Anybody ever have a brake pad fall out ?

[Addicted2fishing]

Truck is 4 years old in may and has 84,000 kilometres on it AND I do mostly highway AND I’m not a hard brakerer lol


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[62Blazer]

As stated above, the picture of the piece you found is just the friction material and not the entire brake pad. So the friction material separated from the backing plates.......if the complete brake pad fell off there would be something else major going on. No way I would wait a couple weeks for brake pads when the truck is out of commission, especially when probably every autoparts stores has them in stock. You need to tear it apart and see if you need any other parts.

 

[Addicted2fishing]

As stated above, the picture of the piece you found is just the friction material and not the entire brake pad. So the friction material separated from the backing plates.......if the complete brake pad fell off there would be something else major going on. No way I would wait a couple weeks for brake pads when the truck is out of commission, especially when probably every autoparts stores has them in stock. You need to tear it apart and see if you need any other parts.

I’m gonna take the wheels off and have a look today or tomorrow. I got the bigger jack here now so.... I could always cancel my order if things look decent up in there. I’m not a mechanic but I think I’ll be able to tell of the caliber is bad or rotors need replacing. I hope anyways lol


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[caulk04]

Ok.

Rotors - probably ok. I'd likely change them, but that's me.

Pads - Obviously...

CailPers - Likely ok, need to check. It would have extended quite a bit since the pad fell out, but just one side. If all other part are present and there's similar meat left on the other pad I bet it's ok.

 

[OC455]

The ears would have to shear off for the whole pad to drop out, unlikely.
More likely the pad separated.
Either way the caliper pistons went past their travel range & probably damaged the seals.
Don't drive it until you know.

I dunno, that looks like the whole pad to me....looks like the tabs that stick off of the backing plate rotted away. The friction material doesn't go all the way to the edge indicating it to be just the friction material separating from the backing plate. You might want to get the whole front inspected before you do anything with your truck. Rotors, calipers and pads.

 

[Addicted2fishing]

I dunno, that looks like the whole pad to me....looks like the tabs that stick off of the backing plate rotted away. The friction material doesn't go all the way to the edge indicating it to be just the friction material separating from the backing plate. You might want to get the whole front inspected before you do anything with your truck. Rotors, calipers and pads.

When you say front inspected you referring to the brakes ? Or do you suspect something else is happening ? I’m fairly stock and get rust proofed every year and keep the salt off my truck in winter.


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[GTyankee]

This seems to be a detailed video

Except he did not check out the caliper at all


caliper rebuild

 

[OC455]

When you say front inspected you referring to the brakes ? Or do you suspect something else is happening ? I’m fairly stock and get rust proofed every year and keep the salt off my truck in winter.


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Just look everything over to make sure the brakes aren't all jacked up....

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[Addicted2fishing]

Just look everything over to make sure the brakes aren't all jacked up....

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I’ll definitely take a look and if something seems out of the ordinary I’ll bring her in. But I figure as it stands right now I have two kids and we tow the boat a lot in summer so a brake replacement/upgrade can’t hurt. I’ll replacing everything except
Calipers if they’re not damaged. I also need to buy 3 Ton jack stands as mine aren’t suitable


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[Octane]

The brake fluid changeout is not necessarily based on how many miles but how long the fluid has been in the system because over time it absorbs moisture into the fluid and that corrodes internal parts of the brake system. Personally I replace the fluid about every third year in my vehicles. Even the vehicle that just sits a lot. And in my case every third year could mean about 100,000 miles on the vehicle

 

[Trapper1]

The joys of Ontario roads. Heavily salted in the winter. I am sure when you pull the other pads, they will be separating from corrosion as well. I would check the rears as well. Drivers side is usually worse from extra road spray from opposing traffic. 30 years as a mechanic in Ontario, I have seen this many times.

 

[Addicted2fishing]

The joys of Ontario roads. Heavily salted in the winter. I am sure when you pull the other pads, they will be separating from corrosion as well. I would check the rears as well. Drivers side is usually worse from extra road spray from opposing traffic. 30 years as a mechanic in Ontario, I have seen this many times.

Lol. Yeah I’m almost positive it fell off the driver side.... do you have any recommendations for a sticky e brake ? While I have the crap off I’ll take a look. I heard the only way to really fix it is to remove the axle lmao. I’m NOT doing that. But if you have ideas on what I can do whilst the rotor is off I’m all ears (or eyes in this case). Thanks!


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[Trapper1]

Sticky e-brake is usually caused by the parking brake lever and link assembly seizing up. If it is only sticking and not seized, I have had success removing the rotor and spraying MINIMAL fluid film only on the pin, then with the rotor still off, working the lever back and forth. If the pin is seized solid, you can remove the shoes,PITA, and free up the pin. I personally have never removed the axle for this. As a side note, when inspecting your pads, if there is any kind of gap/space between pad material and steel backing, replace them.

 

[Addicted2fishing]

Sticky e-brake is usually caused by the parking brake lever and link assembly seizing up. If it is only sticking and not seized, I have had success removing the rotor and spraying MINIMAL fluid film only on the pin, then with the rotor still off, working the lever back and forth. If the pin is seized solid, you can remove the shoes,PITA, and free up the pin. I personally have never removed the axle for this. As a side note, when inspecting your pads, if there is any kind of gap/space between pad material and steel backing, replace them.

Thanks! I use a screw driver and pulled the tab and it tightened my cable up. As for the brakes I’m not gonna bother with pads etc. I’m just gonna replace everything. I ordered the PS Z36 kit for front abs back. Seem to have decent reviews so I’ll give it a shot.

Should I change the brake fluid while I’m at it? It’s a 2017 84,000 kilometres.


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[Dr. Righteous]

I'm wondering if brake calipers on these RAMs are problematic. Had a brake caliper lock up on me and totally cooked the RF pads and rotor. When I figure out that stink was my truck I pulled into a gas station. Smoke was boiling out of the RF wheel and everyone thought the truck was on fire. I always change brake pads and rotors as a set and had replaced them along with new wheel bearing hubs about 8 months before.

 

[Addicted2fishing]

I'm wondering if brake calipers on these RAMs are problematic. Had a brake caliper lock up on me and totally cooked the RF pads and rotor. When I figure out that stink was my truck I pulled into a gas station. Smoke was boiling out of the RF wheel and everyone thought the truck was on fire. I always change brake pads and rotors as a set and had replaced them along with new wheel bearing hubs about 8 months before.

Geez! That’s scary! I thought about wheel bearings too but that’s outta my league...


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[Dr. Righteous]

Geez! That’s scary! I thought about wheel bearings too but that’s outta my league...
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Yeah, I thought they were also until I got a mechanics quote to replace the front wheel bearing hubs on the 2004 Durango we had. $1500.
I quickly decide to become an expert at it.

Really the only difficult thing about front wheel bearing hubs is the likely hood they are seized in the steering knuckle. So I wrote this:

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/seized-wheel-bearing-hub-most-useful-tool-ever.147178/

 

[Addicted2fishing]

Yeah, I thought they were also until I got a mechanics quote to replace the front wheel bearing hubs on the 2004 Durango we had. $1500.
I quickly decide to become an expert at it.

Really the only difficult thing about front wheel bearing hubs is the likely hood they are seized in the steering knuckle. So I wrote this:

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/seized-wheel-bearing-hub-most-useful-tool-ever.147178/

Thank you!!


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[BWL]

Didn't realize it was the rear that failed on you, but that makes sense since that's what fails on all my rams. The e-brake pads are likely rotted out as well and if you're going to replace those then get the new hardware kit as well. I bought some powerstop coated e-brake pads supposedly to help prevent corrosion, but time will tell if they hold up. It's hard to get hands in there, but can be done without axle removal. I also find the rear brakes wear out way before the front.

 

[Addicted2fishing]

Didn't realize it was the rear that failed on you, but that makes sense since that's what fails on all my rams. The e-brake pads are likely rotted out as well and if you're going to replace those then get the new hardware kit as well. I bought some powerstop coated e-brake pads supposedly to help prevent corrosion, but time will tell if they hold up. It's hard to get hands in there, but can be done without axle removal. I also find the rear brakes wear out way before the front.

No no. That’s a separate issue I have to deal with from last year lol. My list is getting to be a pile


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