Auto Start/Stop and potential alternator issue?

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jshabouk

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Good Afternoon All,

Need some guidance here...

1. Primary truck battery was replaced 2 months ago after it was dead.

2. My auto start/stop service light has been coming on randomly over the last month, and the dealership told me it was a cylinder misfire that went away based on a stored code.

3. At the same time as #2, dealership found a second stored code for and replaced my active air dam motor which was bad.

Back to my new problem...when the auto start/stop service light came on again yesterday, I checked the voltage on the dash and it was at 12.7 while the truck was running. I thought this should be at 13.7 or so (confirmed with the dealership).

Question: Could my alternator be on its way out? It is covered by my extended warranty, so trying to confirm if I should make the appointment. Can an autozone or advance auto test the alternator to determine the output voltage?

Thanks,

Joe
 

DanAR

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My voltage sometimes goes to 12.7. I think it just means the battery is fully charged but could be wrong. I wondered about it too for awhile, but just stopped watching it.

Now I watch my tire pressure gauge and wonder why one tire won’t hold more than 33 or 34 psi. Sometimes too much information is a curse. :rolleyes:
 
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jshabouk

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Update on this...

CEL came on last night...misfire in cylinder 1. This is the exact same issue I had a month ago, when the purchasing dealership found a misfire in cylinder 8 (from a CEL) and the Active Air Dam system failed (secondary code), and they replaced the AAD, but could not find an issue with the misfire (after doing all diagnostics, swapping coils, etc).

Decided to do my own testing this morning before heading into work as I'm beyond frustrated and wanted more information before going to a different dealership tomorrow (I've lost faith in my purchasing dealer to fix my truck successfully).
1. Popped the hood, and pushed down on the trunk close plunger a bunch of times to maybe clean some debris out from it without removing and cleaning it properly with alcohol (no time this morning) and I had read in multiple threads that this plunger could wreak havoc with the Auto Stop Start
2. Started driving to work, CEL was still on, Auto Stop Start service light came on
3. Pulled over, turned off truck, sat for a minute, restarted, and continued to work
4. For the entire 20 mile trip to work, Auto Stop Start worked as supposed to, and voltage was at 13.8 the entire trip on the dashboard gauge (CEL is still lit up)

I'll do additional testing tonight on my way home. I'm wondering if the very high outside temps could be causing something here. Could connections be expanding/losing connection? New dealership is going to look at the alternator and the CEL tomorrow, but I'm hoping that this is not one of those intermittent issues that is going to make me look foolish.

Thoughts/comments are appreciated. Thanks.

Joe
 

DanAR

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I’m drawing a blank on this - “ trunk close plunger”?
 
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jshabouk

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Apologies...the hood close plunger/sensor. The thing that tells the truck if the hood is open.
 

DanAR

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Ok, and that thing is wired into the stop/start circuit somehow. That’s interesting.
 

turkeybird56

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Ok, and that thing is wired into the stop/start circuit somehow. That’s interesting.
Didn't know that was wired into stop/start? why? LOL.

Hood latch sensor directly related to REMOTE START: No remote start if hood ajar. Or if U remote start and Pop hood, engine shut down.

@jshabouk OP: Seriously sounds like your Alternator on the way out: It may be the enclosed Voltage Regulator May be going bad.

Most alternators stay in the 14 ish range when truck running. Mine will at times go down to 14.0 if battery really fully charged, but I normally not go below 14.2.
12.7V is a Fully Charged Battery reading, not with truck running and charging system working properly.

OP: Does your vehicle have E Torque? CAUSE that answer may change everything stated for answers and questions.

BTW, the Stop/Start System HAS A Secondary Battery, like a smaller battery near the 12V Battery, and the STOP/START battery may be bad also. (or not being charged).
Again, if you have E Torque this may change answers.
 
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jshabouk

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I do have etorque. Apologies I thought I put that earlier.
 

DanAR

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Like I said above, my 23 e-torque would often go to 12.6-12.7 volts during driving. I just assumed the 12 volt battery was fully charged and the 48 volt system sensed no need to charge it (?). Almost 2 years on it so far and no issues (except turn signal). But like I said, I stopped watching voltage levels after awhile.
 
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jshabouk

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Ok, update from dealership...
1. misfire is because of a bad coil pack. They are going to get warranty approval and replace that under warranty ($100 deductible).
2. they say that I am due for spark plugs at 100k, to the tune of something like $2500 due to the complexity. OUCH! They offerred to do them now, but I said to hold off. Can't afford that right now, and will do them at 100k.
3. the service advisor said that the low voltage is normal as part of the etorque system as it regulates when the batteries need voltage and ramps up output as needed
4. he said that it could be the hood latch switch that is causing an issue also, but that is a pricey repair also if needed (once the coil pack is replaced they will see if anything else gets flagged while testing)

So long story short, it looks like they are going to replace the bad coil, and see what happens. If it doesn't get replaced, I'll try to clean the hood latch switch to maybe eliminate that as a potential issue.

Comments are welcome on any of these items...

Thanks,

Joe
 

CanuckRam1313

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Ok, update from dealership...
1. misfire is because of a bad coil pack. They are going to get warranty approval and replace that under warranty ($100 deductible).
2. they say that I am due for spark plugs at 100k, to the tune of something like $2500 due to the complexity. OUCH! They offerred to do them now, but I said to hold off. Can't afford that right now, and will do them at 100k.
3. the service advisor said that the low voltage is normal as part of the etorque system as it regulates when the batteries need voltage and ramps up output as needed
4. he said that it could be the hood latch switch that is causing an issue also, but that is a pricey repair also if needed (once the coil pack is replaced they will see if anything else gets flagged while testing)

So long story short, it looks like they are going to replace the bad coil, and see what happens. If it doesn't get replaced, I'll try to clean the hood latch switch to maybe eliminate that as a potential issue.

Comments are welcome on any of these items...

Thanks,

Joe
$2,500 for 16 spark plugs... muther_of-god!

However, I don't know if it being e-torque presents different challenges to re & re spark plugs vs a standard 5.7.

Others much more knowledgeable than I will undoubtedly chime in there.

Although, at that mileage I agree that they need to be done and I would do them for sure, and soon.
 
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jshabouk

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Service adviser said that there is a bracket in the way making the plug replacement a 7 hour job...I nearly fell off my chair. He said I have until 100k miles to do them, so I have some time to shop it around. I may even attempt to do them on my own (I've done plugs in the past before).

Anyone else have experiences similar to mine with eTorque and voltage output? DanAR said he has, but just want to make sure I get this resolved if needed before my extended warranties expire.

Thanks,

Joe
 

Burla

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Service adviser said that there is a bracket in the way making the plug replacement a 7 hour job...I nearly fell off my chair. He said I have until 100k miles to do them, so I have some time to shop it around. I may even attempt to do them on my own (I've done plugs in the past before).

Anyone else have experiences similar to mine with eTorque and voltage output? DanAR said he has, but just want to make sure I get this resolved if needed before my extended warranties expire.

Thanks,

Joe
Like too many to count issues with e torque. Hemi and complicated plug installs is common, dealers are suffering, you can call it an over charge if you want wont break my heart, but they are trying to stay in business with a failing brand and they are milking it where they can.
 
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jshabouk

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I hear you Burla. eTorque seems like an utter disaster. Regarding the plugs, I'm sure I can get it done cheaper elsewhere.

For the $100 deductible on my extended warranty, the coil is being replaced. (Problem 1 solved)

If the voltage is truly regulated, it is behaving as it was designed. I don't understand why they did it that way, but if it is normal, so be it (Problem 2 solved).

As long as the Auto Stop start issue is resolved by this misfire being solved, I am good to go (Problem 3 solved potentially).
 

Wild one

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Doing the plugs on an e-torque Hemi is definitely more labour intensive then doing them on a non e-torque hemi.

 

Dusty

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EPA drops start/stop requirement:


Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 134403 miles.
 

RWlRAM

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This is a little long but it shows what a PITA this is....
My experience with Auto Start/Stop is with my '18 Jeep Grand Cherokee.....
I hated it from the get go and after awhile figured out how to stop the vehicle without engaging it...great for me...
As the miles racked up over 6+ years I noticed that when the wife drove it didn't engage either but didn't think much about it.
Pretty soon my key fob stopped functioning other than to start the vehicle....she never used the functions, remote start, lock, unlock etc.....just touch the handles to open and lock it.
Did the battery change deal and no change.

So I go to get a new fob and ended up having the lock shop go through three and still not work right.

I gave up since the wife's seemed to work for her starting and stopping the car.

I go out after the third try for a fob and the car is dead.

Now at this point I didn't even know it had two batteries.
I replaced both batteries ($500+) and lo and behold everything is working like new, remote start, Auto Start/Stop etc.

Unless these newer vehicles get the right amount of juice, the electrical gremlins show up en masse.
I first experienced the strange electrical problems with my motorcycle.....if the battery isn't up to specs, all kinds of error codes are thrown and it can turn over the motor and never fire thanks to the electronics...

I've also read three articles about the Auto Start/Stop costing folks more than they save.
 

TRK_GANG74

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Service adviser said that there is a bracket in the way making the plug replacement a 7 hour job...I nearly fell off my chair. He said I have until 100k miles to do them, so I have some time to shop it around. I may even attempt to do them on my own (I've done plugs in the past before).

Anyone else have experiences similar to mine with eTorque and voltage output? DanAR said he has, but just want to make sure I get this resolved if needed before my extended warranties expire.

Thanks,

Joe
It is not a 7 hour job to do spark plugs because of a bracket. There is a video on YT that shows how to do plugs on a truck like yours. Your service dept is going for the grift big time!
 

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