Auto Start/Stop and potential alternator issue?

[turkeybird56]

Ok, update from dealership...
1. misfire is because of a bad coil pack. They are going to get warranty approval and replace that under warranty ($100 deductible).
2. they say that I am due for spark plugs at 100k, to the tune of something like $2500 due to the complexity. OUCH! They offerred to do them now, but I said to hold off. Can't afford that right now, and will do them at 100k.
3. the service advisor said that the low voltage is normal as part of the etorque system as it regulates when the batteries need voltage and ramps up output as needed
4. he said that it could be the hood latch switch that is causing an issue also, but that is a pricey repair also if needed (once the coil pack is replaced they will see if anything else gets flagged while testing)

So long story short, it looks like they are going to replace the bad coil, and see what happens. If it doesn't get replaced, I'll try to clean the hood latch switch to maybe eliminate that as a potential issue.

Comments are welcome on any of these items...

Thanks,

Joe

The BCM on the non E torque 5.7L's which I have regulates the amount of charge needed. If I saw a 12.7 reading on a battery, ie., no charge at all, I would be concerned. But, E Torque, and you know the MGU unit charges the 48V battery behind the rear seat and is stepped down mechanically to charge the 12V battery. Since I do not have E TQ, I cannot say whether or not, but I can only say I have NEVA heard of an alternator just not charging at all. But alas, other PPL a lot better on electrical/charging systems and knowledge of/have E torque need to chime in.

Glad they R covering the coil pack on yer truck.
Hood latch causing an issue, that's a hmmmmmmmmmm. (maybe) (my opinion not count)
Removing a Bracket and charging U $2500 to change 16 spark plugs, hope you not harvesting turnips, just saying. The engine is as far as I know the same whether E TQ or not, just some of the electrical along with MGU is the differing item, here.

But do as U see fit OP and yer wallet allows. NEVA assume Internet Guessnosis is the way U should go. Research and get all the facts and make an informed decision. I sure as heck would call other dealerships and get a Price they would charge for plug replacement: They talking just plugs, or all new coil packs also, etc, U need details.

All above IMHO only.

 

[turkeybird56]

This is a little long but it shows what a PITA this is....
My experience with Auto Start/Stop is with my '18 Jeep Grand Cherokee.....
I hated it from the get go and after awhile figured out how to stop the vehicle without engaging it...great for me...
As the miles racked up over 6+ years I noticed that when the wife drove it didn't engage either but didn't think much about it.
Pretty soon my key fob stopped functioning other than to start the vehicle....she never used the functions, remote start, lock, unlock etc.....just touch the handles to open and lock it.
Did the battery change deal and no change.

So I go to get a new fob and ended up having the lock shop go through three and still not work right.

I gave up since the wife's seemed to work for her starting and stopping the car.

I go out after the third try for a fob and the car is dead.

Now at this point I didn't even know it had two batteries.
I replaced both batteries ($500+) and lo and behold everything is working like new, remote start, Auto Start/Stop etc.

Unless these newer vehicles get the right amount of juice, the electrical gremlins show up en masse.
I first experienced the strange electrical problems with my motorcycle.....if the battery isn't up to specs, all kinds of error codes are thrown and it can turn over the motor and never fire thanks to the electronics...

I've also read three articles about the Auto Start/Stop costing folks more than they save.

Yup, a lot of PPL do not know on FCA stop/start there are 2 batteries: The main 12V and the smaller one, not know how many volts, but IIRC, is a 450 CCA battery. And that is not even taking into account E TQ.

 

[DanAR]

Service adviser said that there is a bracket in the way making the plug replacement a 7 hour job...I nearly fell off my chair. He said I have until 100k miles to do them, so I have some time to shop it around. I may even attempt to do them on my own (I've done plugs in the past before).

Anyone else have experiences similar to mine with eTorque and voltage output? DanAR said he has, but just want to make sure I get this resolved if needed before my extended warranties expire.

Thanks,

Joe

Since I replied to this I started checking my voltage gauge some again out of curiosity and so far I have not seen it drop to the 12 volt range like it did when I first bought the truck. So now I’m not sure what to think about that. It seems to be staying in the 13.4 to 13.7 range. I’ll keep an eye on it for awhile to see if it does this anymore.

That spark plug change video is horrifying. I thought plugs were bad on my Lightning pickup but that’s several times worse. Reminder to self to trade or sell before 100 k if not before. Even for 7 hrs work and 16 plugs, a $2,500 charge should require they hold a gun to your head while you sign the ticket.

 

[jshabouk]

I appreciate all the responses. I'm not sure what to make of the etorque anymore other than it is severely over engineered.

Regarding the plugs, no way I'm paying that much. Wasnt born yesterday. Seems very high.

 

[Wild one]

It is not a 7 hour job to do spark plugs because of a bracket. There is a video on YT that shows how to do plugs on a truck like yours. Your service dept is going for the grift big time!

Post said link to video,so people can find it

 

[jshabouk]

Link was in an earlier post in the thread. Link is as follows:

Replacing the spark plugs - 2019-2024 Ram 1500 Hemi E-torque

The truck featured in this video is a 2019 but this proceeded should be the same for all 5.7 e-torque Hemi engines (2019-2024). Plugs (16 needed): https://am...

www.youtube.com

 

[TRK_GANG74]

Post said link to video,so people can find it

Here you go!

🔧 Replacing the spark plugs - 2019-2024 Ram 1500 Hemi E-torque

The truck featured in this video is a 2019 but this proceeded should be the same for all 5.7 e-torque Hemi engines (2019-2024). Plugs (16 needed): https://am...

youtu.be

 

[Wild one]

Here you go!

🔧 Replacing the spark plugs - 2019-2024 Ram 1500 Hemi E-torque

The truck featured in this video is a 2019 but this proceeded should be the same for all 5.7 e-torque Hemi engines (2019-2024). Plugs (16 needed): https://am...

youtu.be

Man you should really read the posts bud,i already posted that video way back on post #15,i thought you'd found another video that showed another way of doing the plugs on an e-torque

 

[TRK_GANG74]

I was posting between work today.

 

[jshabouk]

Okay, latest update in this new saga. I picked up my truck last night and everything seemed to be working just fine. They replaced the coil for cylinder 2 and everything was working great. No dashboard lights.

This morning, I started to truck up and the auto stop stop service light came on. After driving a little bit it threw another check engine light and when scanning it's coming through as p219b. They said it's an issue with the air mix ratio, but they don't know why. Heading back to the dealership next monday as they need to do more diagnosis.

Has anyone ever had to deal with this error code and any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[jshabouk]

Ok all, latest update as of 08/04/2025

Last Friday (08/01), CEL came on and was flashing. Spoke to dealership told me to get it into them, and I had it towed in. Scans were completed, and they say that now, there are misfires in 4 different cylinders, but compression testing is ok and everything looks good from the engine side of things upon physical inspection. After a replacement of a bad coil earlier last week, it is very unusual for 4 cylinders' worth of spark plugs to just go bad at the same time and pretty much kills the "bad spark plug" hypothesis they threw around as the ultimate cause.

Verdict from the dealership is now it is either (1) bad PCM, or (2) fuel contamination.

Bad PCM
In their words, a bad PCM (or one on its way out) would explain the random misfires (P03** codes), and bad air/fuel mix ratio code (P219B) if the module is not getting or misinterpreting the signals from the many engine sensors. So, they are getting extended warranty approval for a new PCM, will order, and install it. Based on paperwork, it is covered by my policy.

Fuel contamination
Not sure about that since I always use name brand gas and swap between Gulf, Sunoco, Mobil depending on where I am filling up. Not necessarily covered, but we will address that if needed.

Fingers crossed...again...

Question to the group - Anyone had their PCM go bad like this? Anyone seen issues like this from a bad PCM?

Thanks again to all for your comments. I've never had a major car issue like this with any of the 6 vehicles I have owned. You guys are keeping me sane during this crazy time.

 

[Dean2]

Open fuse box in the engine compartment. Press down gently on every fuse and relay. I would bet at least 1/3 will click into place and aren't fully seated. This issue has been know to cause a ton of gremlins. May not fix your issues, but it sure won't hurt.

I am to the stage where I prefer to pay someone to do plug changes etc, but to save $2,500 I would most definitely be doing that change over my self.

Hope they find your misfire. Have you tried adding a cleaner to the fuel, dirty injectors and gunk in the lines has been known to cause misfires.

 

[jshabouk]

@Dean2 Thanks for your response.

The truck is at the dealership currently, so I can't check the fuses. I'll definitely check both fuse boxes and do that when I get the truck back.

I am in the same boat with the plugs. I would attempt it, but with that #7 cylinder being in the back and blocked by so many components in a tight space (because of eTorque components), I'm better off paying someone. Plus, after speaking to 3 other places, I got prices of $1,200-$1,300 from two different dealerships (iridium plugs + 3 hours labor), and a max price of $850 from a mechanic friend of mine who would do the plugs at his shop (iridium plugs + 3 hours labor). Much better than spending an extra $2,500 for routine maintenance!

I have added fuel cleaner recently, but it was about 6 tanks of gas ago. The fuel contamination theory is a long shot by them, but given that I alternate my gas purchases, not sure if it makes much sense (but who knows).

Thanks very much!

 

[jshabouk]

Ok, here we go again...

Latest update...truck needs a new PCM. Ok, great! Not really. Part is backordered until who knows when. Request was made in the dealer pipeline, no response yet. Ram Care could expedite if dealership requests it. And now they are trying to work on maybe getting me a loaner. To say I'm ticked is the understatement of the year.

THIS IS UNBELIEVEABLE!!!! Suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[jshabouk]

Update 2 - part is on the way from another dealership. Hoping that it comes in within the 2-3 day timeframe and this finally resolves the issues. I do miss my truck. Driving an SUV isn't nearly as fun.

Thanks to all.

 

[Wild one]

Update 2 - part is on the way from another dealership. Hoping that it comes in within the 2-3 day timeframe and this finally resolves the issues. I do miss my truck. Driving an SUV isn't nearly as fun.

Thanks to all.

One of the causes of 219B are loose intake manifold bolts.It's very common to have the intake bolts lose torque on the hemi's.They call for 108 in-lbs or roughly 9 ft-lbs of torque.

Check your intake manifold bolts

This hasn't been talked about for awhile,but check your intake manifold bolts.They call for 108 in-lbs or roughly 9 ft-lbs of torque,and they should be checked at least yearly,as they do loosen up. I've been doing mine at least twice a year on all 3 of of my hemi equipped vehicles.They should be...

www.ramforum.com

 

[RamDiver]

Update 2 - part is on the way from another dealership. Hoping that it comes in within the 2-3 day timeframe and this finally resolves the issues. I do miss my truck. Driving an SUV isn't nearly as fun.

Thanks to all.

As soon as someone informed me that a device, which is primarily a digital-based piece of electronics, was starting to have problems and creating intermittent DTCs, I would waste no time getting my truck away from them ASAP.

Chances are, they are incompetent and incapable of troubleshooting anything beyond a soft tire.

These devices are usually a go or no-go, not "on the way out," and showing signs of intermittent failure. Intermittent behaviour is almost always a result of the peripheral connections.

Connectors get oxidized, disconnected, displaced pins or damaged, chaffed or damaged wiring, TIPM-related faults or sensors.

I'm sorry to hear of your grief and of how these fools are responding. These instances seem to happen quite regularly in recent years. We see these happenings almost daily, and very few have a happy ending.

Fortunately, they are covering these repairs under warranty, but this could be a long road before you get satisfaction.

Also, please keep in mind that they will invent excuses to justify their actions. In other words, while they say PCM, they might change it and then repair the true peripheral fault and hide those details.

.

 

[jshabouk]

@RamDiver they did tell me yesterday that if it isn't this, it had to be the spark plugs. They are still harping on that! They did compression testing again, which requires taking the plugs out. Why not offer to do it for me while taking them out? (I know, they want as much money as they can get) As long as things are covered under warranty, go for it, but make it quick... my patience is wearing thin.

Also, they told me it couldn't be any sensors because there are no trouble codes. I truly believe that is an ignorant statement and it is possible for a sensor to not throw a code and be faulty. But I'm just the guy who works with computers and electronics all day for a living. Lol!

Let's just say that this is their last chance. If it isn't the pcm, I'm demanding to pick up my truck and taking it elsewhere. I'm done with this and them. And Ram Cares will hear about it as they have an open case on this.

After replacing a coil, a fuel injector, claiming there are multiple misfires (when my scan tool only showed one), changing out a pcm, not taking advantage of additional technical resources (star techs provided by ram)...this is like throwing crap at a wall and seeing what sticks.

I'm hopeful, but who knows at this point.

Update: apparently, the pcm came in today and they were installing it, programming and testing. Fingers crossed...

 

[jshabouk]

Ok... the saga continues...

New PCM in...still has a misfire in cylinders 2 and 7. I was told they are eating the cost of the PCM since it didn't work. Compression is still fine, everything tests ok otherwise.

Next test is going to be the fuel injectors. Swap injectors on cylinders 2 and 7 with others, reset codes and see if the misfire moves. (At least they said the Star techs are helping them now as to the diagnostic steps.)

If fuel injectors are working properly and misfires don't move, the next step is to open the engine and look for internal issues (cylinders, springs, lifters, camshaft).

Regarding taking the truck someplace else, I was advised that doing so would require them staying over again and starting with Star techs from scratch. Is that true? This is all covered under warranty, so nothing out of pocket for me. But I just want the truck fixed!

Questions for the group...
1. Could the fuel rails themselves be clogged or damaged?
2. What is the path the fuel goes when entering the rails? I thought i read somewhere that it enters passenger side at 8, goes up the rail to 2, then crosses over to the driver's side at 1, then down that rail to 7. Is that true? If so, could it be a coincidence that the two problem cylinders are at the end of the fuel paths on the rails? I'm spitballing here (if my information is accurate).
3. Someone told me that the fuel rails are metallic and coated internally and if a piece of that coating broke off, it could be causing a problem like a blockage. Is that even possible?

Thanks again.

Joe

 

[RamDiver]

Too bad, it sounds like they're playing the guessing game. As expected.

With troubleshooting skills like that, who knows when they will stumble on a solution.

I'd say fuel injectors & rails would be Rick's departure. @Wild one .

.