Did Redline Oil work against your Hemi Tick?

[crackerjack1957]

I kind of question that idea,as water evaporates even when frozen.I've been changing oil in everything from farm tractors/semi's to cars for 50 years,including old toys that i ran 160 thermostats in,and if the engine is healthy i've yet to ever find any water in the oil pan. One of the by products of burning gas in a combustion chamber is basically water,but i'd hazard a guess 99.9% of that by product is pushed out the cylinder through the exhaust valve and ends up in the exhaust system,and not in the oil pan.

And they actually have water injection systems for engines......LoL

How Water Injection Can Produce Big Horsepower Gains

Injecting water into your engine sounds crazy, but it's a turbo tuner trick for big horsepower. Here's how it works.

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[HEMIMANN]

Yeah, they been misting jet engines and high performance diesels for years to get NOx pollutants down per EPA. No big deal.

 

[Burla]

Redline killed my tick 61 rams

Redline partially killed my tick 27 rams

Redline did not kill my tick 14 rams

The poll is public so you can see each member and their history here. That is 102 rams and only 14% had no tick relief, and over 60% hemi went 100% quiet, nearly 90% of all trucks who participated redline made their ticks better either totally quiet or lessened the tick. That is your collective at work, that is a ram forum exclusive.

 

[HEMIMANN]

From what I've seen and heard from you guys, I think I can sum up some findings:

1. The key to valve lifter tick suppression is sufficient MoDTC ("Moly") additive in the engine oil. This was proven by low Moly oils being boosted with LubeGard Moly additive, and High Moly Oils, particularly Red Line. High Zinc (ZDDP) additive oils without high Moly did not work (Travis).

2. Moly additive content is important - Burla has test data evidence that Moly concentrations up to 200 ppm reduce metal wear. My recent comparison of Red Line 0W-30 new and used oil samples showed Moly depletion of 60 ppm (12%) from 499 ppm new in ~ 3,000 miles runtime. Extrapolating out to 5,000 miles OCI, Moly depletion would be ~ 100 ppm. This means new oil Moly level of 300 ppm minimum is beneficial.
(Moly depletion is normal and expected - it means Moly is plating out on high friction metal parts)

3. Oil flow through the engine internal lubrication system is critical. Methods to maximize flow rates are important. Among them, lower viscosity oil in colder climates, increased idle speed to previously-normal 750 rpm, Melling or Hellcat Oil Pump for increased flow, lower restriction oil filters like Royal Purple or Wix XP. Fram Ultra is inbetween - more efficient than Wix, but more restrictive than Royal Purple. Any of these three will perform ok.
It may also help to pre-lube an engine that's not run in more than a day. I pre-lube by cranking several cycles without starting. This ensures oil has flowed through most of the oil circuit before start. Do this by pressing the gas pedal all the way to the floor and holding there. Step on the brake an push the start button. Remove foot from brake, then press start button again to stop cranking.

4. It is unknown if base oil formulation has substantial impacts. We've postulated polyol ester (POE) base oil blends could help because of their polar affinity for metal surfaces. But we haven't seen evidence Red Line (a POE blend base oil) works better than a conventional synthetic like PUP spiked with Moly (LubeGard).

We know Red Line works for most, as will Pup + LubeGard. Again, the key is 300 ppm minimum MoDTC (Moly) additive concentration.

Thoughts? Questions? Additions? Subtractions?

 

[Burla]

Well, compared to that poll, I think the results speak for themselves.

Did lubegard kill your tick-

Yes 18 rams
No 14 rams
(MIB) 28 rams

MIB = made it better just not 100%.

The best part of lubegard is it can be something you dump in any oil at anytime, plus it gives options, but the nuclear option with what we know now, is redline. Never say never, maybe tomorrow we will find something 100%.

 

[Marmay]

Never trying RL,here in Ontario this oil is expensive.

 

[Wild one]

Never trying RL,here in Ontario this oil is expensive.

Everything in Canada is expensive,especially cam / lifters and engines

 

[Marmay]

Everything in Canada is expensive,especially cam / lifters and engines

Yesss,and the insurances, welcome in Chinada,but thanks to this forum, now I know a lot more about the Ram ,specifically the famous cam&lifter issues, and from now on I am using lubaguard, for every oil change.

 

[htwo]

Usual rule of thumb is 1000miles per quart. 7 quarts especially synthetic is 7k miles of driving without worry. Even after the oil turns.black doesn't mean it stops performing.

I don't use red line - I use Amsoil 5W20. Any HEMI with MDS should use 5W20. Precious gen Hemi 5W30 is what is recommended. Ithink 20 weight was pushed by DCX at the time to increase their CAFE number more than having a direct correlation with MDS operation.

 

[Wild one]

Usual rule of thumb is 1000miles per quart. 7 quarts especially synthetic is 7k miles of driving without worry. Even after the oil turns.black doesn't mean it stops performing.

I don't use red line - I use Amsoil 5W20. Any HEMI with MDS should use 5W20. Precious gen Hemi 5W30 is what is recommended. Ithink 20 weight was pushed by DCX at the time to increase their CAFE number more than having a direct correlation with MDS operation.

You might want to read the note at the bottom,even Ma Mopar says 5W-30 is okay if 5W-20 isn't available.

 

[oe542bob]

Just did my first oil change in my 2022 5.7 etorque @ 5742 miles. I used the Mopar filter. If I understand it right, with Redline I don’t need to add the LubeGard Moly. Or do I need to add it , say, in 3,000 miles or so?

 

[HEMIMANN]

Just did my first oil change in my 2022 5.7 etorque @ 5742 miles. I used the Mopar filter. If I understand it right, with Redline I don’t need to add the LubeGard Moly. Or do I need to add it , say, in 3,000 miles or so?

Correct. You do not need LubeGard additive with Red Line Motor Oil. Red Line is chocked full of Moly.

 

[Hemi395]

I don't use red line - I use Amsoil 5W20. Any HEMI with MDS should use 5W20. Precious gen Hemi 5W30 is what is recommended. Ithink 20 weight was pushed by DCX at the time to increase their CAFE number more than having a direct correlation with MDS opoperation.

My hemi has ran Amsoil 0w40 multiple times with MDS activated and it didn't expode in a fireball of death.

However, no oil replicates that butter smooth idle and quietness like RL 5w30. SS 0w40 is a close second tho.

 

[Burla]

Just did my first oil change in my 2022 5.7 etorque @ 5742 miles. I used the Mopar filter. If I understand it right, with Redline I don’t need to add the LubeGard Moly. Or do I need to add it , say, in 3,000 miles or so?

Do you have hemi tick? Start up tick? Any tick or knock? So I would so it is a low risk move, but still why risk it when you likely wont gain anything. The potential issue with mixing two ester products and if that is gonna be hard on seals. Clearly redline is well balanced we have had guys use it over ten years, myself been using it now 13 years, and no seal leaks. So that is a known "none issue", but mixing esters long term in not a known "none issue". All you would gain is something like a moly count of 450 boosted up to 500 with biotech, so most of us say the juice aint worth the squeeze.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Yup - you can "over-ester" an engine oil - esters cause standard oil seals (Buna-N Nitrile rubber) to swell.

Jet engines (gas turbines) use Viton seals instead - these are very expensive flourocarbon seals that resist high temperature and ester oils. So jet engine oils are all ester base oil.

 

[dieseldave]

Do you have hemi tick? Start up tick? Any tick or knock? So I would so it is a low risk move, but still why risk it when you likely wont gain anything. The potential issue with mixing two ester products and if that is gonna be hard on seals. Clearly redline is well balanced we have had guys use it over ten years, myself been using it now 13 years, and no seal leaks. So that is a known "none issue", but mixing esters long term in not a known "none issue". All you would gain is something like a moly count of 450 boosted up to 500 with biotech, so most of us say the juice aint worth the squeeze.

I have no tick , or any lifter noise, but I always add Lube Guard. Do think it is a waste of money, or hurt my seals ?

 

[Burla]

I have no tick , or any lifter noise, but I always add Lube Guard. Do think it is a waste of money, or hurt my seals ?

To give a proper opinion on this I would need a uoa, but if it were me I would likely leave the redline card on the shelf until and if I had hemi tick. Of course, if the uoa came back dirty, I would want the extra protection of that HP oil, but absent a bad uoa, if it aint broke dont fix it.

 

[HEMIMANN]

And others of us use Red Line to prevent tick from occurring instead of waiting for damage to start

 

[Burla]

And others of us use Red Line to prevent tick from occurring instead of waiting for damage to start

very good point as well.

 

[dieseldave]

To give a proper opinion on this I would need a uoa, but if it were me I would likely leave the redline card on the shelf until and if I had hemi tick. Of course, if the uoa came back dirty, I would want the extra protection of that HP oil, but absent a bad uoa, if it aint broke dont fix it.

What is a UCA and a redline card and a HP oil ?