Delving into the oil/tick/additive discussion.

[Granitstate]

Ok so I've given myself 3 strokes going thru the forums as a guest looking into how to best keep my hemi (2019 Ram 1500 classic 4x4, no e-torque) happy and smooth.
While I am overwhelmed by the science behind the use of different oils and additives and targeting products with certain additive packs and base oils, I've more or less developed a plan on how to go forward with the preventative maintenance.
First of all. I'm just a hair over 21,000mi. Most (70%) of my driving is rural state highways (hilly and windy roads, 45-55mph) 20% in-town piddling around/stop and go <35mph and 10% interstate (65mph+)
With a very small amount of driving being cold start to hard and or fast driving (volunteer firefighter).
Dropped factory fill at 1500ish with 5k mile OCI thereafter
1. PUP 5w20 and Fram Ultra xg10575
2. Shell rotella gas truck 5w20, Wix regular filter
3. (Current fill) Shell rotella gas truck 5w20 Fram Ultra xg10575
Been running 91 octane non-ethanol gas (from a top-tier station) since day 1 more or less
So going forward my plan is to keep the 5k mile OCI running PUP 5w20, Fram ultra xg10575 (unless I can find a bigger fram ultra or an equivalent with the same 99% 20micron filtration rate to keep all the oil galleys and solenoids clean) and 20oz of Lubeguard bio/tech per OCI
I know that the design leaves a lot to chance as to whether my valve train goes ticky and I have noticed it very subtle at times. Usually starting after a short trip, especially hot days while idling, and I've had some pretty loud clanking for 2-3sec after the truck has sat for several days.
Fwiw I'm not in a position to get redline from a brick-and-mortar nor shell out that kinda money for online sourcing.
Happy to provide more info and variables bit is there anything more I could be doing or things I could change to reduce my chances of having the valve train follows the dreaded path of cam failure.
Thanks, and sorry for being an uninitiated new guy

 

[kurek]

oil rituals are hilarious... really just 5kish oil change intervals with any name brand oil that meets manufacturer specifications & just not abusing the vehicle will give you the best odds of a long life.

I don't like idling any vehicle when it's not necessary so I don't do the remote start stuff or using the cab as an air conditioned office to hang out in.. load is low during idle but so is oil pressure/volume & it's engine running time that doesn't show up on miles when you're doing mileage-based oil change intervals. Anyway that's just my opinion like I said oil rituals are hilarious everyone's got their own recipe and everyone's right at the same time

 

[Rlaf75]

With my 2011 Ram I changed the oil when the message on the dash lit up and I used Napa 5w20 blend and a Napa Gold oil filter because I have a Napa store within 15 minutes in any direction I drive and I never had any issues at all. I plan on doing the exact same thing with my new 2021 Ram I bought last week.

 

[Travelin Ram]

Chill. Get off the social media echo chamber crazy train.

 

[Burla]

Welcome to the forum, I would not worry about hemi tick unless you get hemi tick, and if you would like to check how your hemi is doing you can get a used oil analysis at some point. Other then that, you can choose to follow what fca does with their lubrication using a hemi specific oil by using a high moy oil. If your lifters tick at start up, moly coats them and in most cases alleviates the issue. Enjoy your truck, most hemi's wont need extra attention, but in the case of hemi tick you found the only forum that has solved it with lubrication and over 100 members who took place in it. People w/o hemi tick don't understand so they post non sense in oil threads, never mind that. Then when they get hemi tick they follow what we have done and are grateful, go figure. Don't use moly in suspension additives, if you want an additive l u b e g a r d biotech is the only known oil soluble moly additive.

 

[BadHemi2014]

Welcome to the forum!
Listen to Burla, our resident oil guru .
Your plan sounds fine, my take on all this is to use any decent oil, frankly Wallyworld SuperTech is probably good enough, change around 6K or so, add the aforementioned L ubeguard Biotech for extra insurance if you like, and use a good filter like the FramXG you mentioned.
I will add that I use Royal Purple 20-820 filter, it's bigger and also increases oil pressure. In my truck it raised it about 10 psi, for example warm idle was ~37psi, with RP filter it's ~47psi. But every hemi is a little different.
Enjoy the beast, have fun and drive her hard, I think these engines really want to be worked.

I will confess that I use Redline 5W30, but I bought my truck at 106K miles as an exfleet truck with extremely high idle hours (over 4700!) and it did develop a nasty tick but also has several broken manifold bolts. The Redline did quiet the engine down, I won't know the health of the lifters until my speed shop guy can finally get her in, geez everyone with stimulus cash spent it on their cars lol. But I don't think I'd bother using Redline on a young engine. Relax and enjoy your truck.

 

[slickracer]

Curious why you use the XG10575 instead of the XG10060?

 

[HEMIMANN]

Welcome to the forum!
Listen to Burla, our resident oil guru .
Your plan sounds fine, my take on all this is to use any decent oil, frankly Wallyworld SuperTech is probably good enough, change around 6K or so, add the aforementioned L ubeguard Biotech for extra insurance if you like, and use a good filter like the FramXG you mentioned.
I will add that I use Royal Purple 20-820 filter, it's bigger and also increases oil pressure. In my truck it raised it about 10 psi, for example warm idle was ~37psi, with RP filter it's ~47psi. But every hemi is a little different.
Enjoy the beast, have fun and drive her hard, I think these engines really want to be worked.

I will confess that I use Redline 5W30, but I bought my truck at 106K miles as an exfleet truck with extremely high idle hours (over 4700!) and it did develop a nasty tick but also has several broken manifold bolts. The Redline did quiet the engine down, I won't know the health of the lifters until my speed shop guy can finally get her in, geez everyone with stimulus cash spent it on their cars lol. But I don't think I'd bother using Redline on a young engine. Relax and enjoy your truck.

An ounce of prevention is worth a ton of cure. I'd use Red Line from the get go to prevent the engine from wearing a lifter roller enough to develop a tick in the 1st place. I put my money where my mouth is - I changed over @ 36k miles when I found out about it.

 

[GsRAM]

An ounce of prevention is worth a ton of cure. I'd use Red Line from the get go to prevent the engine from wearing a lifter roller enough to develop a tick in the 1st place. I put my money where my mouth is - I changed over @ 36k miles when I found out about it.

Agree 100%. I did the same after reviewing Burlas research and my truck has 14,700 miles on it presently. I dont run many miles so only annual changes for me, so the extra cost of the redline is money well spent to me personally but to each their own.

 

[Big Dogg]

Welcome to the forum, I would not worry about hemi tick unless you get hemi tick, and if you would like to check how your hemi is doing you can get a used oil analysis at some point. Other then that, you can choose to follow what fca does with their lubrication using a hemi specific oil by using a high moy oil. If your lifters tick at start up, moly coats them and in most cases alleviates the issue. Enjoy your truck, most hemi's wont need extra attention, but in the case of hemi tick you found the only forum that has solved it with lubrication and over 100 members who took place in it. People w/o hemi tick don't understand so they post non sense in oil threads, never mind that. Then when they get hemi tick they follow what we have done and are grateful, go figure. Don't use moly in suspension additives, if you want an additive l u b e g a r d biotech is the only known oil soluble moly additive.

Looking for that oil additive. I have searched for a while. What is the one most recommended. Back when I was young slick 50 was the bees knees and saved my atv once. I cannot seem to find something really exceptional so any recommendations are great
\

 

[Burla]

biotech

 

[Jeepwalker]

oil rituals are hilarious... really just 5kish oil change intervals with any name brand oil that meets manufacturer specifications & just not abusing the vehicle will give you the best odds of a long life.

Yeah, just keep changing your oil on a routine basis. 5k is enough (I go longer, sometimes). Enjoy the tk. I've (and wife) driven several vehicles up near 300k on Citgo regular dino oil. Usually the cars rusted out or we replaced them. I've never had a catastrophic engine problem, nor an engine wear out.

Couple tips: You can get the Penzoil Platinum Ultra Synthetic for often a really good deal on Amazon (keep your eye out for deals). Great oil for the $$ when it's on sale. I used to be what they put in the Rams from the factory (or so it was touted here on the group). Therefore a lot of owners use it. I'm not real strong on any oil filter with a Fram label on it. Their main filters have got to be the crappiest filters known to man (just cut some old ones open). Their higher end filters like you're using are better but I still don't think approach the quality of a Mopar filter. Mopar filters are great. Or Bosch, Wix, Napa Gold, etc. I use the Mopars. But that said, at least you're using the better Fram.

Enjoy your new pickup.

 

[Burla]

Looking for that oil additive. I have searched for a while. What is the one most recommended. Back when I was young slick 50 was the bees knees and saved my atv once. I cannot seem to find something really exceptional so any recommendations are great
\

here is poll of ram forum users and different lubrication strategies.. read what forum members have said and loo at poll results. You cant say these are unknown additives, the oil manu's put this stuff in your oil, they just use more of it.

lubegard poor mans redline

did redline kill your tick

 

[EdGs]

Curious why you use the XG10575 instead of the XG10060?

IIRC, the XG10575 is slightly longer than the 10060, more surface area for filtration.

 

[Jeepwalker]

When I drive locally here, small trips, I put the transmission down a gear to keep it from going into the eco mode. The idea is to preserve or reduce the number of times the engine goes back into the cyl re-activation mode at high speed (reduce cam knock-out). Not sure it helps, but makes me 'feel' good...lol

 

[Burla]

When I drive locally here, small trips, I put the transmission down a gear to keep it from going into the eco mode. The idea is to preserve or reduce the number of times the engine goes back into the cyl re-activation mode at high speed (reduce cam knock-out). Not sure it helps, but makes me 'feel' good...lol

I used to do this, and I like it better, I use tow hual instead of gear select, I like that even better. But, if you see how mds works, you will see mds actually lubricates the cam/lifters better then when it is off. @Hemi395 who found like ever video I ever posted found yet another great video that shows this.

 

[Hemi395]

I would leave MDS on as long as the truck came with it from the factory. JMO, but this is why

5.7 HEMI Lifter Failure Could this FIX the lifter issue FOREVER?

Hey guys, revisiting the 5.7 HEMI lifter failure video I made a couple months ago. I wanted to address many off the comments that I got from the last video, ...

youtu.be

 

[Jeepwalker]

I used to do this, and I like it better, I use tow hual instead of gear select, I like that even better. But, if you see how mds works, you will see mds actually lubricates the cam/lifters better then when it is off. @Hemi395 who found like ever video I ever posted found yet another great video that shows this.

Hmmm...interesting.

Thanks for that

 

[HEMIMANN]

Yup - I leave my MDS on now, use the tow/haul mode when towing with my Pulsar Edge Tuner, AND use the manual gear selection to hold to 5th gear max, since 6th gear is actually an underdrive gear (would likely only go there pushing downhill trailering, but even so I don't want the shift toggling wearing out the wimpy 66RFE valve body pistons and OD clutches).

 

[Burla]

I would leave MDS on as long as the truck came with it from the factory. JMO, but this is why

5.7 HEMI Lifter Failure Could this FIX the lifter issue FOREVER?

Hey guys, revisiting the 5.7 HEMI lifter failure video I made a couple months ago. I wanted to address many off the comments that I got from the last video, ...

youtu.be

thanks Corey