Buying 2016 Rebel - Hemi Tick and other Questions

[G0S7]

The reason mani bolts is a concern in the same conversation is because mani bolts and lifter tick can sound the same with hemi's. There are two main hemi tick causes just fyi, but when testing the hemi you should obsrve how the engine sounds at warm idle, if there is any sewing machine sound, take a pass on it. The ticking on injectors is nothing but normal cadence, but that sewing machine sound is a bad deal. If you loved the deal and had sewing machine sound, you could dive into harder and see if it is mani or lifters, if it is mani bolts no problem, but only a darwin would buy a hemi with lifter tick.

Thankfully as of now, I can only hear the injectors. I've heard the engine running warm before and had heard nothing. I had not heard the vehicle start cold however, hence why I had the video taken. As of now I have heard no indicators warm nor cold.

If I'm not mistaken, the actual lifter tick will be audible no matter the temperature. Cold start or warm. (Not my truck)

ETA: As I re-read through the comments of the above video and others and see how many lower mileage FCA vehicle owners are reporting the same problem, the amount of mileage my particular truck has is almost reassuring (single owner). Given the service records, it seems there was nothing but schedule maintenance all her life-time with the exception of one of the fender flares having to be re-attached. As quiet as it runs, it makes me think if it was going to happen in this motor it would've happened already. Wishful thinking I know.

 

[Burla]

Thankfully as of now, I can only hear the injectors. I've heard the engine running warm before and had heard nothing. I had not heard the vehicle start cold however, hence why I had the video taken. As of now I have heard no indicators warm nor cold.

If I'm not mistaken, the actual lifter tick will be audible no matter the temperature. Cold start or warm.

That's not your truck?

Yes hemi tick could be heard cold or warm, however it is warm idle tick that is the most dangerous and alarming as far as hinting at accelerated cam wear. There are some things you can try with cold tick, but sometimes they are just dry at start up regardless of anything.

 

[G0S7]

That's not your truck?

Absolutely not haha. This is someone's truck that was posted on youtube. His only had 2k miles.

 

[Burla]

whew

 

[Rodney Belair]

I have a 17 with 53000 miles on it. CAI, Borla catch can and Super Chips. Have the lifter tap sometimes but not often. Knock on wood no issues yet...

 

[kurek]

Look guys I think we're overlooking the important questions here.

1. Which transfer case does your Rebel have
2. What gear ratio is in the axles
3. Does it have the anti-spin rear diff
4. Got photos of it

 

[Ed F]

It'***** and miss. I live in a cold climate so I can kind of point the finger at that for causing some of my issues.

Is it unreasonable to think a 21st century vehicle should operate in the cold?

Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk

 

[indept]

The reason mani bolts is a concern in the same conversation is because mani bolts and lifter tick can sound the same with hemi's. There are two main hemi tick causes just fyi, but when testing the hemi you should obsrve how the engine sounds at warm idle, if there is any sewing machine sound, take a pass on it. The ticking on injectors is nothing but normal cadence, but that sewing machine sound is a bad deal. If you loved the deal and had sewing machine sound, you could dive into harder and see if it is mani or lifters, if it is mani bolts no problem, but only a darwin would buy a hemi with lifter tick.

I wouldn't say manifold bolts are no problem. I've read in this forum about some who had to replace the head(s) because of those bolts. Now was that due to a mechanic missing with his drill bit and piercing the water jacket or was the bolt too seized, I don't know but those bolts can be a PIA.

 

[Burla]

I wouldn't say manifold bolts are no problem. I've read in this forum about some who had to replace the head(s) because of those bolts. Now was that due to a mechanic missing with his drill bit and piercing the water jacket or was the bolt too seized, I don't know but those bolts can be a PIA.

for sure, but not the concern or issue he listed in op with cams, but for sure mani bolts can be challenging as long with anything/everything in an old truck.

 

[Brandon-w]

No, I totally agree with you on that. But the Engine has proven to be problematic for me and almost all my friends, common denominator is the cold. Seems like the southern states warmer climate trucks don't have the problem as often.

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[Burla]

OP is in Texas, so likely he wont have same issues as snow belt. But also, walking in his shoes what are the other options? Paying more for a Ford or Chevy? Or maybe a pentastar? What is the best option for someone wanting a flull size at 100k miles on odo. I'd say once the hemi is at 100k miles, chances are it is in a good place as far as cam wear goes if hemi tick is absent. You never know for sure, seams like danger zone is 70k miles to 130k miles, but it bodes well that it is 100k miles and isn't ticking.

The reason I bought my 4 gen was because of the ride and comfort and value. Ram beats all comers just in those areas, something to add to the conversation. The coil back suspension and generous seats are great for us larger dudes. I'm a Ford guy but no way did Ford have anything close to 4 gen rams in that area, and I would never buy another chevy anyhow.

 

[David Langford]

I have a '17 with just under 50k miles, and had the tick. Took it to the dealer and they tapped and replaced 2 exhaust manifold bolts on each bank under warranty, and I had them replace the others while they were in there. I think it would have been ~$2k if I'd have been out of warranty. It has otherwise performed very well, and I'm completely satisfied. This is the 4th vehicle I've had with the 5.7 Hemi (the others being Jeep Grand Cherokees), and the 2nd with the 8-speed transmission. I've loved all of them. Wish fuel mileage was better, but like the towing capacity of my 3.92 gears. I feel like the MDS works well too. I get 21MPG in my Jeep combined highway/city driving. More like 13MPG on the Ram before I start towing, if I am towing, I just don't pass a gas station. LOL, more like the mileage on my '74 454 'Vette at about 8 or 9.

 

[G0S7]

Look guys I think we're overlooking the important questions here.

1. Which transfer case does your Rebel have
2. What gear ratio is in the axles
3. Does it have the anti-spin rear diff
4. Got photos of it

OP is in Texas, so likely he wont have same issues as snow belt. But also, walking in his shoes what are the other options? Paying more for a Ford or Chevy? Or maybe a pentastar? What is the best option for someone wanting a flull size at 100k miles on odo. I'd say once the hemi is at 100k miles, chances are it is in a good place as far as cam wear goes if hemi tick is absent. You never know for sure, seams like danger zone is 70k miles to 130k miles, but it bodes well that it is 100k miles and isn't ticking.

The reason I bought my 4 gen was because of the ride and comfort and value. Ram beats all comers just in those areas, something to add to the conversation. The coil back suspension and generous seats are great for us larger dudes. I'm a Ford guy but no way did Ford have anything close to 4 gen rams in that area, and I would never buy another chevy anyhow.

Oh it's pretty loaded guys. It has the 3.92 with the anti-spin and "Elec Shift-on-the-Fly P/Time T/Case" according to the build sheet. I think the only options it doesn't have is the Ram boxes, and sun roof. I really like the Ram boxes but the bed rack I plan to get (for top mounted tents) only works with the regular bed. I really would've loved the two tone with the black pearl(?) wrapped around the bottom but it not a biggie.



I'm pretty positive the Rebel is the absolute nicest truck I could've purchased for my budget. There were good number of gen 1 Raptors out there though haha. Another interesting thing I'd like to add is that these are super uncommon in SATX. Every other truck minus the Raptor is pretty much everywhere you look. It is TX after all.

Edit: *118k miles, I kept saying 116 earlier.

 

[G0S7]

I have a '17 with just under 50k miles, and had the tick. Took it to the dealer and they tapped and replaced 2 exhaust manifold bolts on each bank under warranty, and I had them replace the others while they were in there. I think it would have been ~$2k if I'd have been out of warranty. It has otherwise performed very well, and I'm completely satisfied. This is the 4th vehicle I've had with the 5.7 Hemi (the others being Jeep Grand Cherokees), and the 2nd with the 8-speed transmission. I've loved all of them. Wish fuel mileage was better, but like the towing capacity of my 3.92 gears. I feel like the MDS works well too. I get 21MPG in my Jeep combined highway/city driving. More like 13MPG on the Ram before I start towing, if I am towing, I just don't pass a gas station. LOL, more like the mileage on my '74 454 'Vette at about 8 or 9.

I'm glad to hear your experience. The family truck is a 2011 Yukon Denali XL with the 6.2 which also gets around 13mpg. Before, we had a Volvo XC60 which was an excellent vehicle but I'll just say that the extra space in the Denali is worth every penny spent on fuel.

It will be all about the smiles per gallon with the Rebel though!

 

[G0S7]

I wouldn't say manifold bolts are no problem. I've read in this forum about some who had to replace the head(s) because of those bolts. Now was that due to a mechanic missing with his drill bit and piercing the water jacket or was the bolt too seized, I don't know but those bolts can be a PIA.

I think the first thing going on this truck is a set of shorty headers aside from performing the 'home-coming' maintenance. It just makes sense to go ahead and knock it out to avoid a worst case scenario situation like you mentioned.

 

[Wild one]

I think the first thing going on this truck is a set of shorty headers aside from performing the 'home-coming' maintenance. It just makes sense to go ahead and knock it out to avoid a worst case scenario situation like you mentioned.

Doing the spark plugs on it,might make your ass pucker,it needs 16 irridium plugs and they aren't cheap,or all that easy to do,allow yourself a couple hours just to do the plugs if you've never done them on a trucks hemi

 

[kurek]

Another interesting thing I'd like to add is that these are super uncommon in SATX. Every other truck minus the Raptor is pretty much everywhere you look.

That does look like a winner, congratulations!

If you're going after uncommon track down a reg cab long bed 4wd in a color other than white

 

[indept]

OP is in Texas, so likely he wont have same issues as snow belt. But also, walking in his shoes what are the other options? Paying more for a Ford or Chevy? Or maybe a pentastar? What is the best option for someone wanting a flull size at 100k miles on odo. I'd say once the hemi is at 100k miles, chances are it is in a good place as far as cam wear goes if hemi tick is absent. You never know for sure, seams like danger zone is 70k miles to 130k miles, but it bodes well that it is 100k miles and isn't ticking.

The reason I bought my 4 gen was because of the ride and comfort and value. Ram beats all comers just in those areas, something to add to the conversation. The coil back suspension and generous seats are great for us larger dudes. I'm a Ford guy but no way did Ford have anything close to 4 gen rams in that area, and I would never buy another chevy anyhow.

Funny you should say that, yesterday Texas got more than twice as much snow as we've had here in Nj just a few miles east of Philly.

 

[Burla]

Doing the spark plugs on it,might make your ass pucker,it needs 16 irridium plugs and they aren't cheap,or all that easy to do,allow yourself a couple hours just to do the plugs if you've never done them on a trucks hemi

this for sure, it is likely a due item at 100k miles. new pcv while you are back there. there is a tool for back plugs amazon

 

[Burla]

anything like that, swivel spark plug tool. make sure it is right size for hemi plug.