Casting sand in Ram 5.7 Hemi engines

[EdGs]

I would think it was a result of mixing the wrong coolants in Rams - google it - rather than sand.

Nope, really don't think so, got the truck in Sept. of 2017 with 28k miles on her, have only used Mopar OAT and distilled water.

Changed coolant at 108k miles on Dec. of 2020. Has 196k miles now.

Unless improper coolant was in it to begin with, but I doubt it.

 

[Burla]

so replace coolant after 10 yrs ?

if anything what we have been seeing over and over is 10 years is too long. I'd be on a 3 year interval if it were me on a new truck. My truck is 15, I do coolant drain and fills every summer.

thanks Ed good pics.

 

[Wild one]

I'd like to be able to couple the heater hose(s) to longer hoses so I don't make too big of a mess.

Gonna have to see if I can put low pressure on the system without having to buy alot of extra stuff, I need to be done with this.

Do you think it was good to just run the distilled water into the upper hose and let it run out the lower?

Is that enough to clear out the coolant in the block?

I did not disconnect either of the smaller hoses from the water pump. I was trying not to disconnect anything I didn't have to, but I guess that point is now moot.....lol.

But, I figure anything I do now has to be a help. It really has to be some level of better having got the amount of sediment that I have.

If you really wanted to flush the heater core,i'd try doing the CLR flush instead of just using water Ed,then i'd use a bottle of RMI in the system to maintain it. I did a complete flush on my 300 which doesn't really get as much maintence as my toys did about 1.5 years ago,which entailed pulling the block drains and heater hoses and flushing everything with water,and then i followed Mikes advice about dumping a bottle of RMI in afterwards,and i'll admit it loosened up more crud then i thought it would considering i had everything running clean with water,before buttoning it back up and adding new anti-freeze.That's on a car with only 70,000 miles on it,and one that i swap between a 203 and 180 t-stat twice a year,and i've been topping it off with new anti-freeze everytime i swap thermostats,but that was the first time i'd ever flushed it

Heater Core Flush: Using CLR

In this video I show you the process I use to flush a heater core using CLR. I have done this many times in the past few years and it works extremely well. O...

www.youtube.com

 

[EdGs]

if anything what we have been seeing over and over is 10 years is too long. I'd be on a 3 year interval if it were me on a new truck. My truck is 15, I do coolant drain and fills every summer.

thanks Ed good pics.

Now that I know what is/was in there, hopefully I can get it out, and see what is found from here.

Only unknown is, how do I know it's all out of there? I really don't want to add any 'flush' for fear of causing additional grief.

CLR is pretty good stuff, I would trust that over flush products.

 

[Burla]

So what rmi 25 does and I can say this from about 18 years experience, it takes anything in cooling system and deposits it into overflow tank where it gets trapped. Is dissolves and encapsulates rust and does the same. clr is more of a flush then rmi-25, rmi25 works over time in about 500 miles you will see stuff showing up. Plus rmi-25 is made to mix with coolants. I mean in your case seams worse is already happening. Good find and work though, I think you caught it in time as you see you aren't clogged yet.

read up on rmi used to be available mostly at radiator shops, their secret if you will. Still is mostly marketed to shops and fleet, but I just got mine today off eBay.

 

[Wild one]

Now that I know what is/was in there, hopefully I can get it out, and see what is found frome here.

Only unknown is, how do I know it's all out of there? I really don't want to add any 'flush' for fear of causing additional grief.

CLR is pretty good stuff, I would trust that over flush products.

Once you do the CLR flush,then run a bunch of water through the system,and then button it back together with new antifreeze ,whatever CLR left in the system is going to diluted to the point it's not going to hurt anything.
Todays CLR isn't the same CLR as it was 10 years ago,it's pretty mild in comparision to the CLR from a few years back.
The tree huggers have made sure of that,lol

 

[Burla]

Once you do the CLR flush,then run a bunch of water through the system,and then button it back together with new antifreeze ,whatever CLR left in the system is going to diluted to the point it's not going to hurt anything.
Todays CLR isn't the same CLR as it was 10 years ago,it's pretty mild in comparision to the CLR from a few years back.
The tree huggers have made sure of that,lol

clr instr say do not ever use for more then 2.5 hours in radiator.

• With engine cool, drain the cooling system.
• Pour solution into the radiator and fill remainder with water.
• Use 24oz for every 3 gal. of cooling system capacity.
• Turn heat to high inside car to flush the heater core.
• Run engine at normal operating termpature for 10-30 minutes.
• Allow engine to cool. Drain and flush with water until clear.
• Drain system and refill with appropriate coolant mixture.

Do not exceed 2.5 hours at any point during cleaning. Dispose of coolant in accordance with local and national regulations. Never open a radiator cap when engine is hot.

 

[Wild one]

clr instr say do not ever use for more then 2.5 hours in radiator.

• With engine cool, drain the cooling system.
• Pour solution into the radiator and fill remainder with water.
• Use 24oz for every 3 gal. of cooling system capacity.
• Turn heat to high inside car to flush the heater core.
• Run engine at normal operating termpature for 10-30 minutes.
• Allow engine to cool. Drain and flush with water until clear.
• Drain system and refill with appropriate coolant mixture.

Do not exceed 2.5 hours at any point during cleaning. Dispose of coolant in accordance with local and national regulations. Never open a radiator cap when engine is hot.

That's probably to cover their ass more then anything Mike,lol The old formula CLR was pretty corrosive this new stuff isn't anywhere near as corrosive

 

[Wild one]

Ed here's another thread with pictures of the sand that came out with a flush.

plugged heater core

I also read that some Mack trucks had the same issue too.

www.ramforum.com

 

[EdGs]

I believe I will just keep running distilled water through it to flush it out, esp since I have a new radiator.

I have not had a problem with getting heat in the truck, nor has the coolant been exposed to freezing temperatures here in SWFL, maybe mid-30's, and that's only a few nights per year.

I have noticed that I have no airflow in my far right passenger side dash vent, and that the little damper knobs have no effect on air flow in ANY of my dash vents. That has been an issue since I've had the truck, I have no desire to take the dash apart unless I absolutely have to.

I am hopeful that I can get most of the crud out of the system. I might do something with the old radiator to see if any grit is in there.

I am not fast, and it most likely will be Saturday before I can continue, so stay tuned....

 

[fitteenhundred]

Did the crud you got out look pretty much like the video in this article?https://www.mishimoto.com/engineering/2018/11/jeep-wrangler-2012-2018-jk-36l-coolant-filter-kit-pt1

 

[EdGs]

Did the crud you got out look pretty much like the video in this article?https://www.mishimoto.com/engineering/2018/11/jeep-wrangler-2012-2018-jk-36l-coolant-filter-kit-pt1

I will post pics of the dried out stuff on Saturday.

 

[EdGs]

A couple more questions:

Is my method of having the radiator hoses disconnected at the radiator and pouring distilled water into the upper hose and letting it run out the lower hose a good method?

I am assuming that some water will be left in the block. I don't want to mess with the block drains. Will about 15 psi of air be enough to force out the remaining water IF I can get a decent seal on the upper radiator hose?

I will also run distilled water and air through the heater core as well, both directions.

Thoughts?

 

[Wild one]

A couple more questions:

Is my method of having the radiator hoses disconnected at the radiator and pouring distilled water into the upper hose and letting it run out the lower hose a good method?

I am assuming that some water will be left in the block. I don't want to mess with the block drains. Will about 15 psi of air be enough to force out the remaining water IF I can get a decent seal on the upper radiator hose?

I will also run distilled water and air through the heater core as well, both directions.

Thoughts?

The pass side block drain is easy to get at Ed,i'd pull it,then blow out the block with about 20 psi of air.You can offset any water left in the block by adding a bit more straight anti-freeze,but being as how you're in Florida,you don't need as much anti-freeze strength as us northerners need

 

[EdGs]

The pass side block drain is easy to get at Ed,i'd pull it,then blow out the block with about 20 psi of air.You can offset any water left in the block by adding a bit more straight anti-freeze,but being as how you're in Florida,you don't need as much anti-freeze strength as us northerners need

If I can get a good seal on the upper hose, will the air pressure clear the block without undoing the drain plugs?

Is 20 psi good for blowing out the heater core as well?

My serpentine belt and grille clips were delivered. I bought a Gates Fleet Runner belt, hope it is ok, read some negative reviews online.

Sorry for the questions. I have a bad habit of second-guessing myself sometimes.

I am curious to see if my sand is completely dried out so I can see just how much is there. I will hose out the old radiator too, to see what might be left in there.

 

[Wild one]

If I can get a good seal on the upper hose, will the air pressure clear the block without undoing the drain plugs?

Is 20 psi good for blowing out the heater core as well?

My serpentine belt and grille clips were delivered. I bought a Gates Fleet Runner belt, hope it is ok, read some negative reviews online.

Sorry for the questions. I have a bad habit of second-guessing myself sometimes.

I am curious to see if my sand is completely dried out so I can see just how much is there. I will hose out the old radiator too, to see what might be left in there.

No you won't get all the water out,the bottom of the block is a bit below the lower hose,you'll definitely get more out of the block with the drains removed, you can offset the left over water by just adding straight anti-freeze.With the amount of work you're doing,it's only another bolt to pull to drain the pass side of the block,i can see leaving the one drain in place that's behind the starter,but the other one is easy to get at.
Don't go over 18 psi for the heater core,the block you can blow out with 50 psi if you want,if the rad and heater core aren't connected

 

[EdGs]

No you won't get all the water out,the bottom of the block is a bit below the lower hose,you'll definitely get more out of the block with the drains removed, you can offset the left over water by just adding straight anti-freeze

Well, that sucks.

Kind of like the radiator, the lower hose isn't at the physical lowest point. I found that out when I tipped it on it's side.....lol.

 

[Wild one]

Well, that sucks.

Kind of like the radiator, the lower hose isn't at the physical lowest point. I found that out when I tipped it on it's side.....lol.

For all it takes to remove the pass side block drain,i'd pull it Ed

 

[EdGs]

For all it takes to remove the pass side block drain,i'd pull it Ed

Now, I gotta get thread sealer. One more thing.

 

[Wild one]

Now, I gotta get thread sealer. One more thing.

In a pinch you can substitute RTV ,just put it on the plug threads,not on the block threads