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Oh I can tell you there is a TREMENDOUS difference in distance between high and low..I'll get some beam shots tomorrow but the lows I have adjusted such that they are at low window level and when shining down a street may be light up 25 yards or so with strict elevation cut off however same street with highs on and I can see a street sign I well over 100 yards away as well as all the trees between me and the sign!
On the current version you and I have of the modify street lights they are blank, in the picture it somewhat looks like screws..that and the fact it says beam adjustable...gonna have to wait till someone has them..already 85 sold, almost gone! Had I seen them I may have opted for them there has to be a reason they are 100$ more than the standard ones...other than the switchbacks...
Those are modifystreet headlights, so most likely are the v2. Geesh, now I want them, I see it has dual white drl too! Is odd though, in add shows the blacked out and normal ones, if only the side marker was silver or tinted, it would be ideal.
Are you saying on one side the cutoff line is level, and the other side the cutoff line is going slightly up or downhill? If so, it’s not the way the LEDs are installed, it’s because the projector itself is rotated a little. There’s no adjustment for that unless you open them up. I hardly ever use my highs, but now that you mention it, I’m going to do a bunch of testing this weekend while I still have mine opened up and if mine are high, I can shim them down. Otherwise, with the adjustment screw on them now, the high and low adjust concurrently since they’re both mounted to the same bracket.
Like 1500ram12 said, those are the vents. Mine have rubber caps in there that have pieces of mesh inside to absorb moisture.See pics below..
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For those that have factory projectors that want these, here’s an easy conversion harness you can make. The headlights already come with one third of the parts- this little extension harness (circled)-
Here it is by itself- cut the yellow circled end off-
Here’s the 3157 bulb socket pigtails that goes into the socket holes on the new lights- https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Pre-Wired-Harness-Repair-Replacement/dp/B01GP6B9WA/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=iJDMTOY+(2)+3156+3157+Pre-Wired+Harness+Sockets+For+Repair,+Replacement,+Install+LED+Bulbs+For+Turn+Signal+Lights,+DRL+Lamps+or+Brake/Tail+Lights&qid=1553571390&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull
And here’s the male projector harness mating connector (2 sets)(thanks for the link @1500ram12)- https://www.amazon.com/headlights-1J0973837-lamp-socket-Headlight-connector/dp/B07LD6C2R1?th=1&psc=1
And you’ll need two 10” lengths of 18awg wire with two female bullet connectors for the DRL wire (not sure what size, I had some red ones laying around that fit).
Then just crimp the appropriate male projector connector terminals on the ends of the wires (pay attention because some wires get small terminals and some get the large terminals), and insert them into the correct numbered pin positions.
Note: in order for the DRLs to function with this wiring method, the dedicated DRLs need to be enabled with the alfaobd. Otherwise, don’t pin the red wire into the projector connector, and use a relay harness to trigger them.
The eBay listing says switchbacks, but nothing about sequential, I asked the same question but until someone gets them will be hard to say..but I would sure hope so being they are 150$ more than standard ones..and for just switchbacks that's steep..
So mine are for the most part leds left and right. I parked 25 feet from a piece of plywood and adjusted them from there. right at the "cut of shelf" adjust them to where there is no "Glitter effect" or until it's a nice sharp cut and no light bleed.
