60 and worked well. I ran the trigger wires inside the fender like the other oem wires are.

http://www.littelfuse.com/products/...modules/hard-wired-pdm/hwb60/pdm21001lxm.aspx




The switches are from OTRATTW (Over The River and Thru The Woods)

https://otrattw.net/LOWER-INDEPENDENT-LIGHT-UPPER-DEPENDENT-LIGHT-SWITCH-ONLY/

The rockers are Contura XIV, they have a good feel to them and have a "separation" molded in to distinguish upper or lower.

https://otrattw.net/CONTURA-XIV-ROCKER-ONLY/

I used @kad method of entering the cab via a rubber boot.

http://www.ramforum.com/threads/ins...nning-wires-into-the-cab.117923/#post-1696482


I routed the wire bundle behind the head unit and up thru the top of the center stack. I then added the mating connector to allow easy removal of the switch pod.








 

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