Change your own struts

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usaf2006

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Hey guys,
Using a spring compressor from a local auto store, how hard is this feat to accomplish? Is there anything I need to be careful with when taking off the tie rod, and other things, that need to be removed to get the strut out? What about reassembly? My worry is not getting the stuff back together without having an impact wrench. I'm getting an alignment done afterwards, anything else I need to think about?
Thanks!
 

rboyer1290

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It was a piece of cake. But I bought the struts already assembled so I can't help you on that.
 

xb1230

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Getting the strut off is not a big thing, You will need a Ball Joint separator. You want to remove the lower Ball joint to free the lower control arm. Be careful, even fully extended, there is still some spring compression going on so the Lower control arm may snap when you free the lower Ball Joint.

3 bolts to remove as you will need to remove the upper Strut mount with the strut assembly.

Disassembling the strut is not a big thing if you have a good spring compressor. Once the spring is compressed, I recommend you lock it down with a chain (even 2 on opposite sides of the spring) for safety just in case the spring compressor would give up. I usually compress a little more than needed so the pressure is on the chains not on the compressor That way things don't go flying around and you reduce the risk of injuries.

Putting things back together is the opposite... Assemble the strut, strut upper mount, and then remove the spring compressors. Install the upper mount first, and then the Lower control arm. Using a floor jack you can apply pressure to the lower control arm to bring it up and position the Lower Ball joint for re-assembly.

The option of purchasing a fully assembled strut is a good choice as everything is then new, but is a pricier option, especially if your current springs are still good, and your budget is limited.

Hope this helps.
 
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usaf2006

usaf2006

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Thanks everyone! XB, so the lower ball joint is the only one? I saw a video where the guy took the tie rod, upper ball joint, sway bar end link, and lower ball joint. It makes sense what you said, I'm just clarifying. After reassembly, what is the torque for the ball joint? And you torque it to spec once the truck is on the ground right? And I found a killer deal on some Monroe assembled struts after some discounts! Saves me appt of work for sure.
 

WulfGang

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xb1230

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Thanks everyone! XB, so the lower ball joint is the only one? I saw a video where the guy took the tie rod, upper ball joint, sway bar end link, and lower ball joint. It makes sense what you said, I'm just clarifying. After reassembly, what is the torque for the ball joint? And you torque it to spec once the truck is on the ground right? And I found a killer deal on some Monroe assembled struts after some discounts! Saves me appt of work for sure.

I have undone mine without taking anything out then the lower ball joint. The reasoning behind this is that the upper part of the shock is supported on the frame and the lower part is on the lower control arm. Taking out the Tie-Rod and upper BJ may help moving the knuckle out of the way for better access but I have not had to do that. 2 things here: 1. the underside of my truck was not well cared for by the PO so I try not to mess with anything I don't have to to keep things to a minimum of effort and prevent braking anything that isn't broken or rotted out. 2. I did wrestle a bit with space to get everything undone so undoing the Tie-Rod/Upper BJ may not be a bad thing if you can do it easy without messing up anything.

I have access to a DIY garage where you rent a lift and needed tools on the very cheap side. This is very nice since winter is harsh around here and I would not do such a job in my snow filled driveway. However it is a simple job that can be easily done in a driveway if weather permits.

Hope this helps.
 

xb1230

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In addition I don't have coil overs as I have a '02 4X4 with torsion bars in the front and leafs in the back so it could be slightly different in your case, but I believe the wheel to frame assembly is very similar otherwise.
 
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usaf2006

usaf2006

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In addition I don't have coil overs as I have a '02 4X4 with torsion bars in the front and leafs in the back so it could be slightly different in your case, but I believe the wheel to frame assembly is very similar otherwise.

It should work but I'll have to take the sway bar link off too. I'll report back with a diy for future reference for others like me haha.
 
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