Did Redline Oil work against your Hemi Tick?

[Wild one]

Finally did a Idle Video with RL 5W30

Redline 5W30 HEMI 5.7 with @FlyinRyanPerformance Sidewinder 2.0 Camshaft.

youtu.be

Okay truck sounds good,now get it out of the way,and lets have a video of the new shop,lol

 

[DILLIGAF]

It doesnt get any better then that. Did it sound that good before?

This is PUP 5W30 - RL is a bit quieter, and dosent give me a tick at startup.

5.7 to 6.4 HEMI intake manifold swap

youtu.be

 

[DILLIGAF]

Okay truck sounds good,now get it out of the way,and lets have a video of the new shop,lol

Its not ready yet

 

[Burla]

The pup had start up tick?

 

[DILLIGAF]

The pup had start up tick?

Once in a while. But I was using the SRT filer and not the RP

Im sending the oil out for analyst.

 

[Burla]

Keep us updated, how it holds up over time is the real gauge. But yeah could be filter related as well as far as tick, but those mopar filters tend to not be tick filters, that isnt their issue.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Thanks for sharing your results, @DILLIGAF

 

[spg993tt]

morning. can someone post a link to the specific Redline oil that we should be using? i ask because I ordered some from Summit and got some from Amazon, they had different packaging. as I go to their site, I see some with a black container, some have white container, some have red container? maybe its just different colored containers for size/volume? is this what we need? https://www.redlineoil.com/5w30-motor-oil thx in advance.

 

[Hemi395]

morning. can someone post a link to the specific Redline oil that we should be using? i ask because I ordered some from Summit and got some from Amazon, they had different packaging. as I go to their site, I see some with a black container, some have white container, some have red container? maybe its just different colored containers for size/volume? is this what we need? https://www.redlineoil.com/5w30-motor-oil thx in advance.

The one you linked is the correct one. Should be a white bottle for quarts and red for gallons.

The black bottle is their lower tier oil which is on par with anything you can buy at the local parts store/Walmart.

I like getting RL from the vendors they specify on their website such as Jegs or Summit.

 

[spg993tt]

Question, had bought 7 qt of 5w30 red line from ECS was on sale for 5,6 bucks each. anyway, when it arrived, i did the change went well, only after did i notice that 2 of the qts were 5w20. container is basically the exact same colors, size, everything just a "2" instead of a 3. u think thats ok for 3000 miles, ? or should i change that out? that means changing all 7 qts. east coast warm weather. mostly highway driving.

 

[Hemi395]

Question, had bought 7 qt of 5w30 red line from ECS was on sale for 5,6 bucks each. anyway, when it arrived, i did the change went well, only after did i notice that 2 of the qts were 5w20. container is basically the exact same colors, size, everything just a "2" instead of a 3. u think thats ok for 3000 miles, ? or should i change that out? that means changing all 7 qts. east coast warm weather. mostly highway driving.

You'll be fine with that combo, the majority of it is 5w30.

 

[Burla]

Question, had bought 7 qt of 5w30 red line from ECS was on sale for 5,6 bucks each. anyway, when it arrived, i did the change went well, only after did i notice that 2 of the qts were 5w20. container is basically the exact same colors, size, everything just a "2" instead of a 3. u think thats ok for 3000 miles, ? or should i change that out? that means changing all 7 qts. east coast warm weather. mostly highway driving.

If you see the UOA section, the oil specifically made for the hemi is in viscosity 10's sooner then 4,000 miles, that is PUP 0w40, see for yourself, look up hammers uoa's. So basically what you did was turn your 5w30 into 0w30 by adding two quarts, but not some random 0w30 but redline 0w30 which is very stout. We have guys with cold piston slap prefer redline 0w30 in the 6.4, as a top choice. This gives you great start up viscosity but yet stays stout enough to last the entire interval. If I had to wager a guess, if your truck is running good you will still be in the 10's even at 7k miles. If it is ok to be in the 10's with the hemi oil specifically designed for the 6.4 hemi, then it is ok to run redline in the 10's especially considering the extra metal protection additives and base oil that oil has. If you tow heavy in hot summer, you could drain off a quart and add a qrt 15w40 this summer, but absent that condition I wouldnt chnage it early if it were me.

 

[spg993tt]

If you see the UOA section, the oil specifically made for the hemi is in viscosity 10's sooner then 4,000 miles, that is PUP 0w40, see for yourself, look up hammers uoa's. So basically what you did was turn your 5w30 into 0w30 by adding two quarts, but not some random 0w30 but redline 0w30 which is very stout. We have guys with cold piston slap prefer redline 0w30 in the 6.4, as a top choice. This gives you great start up viscosity but yet stays stout enough to last the entire interval. If I had to wager a guess, if your truck is running good you will still be in the 10's even at 7k miles. If it is ok to be in the 10's with the hemi oil specifically designed for the 6.4 hemi, then it is ok to run redline in the 10's especially considering the extra metal protection additives and base oil that oil has. If you tow heavy in hot summer, you could drain off a quart and add a qrt 15w40 this summer, but absent that condition I wouldnt chnage it early if it were me.

Thk U my dude, much appreciated.

 

[Jane S]

Question, had bought 7 qt of 5w30 red line from ECS was on sale for 5,6 bucks each. anyway, when it arrived, i did the change went well, only after did i notice that 2 of the qts were 5w20. container is basically the exact same colors, size, everything just a "2" instead of a 3. u think thats ok for 3000 miles, ? or should i change that out? that means changing all 7 qts. east coast warm weather. mostly highway driving.

Isn't 5w20 the recommend oil for your truck?

The 5W-20 will remain a little thinner at operating temperature, as indicated by its lower “20” number, while 5W-30 will provide a slightly thicker lubricating film.

With your mix you have about a 5w27 oil - nothing to worry about at all.

 

[Burla]

Isn't 5w20 the recommend oil for your truck?

The 5W-20 will remain a little thinner at operating temperature, as indicated by its lower “20” number, while 5W-30 will provide a slightly thicker lubricating film.

With your mix you have about a 5w27 oil - nothing to worry about at all.

6.4.

 

[Jane S]

6.4.

Thanks - I thought it was a 2013 5.7 for some reason.

 

[Burla]

Officially as far as the api is concerned an oil is either 20 weight or 30 weight, but you do change the winter rating by going thinner, maybe not to "0", but the oil will perform better by adding 5w20 weight in the cold. It is 5w20 because of what the performance is for a "20" weight oil, when you have a "30" weight oil when you go thinner it will effect cold performance.

Visc 40c in redline

5w20- 53 visc
0w30- 69 visc
5w30- 71 visc

So even adding 2 quarts of 5w20 to 5 quarts of 5w30 you will gain a lot of cold performance all the way down to 34f and then some. You change the viscosity at both ends, cold and warm. However, the "0" or "5" is not considered a weight, but the "20" or "30" is.

 

[BRDN]

I have the Tick. 2013 5.7 with 170,000 miles. Runs perfect. It’s a lifter. It started about 10,000 miles ago. I read all I could about the tic. I’ve been running redline 5w30 in it since the tick started. Here’s the thing. The tick will stop for 2000 miles. That’s it, 2000 miles, then I have to change oil again. At the last 2000 mile mark I added MOA bag to it. No difference. Is the redline breaking down that fast? I don’t have the MDS ON my truck. I’m wondering if someone has figured out a next step?

 

[mdc1990zr1]

I have the Tick. 2013 5.7 with 170,000 miles. Runs perfect. It’s a lifter. It started about 10,000 miles ago. I read all I could about the tic. I’ve been running redline 5w30 in it since the tick started. Here’s the thing. The tick will stop for 2000 miles. That’s it, 2000 miles, then I have to change oil again. At the last 2000 mile mark I added MOA bag to it. No difference. Is the redline breaking down that fast? I don’t have the MDS ON my truck. I’m wondering if someone has figured out a next step?

Just change the oil, leave everything else including the filter the same. If the ticking stop with just an oil change, then yes, it is the RedLine.

 

[Burla]

I have the Tick. 2013 5.7 with 170,000 miles. Runs perfect. It’s a lifter. It started about 10,000 miles ago. I read all I could about the tic. I’ve been running redline 5w30 in it since the tick started. Here’s the thing. The tick will stop for 2000 miles. That’s it, 2000 miles, then I have to change oil again. At the last 2000 mile mark I added MOA bag to it. No difference. Is the redline breaking down that fast? I don’t have the MDS ON my truck. I’m wondering if someone has figured out a next step?

It is very possible, the forum has established there are two ticks that can benefit from a lubrication strategy, ones that additives and base oils work against, and others that are more sensitive to viscosity. With that many miles, your tolerances can be so large the tick is more sensitive to viscosity then additives, which isn't necessarily bad news. Now, my question is how many oils have you tried and what oils were successful? Is redline the only oil that killed this tick for 2k miles? What filter are you using. Let's get more info and refine your strategy, you may be surprised where we end up. And yes it is possible your engine is shreading that oil even redline 5w30, have you ever got a uoa? A uoa would verify that, you lose viscosity with mechanical shear from something out of tolerance.

My immediate attempt would be to drain off a quart or two no more, and go back with redline 5w40. See if that helps.