BioTech LubeGuard

[Tim Garceau]

Run your normal interval with the lubegard and have it analyzed. A lot of you will be able to go 7500 miles easily with a group 3 oil.

I probably hammer down a good 3-5 miles every 40 mile commute and my PUP with lubegard Blackstone report was superb after 7000.

can’t wait to try the rotella mix

 

[AE5548]

Do you have hemi tick at all?

Not that i can tell.

 

[Burla]

Not that i can tell.

I asked because your strategy is mixing two ester based products. I personally would only do that if I was dealing with a nasty tick. I'd suggest either using redline by itself, or lubegard and any oil you choose. Other high moly oils are truck and gas by rotella, qsud and amsoil. It is up to you, but unlike most additives too much esters can be bad for seals. Redline by itself is no risk as 100's of guys here have been running it, but mixing ester products is a risk.

 

[16RamHemi]

Ill admit up front i did not read all the posts in here. I have been running lubeguard in my last 2 oci. TBH i havent noticed anything out of the ordinary for benefits. My thought was to see if it would help with my cold temp start up chatter. it didnt really do anything. i continued to run it as i had a few bottles and figured it couldnt hurt anything. Last 2 uoas with Redline 5w30 have been excellent with low wear numbers. First uoa was 7300 miles and second was 8400. Blackstone said i could go to 10k. currently at 88k miles. next oci i will run just redline and see if there are any changes.

So recently ive purchased a new home and used my truck to move. this obviously entails a lot of starting, shut off, move, start, shut off etc. We all know this tends to be an issue with these trucks and start up tick. Prior to this move, i very rarely got any start up tick after switching to redline. after doing all the moving stuff, and now how i park at my new home, im kinda seeing a relationship to a short back up before shutting down that leads to a more common start up tick. for example. pull into driveway, then back up 10-20 feet in front of home or garage. then shut down. This small back up has shown me that relationship. If i avoid this back up and back up in the morning there is no start up tick.

would love to hear if anyone else has seen this. if not, maybe start paying attention and watching for it.

 

[Burla]

Ill admit up front i did not read all the posts in here. I have been running lubeguard in my last 2 oci. TBH i havent noticed anything out of the ordinary for benefits. My thought was to see if it would help with my cold temp start up chatter. it didnt really do anything. i continued to run it as i had a few bottles and figured it couldnt hurt anything. Last 2 uoas with Redline 5w30 have been excellent with low wear numbers. First uoa was 7300 miles and second was 8400. Blackstone said i could go to 10k. currently at 88k miles. next oci i will run just redline and see if there are any changes.

So recently ive purchased a new home and used my truck to move. this obviously entails a lot of starting, shut off, move, start, shut off etc. We all know this tends to be an issue with these trucks and start up tick. Prior to this move, i very rarely got any start up tick after switching to redline. after doing all the moving stuff, and now how i park at my new home, im kinda seeing a relationship to a short back up before shutting down that leads to a more common start up tick. for example. pull into driveway, then back up 10-20 feet in front of home or garage. then shut down. This small back up has shown me that relationship. If i avoid this back up and back up in the morning there is no start up tick.

would love to hear if anyone else has seen this. if not, maybe start paying attention and watching for it.

Congrats on new home.

Whatever works, my old school habit was to always let my vehicle idle a tad before shutting off. I don't think that is a good idea with the hemi. However, a couple guys have brought this up, gunning a hemi into high rpm's plus having a higher sump level works to sometimes kill hemi tick.

So just maybe before shutting off our hemi's we should run the rpm's to 3500 for a couple seconds and then shut off the truck. Especially since most people are in low rpm's prior to stopping trucks as usually you travel through town to get to your home, thus lower rpm's then say someone who lived on a freeway. I think from what we know now, higher rpm lubricates hemi lifters better then low rpm's, by a lot. My hemi tick is completely gone, haven't heard it in along while, but if I get it back again this is what I will do for sure, hit 3500 rpm's in park for 5 seconds before shutting off.

 

[AE5548]

I asked because your strategy is mixing two ester based products. I personally would only do that if I was dealing with a nasty tick. I'd suggest either using redline by itself, or lubegard and any oil you choose. Other high moly oils are truck and gas by rotella, qsud and amsoil. It is up to you, but unlike most additives too much esters can be bad for seals. Redline by itself is no risk as 100's of guys here have been running it, but mixing ester products is a risk.

Thank you for the info. Ill stick with Redline only then.

 

[Tim Garceau]

Now that you’ve figured out photos, let’s see your nitrous setup! I’m on the fence with a 50-75 shot that Jay can shut off at 100(Km/hr). *wink

 

[Hookedup87]

As per Burlas very informative and convincing threads, I just switched up to Redline 5w30 from Redline 5w20. I’m also running an SRT filter and a 15oz bottle of Biotech.

 

[Hookedup87]

Engine is super quiet and super smooth, but from reading some prior posts now, not sure how I missed it originally, it’s overkill and somewhat risky to run Biotech with Redline? Is that correct? Just want clarification so next oil change I can leave the Biotech out.

 

[Wild one]

Now that you’ve figured out photos, let’s see your nitrous setup! I’m on the fence with a 50-75 shot that Jay can shut off at 100(Km/hr). *wink

Not much to see Tim,it's all out of sight or diguised to look like factory lines.I can show a pic of the stand-alone fuel cell and relocated battery in the box though.

Fuel cell up front/battery at the back





The only thing that sticks out,is the adjustable fuel pressure regulator mounted to the back side of my airbox,and is for the stand alones fuel pressure

 

[Wild one]

This is my pavement princess Tim,lol.You can see the relocation brackets for the rear diff in this pic.

 

[Tim Garceau]

clean, sleeper, bottle in cab? How are you triggering, window switch?

 

[Wild one]

clean, sleeper, bottle in cab? How are you triggering, window switch?

Yup master arming switch in the console,and wide open window switch. Bottle's behind the seat under a suitcase,lol.****** pic,but the bottle is out of site to,lol

 

[Burla]

Engine is super quiet and super smooth, but from reading some prior posts now, not sure how I missed it originally, it’s overkill and somewhat risky to run Biotech with Redline? Is that correct? Just want clarification so next oil change I can leave the Biotech out.

In the interest of testing stuff I did it as well, so I'm not that worried about it personally, but there is some risk yes. It's just an unkown quantity that may be unnecessary. Something to consider in the future as opposed to worrying about it the current mix. We have no long term info on it.

 

[Burla]

I'll email dave later and get maybe an answer.

 

[Fitz-0518]

I have come to the conclusion (only my POV) that when we run Redline, Amsoil, etc Teir 1 oils. We are running the best oil being made today. Their base oil and additive packages are engineered and designed to achieve specific lubricating results.
I do not have enough chemical degree's to know or say that adding a additive improves their lubrication results.
On the flip side of that conclusion. If I were running a Teir 2 common use, must change at 3000-5000 miles oil, I would then use an additive to supplement protection. Fitz

 

[PoMansRam]

I have come to the conclusion (only my POV) that when we run Redline, Amsoil, etc Teir 1 oils. We are running the best oil being made today. Their base oil and additive packages are engineered and designed to achieve specific lubricating results.
I do not have enough chemical degree's to know or say that adding a additive improves their lubrication results.
On the flip side of that conclusion. If I were running a Teir 2 common use, must change at 3000-5000 miles oil, I would then use an additive to supplement protection. Fitz

Fitz, that's my take 100% and Burla suggested it on the onset of this discussion.

I honestly wouldn't bother with these additives if you're running the oils you list. Running the cheap ass supertech and $3 oil filters like I do? I'm happy to add Biogaurd, etc.

 

[Burla]

Adding oil soluble moly to redline isn't the bad move, as old redline used to have 300ppm more moly then current redline. The good news is it seams the 500ppm moly does as good as the 880ppm moly as far as hemi tick. But there is the ester value thing, it would be less risk for someone to find a non ester based oil soluble moly additive, something I am not aware of existing.

 

[Fitz-0518]

Fitz, that's my take 100% and Burla suggested it on the onset of this discussion.

I honestly wouldn't bother with these additives if you're running the oils you list. Running the cheap ass supertech and $3 oil filters like I do? I'm happy to add Biogaurd, etc.

Smart

 

[Matt ott]

I just used Lubegard and Castrol 0w40 in 16 powerwagon, did NOT have a tick but my oli temp. runs about 219F in Arizona which is hot as hell, I have not seen any decrease in oil temps so far but engine is quiet and smooth, coolant temp is aprox. 206F and trans aprox 170 on a 100degree day which we have everyday this month of August. No clatter on start up, but will see when it gets cold, I will use it in my wifes new 2020 Tundra as well, will let all know how it works out.