Dead Battery

[RamDiver]

Been to the dealer twice and was told everything is good. They told me no draw when not running and the CEL being on is normal after a dead battery.

I have a 2026 2500 diesel that is having starting issues, dealership this past Friday said there was no parasitic draw but the main battery tested bad, they replaced the battery, then on Saturday same issue again no start just a click.

It's sounds like you both would benefit from buying a DC Clamp meter.

You could prove if there is or isn't a parasitic draw. $29 is a great deal for this meter.

https://www.amazon.com/Intendvision-Digital-Clamp-Meter-Counts/dp/B0FNR53KJP

.

 

[bluecheese]

I stopped by the shop I bought the battery from (they were closed all weekend and Monday for Memorial Day) and had them test it for me. Multimeter showed 12.7 volts. They did a load test with an old school analog tester. The battery passed.

So the issue isn't the battery. Something was drawing power for the week the truck sat in my driveway.

Something I noticed with this truck is that it seems to connect to my phone even when it's turned off. For instance, when I start the truck when I'm leaving work, my iphone or Apple Watch will get a notification from Google Maps of how long my commute will be from my work to my home. Something like "Drive time will be 30 minutes to your home address." Like the truck or carplay is telling my phone that its now running, and Google figures that I'm heading home.

A couple of times a day, while I'm sitting at my desk, my phone or watch will get that notification when the truck is not on just sitting in the parking lot.

Not sure if that really means anything though.

 

[TradesmanGuy]

To check for parasite loss, you disconnect the negative lead and hook up a DC ampmeter inline with the battery and the truck. Any low cost multimeter will determine this occurrence. Simple to do and will exactly determine this for you. IMO the dealers are motivated to short circuit this diagnosis. It is up to you to be proactive and determine this for yourself.

A low cost multimeter is around $15 and essential for any DIY garage mechanic. I recently bought such a meter. The meter I had before was 30yo or more. A solid little investment.

https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2500B64G5SO8C&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0igT1Raq2QuSN2cSijNtPe1AxHFP4dUax4pJ5meQor6AmnjnJqeLn8qwSNmuepglq57skhUO4SO8fWHMMyloquyXZxqT8z44j5_5qna4NTvWaRotVjd23B_KpQRvrKRKh8O9F1QS1-q11TtowuB11Gc4AsaS2KfetYVnSqZoDlfvk6TYzxBbLt8N0bDzi0VrIbbWJUtB6xsjsaRjdJPe6HuwhHjVPw9EZBxPEjtWLWZF8BDwImMy7cpZ9S2XttRQCTooyepIg9OSACivsiHWUUbu_dHxSXY420sIbmwBkOM.FjCQ_C90-9rq9iVIfhlOWaSASiU0B_TG-NxyyhkeNBE&dib_tag=se&keywords=multimeter&qid=1779825067&sprefix=mulitmeter%2Caps%2C293&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

 

[TradesmanGuy]

IMO short drives will draw some parasitic loss. The truck seems to run thru checks every time it runs. And if you do a short trip the truck will do the checks til complete whether running or not. Hence some diagnostics running off the battery without the eTorque/alternator doing some of the load. IMO, and based loosely on my own hearing of "things" making noises after shut off.

 

[ibike]

To check for parasite loss, you disconnect the negative lead and hook up a DC ampmeter inline with the battery and the truck. Any low cost multimeter will determine this occurrence. Simple to do and will exactly determine this for you. IMO the dealers are motivated to short circuit this diagnosis. It is up to you to be proactive and determine this for yourself.

A lost cost multimeter cost around $15 and essential for any DIY garage mechanic. I recently bought such a meter. The meter I had before was 30yo or more. A solid little investment.

https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2500B64G5SO8C&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0igT1Raq2QuSN2cSijNtPe1AxHFP4dUax4pJ5meQor6AmnjnJqeLn8qwSNmuepglq57skhUO4SO8fWHMMyloquyXZxqT8z44j5_5qna4NTvWaRotVjd23B_KpQRvrKRKh8O9F1QS1-q11TtowuB11Gc4AsaS2KfetYVnSqZoDlfvk6TYzxBbLt8N0bDzi0VrIbbWJUtB6xsjsaRjdJPe6HuwhHjVPw9EZBxPEjtWLWZF8BDwImMy7cpZ9S2XttRQCTooyepIg9OSACivsiHWUUbu_dHxSXY420sIbmwBkOM.FjCQ_C90-9rq9iVIfhlOWaSASiU0B_TG-NxyyhkeNBE&dib_tag=se&keywords=multimeter&qid=1779825067&sprefix=mulitmeter%2Caps%2C293&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

View attachment 584745

They actually make a dc clamp meter that is awesome for checking for for current draw. Mine goes down to dc microamps!

https://a.co/d/08KQr6Jn

 

[2010DodgeGirl]

My buddy stopped by earlier with his battery charger. The charger said the battery was at 17%.

Battery has been charging for 7 hours or so and it’s currently at 70%.

I’m hoping this was just a fluke and I have no more issues once it’s charged.

I have been having the same issues, but i believe some aholes are messing with me. I replaced the battery and the alternator. They have me put it on a trickle charger overnight. I have been doing this for weeks now as no one has time or want to help me. I have a 2010 Ram 1500 5.7. Should i be putting a full charge battery on it overnight and not the trickle charger? This has probably ruined the new $200 battery i purchased at Costco already. They keep telling me to check the fuses. Peed off in Minnesota. I live alone in my deceased parents home, my step dad was a big truck mechanics and these aholes have been stealing me blind. I'll be lucky if i can find a charger

 

[RamDiver]

I have been having the same issues, but i believe some aholes are messing with me. I replaced the battery and the alternator. They have me put it on a trickle charger overnight. I have been doing this for weeks now as no one has time or want to help me. I have a 2010 Ram 1500 5.7. Should i be putting a full charge battery on it overnight and not the trickle charger? This has probably ruined the new $200 battery i purchased at Costco already. They keep telling me to check the fuses. Peed off in Minnesota. I live alone in my deceased parents home, my step dad was a big truck mechanics and these aholes have been stealing me blind. I'll be lucky if i can find a charger

If you want to troubleshoot the issue, we will need a detailed history and to know why the alternator and battery were replaced.

If you have a parasitic current draw, AKA a mystery current, a trickle charger or battery minder will save your battery from a deep discharge that could potentially destroy it.

Start with the mileage, are you the original owner, and what have you observed?
You might be best to start your own thread instead of creating more traffic and distractions to the poster here.

And, welcome to Ram Forum.

I see you resurrected an older thread, and I responded there 11 days ago.
Why not continue in that thread?

Wiring schematic for 2010 Ram 1500

good day ram lovers. I’m in need of a schematic for a 2010 ram 1500 for the TIPM/TCM/ECM/BCM. I am integrating my Holley dominator into my truck and I want to keep all the factory functions such as gauges, a/c, Cruise control etc etc. Every dealer I go to have no idea what to give me. So I’m...

www.ramforum.com

If you require clarification for anything I posted there, please ask in that thread, and we will get things moving or identify what might work best for your circumstance.

.

 

[Yardbird]

Watch this video for some great test procedures for parasitic loss.

How To Test Parasitic Draws Like A Professional!

This Ford Mustang came in with a massive draw that was killing the battery overnight. In this video you will get shown step by step on how to properly pinpoi...

youtu.be

 

[Sherman Bird]

21 Ram 1500 etorque

My truck sat for 5 days while I was out of town. This evening the battery was completely dead.

I tried jumping it with my wife’s car, but the engine wouldn’t crank

I let her car charge my battery for 10 minutes and the truck finally turned over.

But I now have a Check Engine Light. The voltage is showing as 13 volts. I drove the truck around a little, turned it off and let it sit for 30 minutes.

The truck fired up again, but I still have the CEL. The voltage starts somewhere in the mid 12s, it increases to 13.6, then drops to 13.

The 12v battery was replaced less than 6 months ago.

Any ideas?

View attachment 584568

So... you got it jump started and drove it for 30 minutes. Did you expect that the fully discharged battery had anything more than a surface charge? Do you "think" that an alternator has the ability to FULLY charge a deep cycled discharged battery? (NO alternator can do that, and before the haters chime in, I'm talking the "Trifecta".)
1) Charged to a level of passing a load test (toaster style load test)
2) Capacitance level. Generally requires a high end battery tester to know this one.)
3)Here is the REAL game changer: Charged to a level of at LEAST 1250 specific gravity (subject to temperature of the electrolyte, but close to that number.

THE only way you can achieve all 3 of these values to a PROPRLY charge battery is to charge it at 4-10 amps for at least 8 hours. There AIN'T any shortcut.

I have fixed uncounted numbers of cars/trucks over my 50 year professional automotive career where mis-informed folks come to me after a long period where they have experienced a "pattern" on replacing the alternator, then the battery, alternator, battery.....and repeated this over a 2 year period, wondering why this cycle persists...

There is a MYTH out there that an alternator can charge a deep discharged dead battery. THIS IS PATENTLY FALSE!
An alternator CAN bring a battery up to a good SURFACE charge, thus fooling the hapless DIY'er.
Afterwards, the constant strain on the alternator's rotor and field windings create excessive heat.
Soon after the dead battery was "charged" by the battery, the alternator fails. (Typically up to 6 month later.)
Why? that alternator, which is engineered to maintain a charge on the battery is never going to bring up to snuff, all 3 parameters of what a FULLY and PROPERLY charged battery is. It was not engineered to do this. It was designed and engineered to maintain a state of charge.

So, hapless DIY'er replaces the now toasted alternator... all the while driving around with a compromised battery.
Soon afterward, Hoo Boy, dat durned battery takes a dump! Huh? What?

Meanwhile, the alternator has weakened from overwork because that battery was NEVER properly brought up to a truly full state of charge, and doesn't get replaced at the same time.. So, guess what goes out next? Yup! The alternator fails AGAIN!

I hope this helps. Perhaps you already knew this, but I decided to lend some insight. Pax Vobiscum!

 

[bluecheese]

So... you got it jump started and drove it for 30 minutes. Did you expect that the fully discharged battery had anything more than a surface charge? Do you "think" that an alternator has the ability to FULLY charge a deep cycled discharged battery? (NO alternator can do that, and before the haters chime in, I'm talking the "Trifecta".)
1) Charged to a level of passing a load test (toaster style load test)
2) Capacitance level. Generally requires a high end battery tester to know this one.)
3)Here is the REAL game changer: Charged to a level of at LEAST 1250 specific gravity (subject to temperature of the electrolyte, but close to that number.

THE only way you can achieve all 3 of these values to a PROPRLY charge battery is to charge it at 4-10 amps for at least 8 hours. There AIN'T any shortcut.

I have fixed uncounted numbers of cars/trucks over my 50 year professional automotive career where mis-informed folks come to me after a long period where they have experienced a "pattern" on replacing the alternator, then the battery, alternator, battery.....and repeated this over a 2 year period, wondering why this cycle persists...

There is a MYTH out there that an alternator can charge a deep discharged dead battery. THIS IS PATENTLY FALSE!
An alternator CAN bring a battery up to a good SURFACE charge, thus fooling the hapless DIY'er.
Afterwards, the constant strain on the alternator's rotor and field windings create excessive heat.
Soon after the dead battery was "charged" by the battery, the alternator fails. (Typically up to 6 month later.)
Why? that alternator, which is engineered to maintain a charge on the battery is never going to bring up to snuff, all 3 parameters of what a FULLY and PROPERLY charged battery is. It was not engineered to do this. It was designed and engineered to maintain a state of charge.

So, hapless DIY'er replaces the now toasted alternator... all the while driving around with a compromised battery.
Soon afterward, Hoo Boy, dat durned battery takes a dump! Huh? What?

Meanwhile, the alternator has weakened from overwork because that battery was NEVER properly brought up to a truly full state of charge, and doesn't get replaced at the same time.. So, guess what goes out next? Yup! The alternator fails AGAIN!

I hope this helps. Perhaps you already knew this, but I decided to lend some insight. Pax Vobiscum!

No. What I expected was I'd post my issue on this forum and receive constructive feedback and advice. Which, for the most part, is what happened. Also threads like this help others who may not be as in the know as you appear to be.

If we're not asking these kinds of questions, and seeking advice, what are we even here for?

Reading through this thread, you'll find that I charged the battery overnight, had the battery load tested at two different locations; all based on responses received here in this thread.

Posters here were nice enough to take it a step further and offer solutions on finding the source of a possible parasitic draw in the truck.

 

[Ret Navy CPO]

There are several options presented regarding Mr. blue cheese battery issue. Here's one that's old school: 1. Check the water level in the battery. If it's a little low ,it can be filled with Distilled Water. If it's real low, then you have to use electrolyte. 2. Have the cells each checked with a hydrometer. If the specific gravity gets too low in any or all cells, the alternator output will not be sufficient to charge your battery. As Sherman Bird stated, the electrolyte should be at 1250. If the level falls to 1170, that cell needs to be topped off and the battery charged.
Normally, batteries now, don't usually have water/electrolyte issues. However, if the electrical system is often being used with the engine off, then you're going through major discharge/recharge cycles, which will affect the battery's liquid.

 

[TradesmanGuy]

Update on my NOCO Genius 5 battery restoration. In the past I would charge it and the day after I would see voltage down in the 12.2 or 12.1 Volts. I am suspicious as when I bought the truck the salesman told me that they struggle with batteries. Lots and lots of start/stops as they move the trucks around. I was told they might put a new battery in. I don't know for certain whether or not they did so. I suspect NOT.

Today after a short trip yesterday, I check the battery voltage and the voltage was 12.5. GOOD!

My recommendation for all it to get a NOCO and do a battery recovery. It worked of me.

 

[Sherman Bird]

No. What I expected was I'd post my issue on this forum and receive constructive feedback and advice. Which, for the most part, is what happened. Also threads like this help others who may not be as in the know as you appear to be.

If we're not asking these kinds of questions, and seeking advice, what are we even here for?

Reading through this thread, you'll find that I charged the battery overnight, had the battery load tested at two different locations; all based on responses received here in this thread.

Posters here were nice enough to take it a step further and offer solutions on finding the source of a possible parasitic draw in the truck.

One thing that I truly HATE about folks reading the written form of messages, is to let the context be morphed into an insult. My intent, was and is NOT borne of a didactic nature. The intent is to inform you, and to emphasize the really, truly important points, to be helpful by sharing information germane to your problem. Please feel free to toss the redundancies, and hang on to things you might not have known. Heck, you might have already known. How should I know?
To quote the world class instructors at GM's training center at the San Jacinto College in Pasadena, Texas:
"Teaching is best done from the viewpoint of from level 1 up". This way, if a student is a grasshopper, it addresses his level of knowledge. If a more seasoned fella is present, and understands more, then that person is welcome to ignore the teaching until the instruction gets to his level. That way, everyone gets to learn something.

 

[Sherman Bird]

There are several options presented regarding Mr. blue cheese battery issue. Here's one that's old school: 1. Check the water level in the battery. If it's a little low ,it can be filled with Distilled Water. If it's real low, then you have to use electrolyte. 2. Have the cells each checked with a hydrometer. If the specific gravity gets too low in any or all cells, the alternator output will not be sufficient to charge your battery. As Sherman Bird stated, the electrolyte should be at 1250. If the level falls to 1170, that cell needs to be topped off and the battery charged.
Normally, batteries now, don't usually have water/electrolyte issues. However, if the electrical system is often being used with the engine off, then you're going through major discharge/recharge cycles, which will affect the battery's liquid.

When I first entered this profession, when I would replace a customer's battery, I was given a new battery and a box with a bladder in it containing battery acid. Those were the days! I also rebuilt automotive generators, and had to "motor" them to make sure they were calibrated for the direction they turned, so they would charge.

Times are changing!

 

[Wild one]

Hopefully @MeatCurtains reads the above posts,as he's firmly convinced the alternator will bring a dead battery back to life

 

[RamDiver]

Hopefully @MeatCurtains reads the above posts,as he's firmly convinced the alternator will bring a dead battery back to life

Do you really think it will make any difference?

I had a guy last week insist that his jump pack could recharge a weak car battery.
I tried to explain how jump packs worked, and just dropped the discussion because he wasn't grasping the concept.

.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

I had a guy last week insist that his jump pack could recharge a weak car battery.
I tried to explain how jump packs worked, and just dropped the discussion because he wasn't grasping the concept.

 

[rocket]

Figure I should chime in. 6 year old battery. Sat awhile,mud wasp nest near the fuse box. I killed the battery with mods. lol. ( door open) acc. On all day. I bought a better battery from wally world. Exide made it. I like that mfg.

 

[rocket]

Last battery was premature. Three years of a 1.5 mile commute. That would kill most batteries

 

[Dean2]

Do you really think it will make any difference?

I had a guy last week insist that his jump pack could recharge a weak car battery.
I tried to explain how jump packs worked, and just dropped the discussion because he wasn't grasping the concept.

.

My father always said, "never try to teach a pig to dance. It is a waste of your time and really annoys the pig."