Before I pull valve covers...

[Mleads310]

2013 ram 1500 5.7 110k
Had a slight tick when I purchased but nothing loud that would've thrown up a red flag. I also have a 2018 Durango with a 5.7 and it was no louder than the 2018 when I purchased this truck. Trucks seem to be very well taken care of inside and out literally no rust in obvious places that you would normally see under the truck.
FYI I'm not very mechanically inclined. I'm very handy, but never work on engines.

Purchased the truck 3 months ago with 100k on it. No issues until last week, did an oil change (penz ultra syn 5-20) . Next day under load doing about 50mph and accelerating engine light came on for a second, same time engine started to misfire. Pulled over. Shut truck off/restarted and drove home gently with no issues. Next day, same thing. So came home pulled code for misfire #6. Plugs looked good, switched ign coil#6 with #4 and cleared code. I then repeated to drive to cause the code again hoping it would show misfire#4 and have the issue resolved with a new ign coil. Instead it read misfire#6 again.

So before I start looking for a remanufactured/rebuilt engine from Jasper or powertrain to have professionally installed, what can I (remember not very mechanically inclined but handy and I love learning from YouTube ) do to either rule out bad lifter/cam issue.

I just bought the truck and oee money on it so I'm already invested and the way things are with the market right now I honestly can't get another truck for nearly the price I got this one for. So new engine professionally installed or slim possibility of me replacing the lifters and cam depending on the price difference and the difficulty of doing the job would be in my future if I can't figure this out.
By the way I do have a tick which is pretty loud but it doesn't sound like it's coming from either side of the engine so I'm assuming it's the manifold bolts which I think I can tackle on my own regardless.

Thanks in advance

 

[tron67j]

First thing to do before putting a new engine in is to take truck to a reputable mechanic. You switched wires (?) but you left spark plug in 6, could be as simple as bad plug. But just getting a code from self diagnostic is only part of the story. If that told us what exactly was wrong who would need mechanics (joke there, I have them on speed dial). A tick could be so many things, I thought I had the Hemi problem, sounded so much like it but had three broken header bolts.

So find a good mechanic and let them go through the paces. That is the best thing to do.

Good luck.

 

[tron67j]

No idea why my response posted twice

 

[Mleads310]

Appreciate the quick reply. I'm planning on bringing the truck to a mechanic this weekend to look it over regardless, just trying to eliminate the basic things before getting there. I'll probably replace both plugs in #6 tomorrow just for good measure and see if that changes anything. Would've done it today but didn't have time to pick up the plugs.

Thank you again.

 

[NJMOPAR]

Check the wiring and connection at the #6 coil pack location. Make sure the pins are secure in the plug.

 

[Burla]

I'd just say this, price out a cam/lifter swap versus new engine in your area. You rfe will still be old unless you are updating that as well.

 

[NOV87]

I don't know if the 5w20 oil change could have contributed to it. Maybe, the previous owner was running heavier grade oil (5w30 or so so) or a bottle of Lubeguard with every oil change, to address the noise. It is possible, there was excessive cam lobe wear already present and adding very thin 5w20 oil was the final straw.
We have a number of people on this discussion forum, that swear by RedLine 5w30 oil thar fixed their HEMI tick. You may be past that point though. Instead of replacing the whole engine, I would have an independent shop replace cam and lifters. But that just me. Sorry about your trouble man and good luck. Let's see what more knowledgeable members have to say about it.

 

[Mleads310]

Appreciate all the responses and will be replacing plugs tomorrow along with looking over the connections at the coil pack.

I have a reputable mechanic local to me, Brooklyn NY, but I know for a fact other than diagnostic and basic work he won't tear into an engine too far. He just doesn't want that kind of work anymore as he's getting old. I'll be making phone calls for referrals this week. And keep everyone updated.

 

[MADDOG]

No idea why my response posted twice

Practicing your "double tap" using the computer instead of a SA pistol maybe?

 

[Mleads310]

Just a quick update I had to order the spark plugs because I didn't like the options locally. While I was at it I also ordered a full set of coil packs. I figure either way it's about time these all get replaced. Everything should be here by the weekend.

Might be a silly question but does this truck have a distributor cap? What's prior to the coil packs that distributes the timing in this truck?

 

[tidefan1967]

Just a quick update I had to order the spark plugs because I didn't like the options locally. While I was at it I also ordered a full set of coil packs. I figure either way it's about time these all get replaced. Everything should be here by the weekend.

Might be a silly question but does this truck have a distributor cap? What's prior to the coil packs that distributes the timing in this truck?

No distributor cap. The trucks wiring from the PCM goes to each coil pack and then mounts to each spark plug.

 

[JohnnyNez]

I had the same issue with my 2014 Ram sport
It had a ton of idle hours on it when I purchased it from the dealer, it also had 233,000km on it.
What I was to is that the engine block has a major design flaw because there is an oil gallery cast across the block under the cam shaft. The camshaft is lubricated by splash from the crank and the cast gallery is blocking splash from the camshaft at low rpm but at high rpm it gets some lubrication.
The dealer I took my truck to for diagnosis said they have replaced every camshaft and lifter in all the cop cars due to high idle hours and low rpm lubrication.
This should be a class action lawsuit against fiat chrysler, it's a bad engine design.
I replaced my engine with a remanufactured one and I decided to tear mine down and inspect it and sure enough it has this massive cast oil gallery right below the cam.
I had cylinder 5 lifters and camshaft damage.
I hope this helps and I try not to idle my truck as much as possible.

 

[Dusty]

I had the same issue with my 2014 Ram sport
It had a ton of idle hours on it when I purchased it from the dealer, it also had 233,000km on it.
What I was to is that the engine block has a major design flaw because there is an oil gallery cast across the block under the cam shaft. The camshaft is lubricated by splash from the crank and the cast gallery is blocking splash from the camshaft at low rpm but at high rpm it gets some lubrication.
The dealer I took my truck to for diagnosis said they have replaced every camshaft and lifter in all the cop cars due to high idle hours and low rpm lubrication.
This should be a class action lawsuit against fiat chrysler, it's a bad engine design.
I replaced my engine with a remanufactured one and I decided to tear mine down and inspect it and sure enough it has this massive cast oil gallery right below the cam.
I had cylinder 5 lifters and camshaft damage.
I hope this helps and I try not to idle my truck as much as possible.

Doesn't sound right. Since oil can't repel gravity (go up) I'm sure that the gallery is for catching oil.

I looked at the 5.7 Hemi lubrication schematic and the camshaft lobes are lubricated by the lifter, in other words the lifters are under pressure and oil leaving the lifter lubricates the lifter roller and then the camshaft lobe.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33 gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 03 June 2018. Now at: 038390 miles.

 

[Mleads310]

Okay another update sorry took so long to get back to everybody. Few days ago I replaced all the spark plugs, all the coil packs and even the fuel injector for #6 itself. Still having the same issue, misfire #6. It's weird because it only happens when I floor it at about 7krpm and 60+ mph. Trying to think if it's worth replacing anything else such as the MDS sensors and/or the PCM/ecm. Worst case I may just ride this truck until the engine blows up because I'm literally having no other issues with the engine. I rarely ever floor it.

And take manifold bolts definitely need to be replaced so I may just do that to get rid of the sound itself coming from that area.

 

[46RamMan]

Yea 7K rpm ?? What for? for pete's sake... 6K rpm is stretching it.. Unless you are at Nascar truck racing

 

[Mleads310]

Ok maybe it was a hair over 6k. I have this entrance into the pkwy where you have to gun it to get on. It's the only way I ever found out about this issue in the first place.

Other than that I do not drive this truck hard at all.

 

[Wild one]

Ok maybe it was a hair over 6k. I have this entrance into the pkwy where you have to gun it to get on. It's the only way I ever found out about this issue in the first place.

Other than that I do not drive this truck hard at all.

If it's untuned it should be shifting about 5600/5700 and it'll hit the limiter at roughly 106/107 mph

 

[Mleads310]

This truck is a stock 2013 sport with 3.92 gears 6 speed transmission. Never had her above 90mph and shifts pretty smooth for the 6 speed (I have a DDSRT and the 8 speed is silky smooth).

Back to my dilemma. Is there anything else I should be changing mds etc before going forward?

 

[TheEnder]

This truck is a stock 2013 sport with 3.92 gears 6 speed transmission. Never had her above 90mph and shifts pretty smooth for the 6 speed (I have a DDSRT and the 8 speed is silky smooth).

Back to my dilemma. Is there anything else I should be changing mds etc before going forward?

If your truck is managing to hit 6 or somehow 7K without a tune a ticking engine is the least of your worries.


Sent from Blue Onyx

 

[Octane]

Had a friend with a pro stock camaro long ago.He had it revved up high and a valve broke loose,tore a hole in piston and he mounted that valve on a wall mount in his shop.

 

[Nova John]

All stock the truck should shift at 5,600 and if it goes even 100 rpm higher it should hit the rev limiter. It also has a 4,000 rev limit in neutral. When I put exhaust and intake on my 2011 had the truck jacked up and reved it a little and didn't know it even had a 4,000 limit when not in gear until it cut out at 4,000 rpm. with stock exhaust and intake it wouldn't rev to 4,000 that easily. With programmer it now shifts 1st and 2nd at 6,000 then rest of shifts at 5,600.