Diode Dynamics switchbacks issue

[Midnight Storm]

I just got my headlights back with switchback boards in my projectors.
I used the included t-taps to power them up.
They worked perfectly for a couple of days and then today I got an error on the dash saying right signal out and it’s hyperflashing. Then it seems to resolve itself.
Then again the same thing happened this afternoon. I could see in the car in front of me that the right DRL was now back to solid amber. Now it’s back to working normally. Something is a little off.

Any tips on my next step? I really don’t want to take the grill off and the headlight out for the 200th time this week.

 

[daveray9]

I had this... was the connection to the resistor, it was not tight to keep the current. I tightened it up and then put electrical tape on it.

Mine would hyper flash but also be much brighter when just parking lights were on compared to the other side.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[Midnight Storm]

Thanks pal! I’ll give it a shot. So just push the spades Extra hard into the t-taps and maybe a gentle pinch with some pliers too before wrapping in electrical tape?

 

[chrisbh17]

I have a similar issue with switchbacks but they arent Diode Dynamic.

Does your issue only occur as your headlights turn on? (either manually with knob or by automatic headlight turn on)

I get the same issue (turn signal out warning, hyperflash, then resolves itself) only if the turn signal is on and the headlights come on WHILE the turn signal is on. Its really odd, and in my case I figured if it were something loose it would show up all the time. Not sure if yours shows up on every use of the signal or just occasionally.

 

[Midnight Storm]

Random times. Headlight were in the off position and I was on straight flat road.

 

[daveray9]

Thanks pal! I’ll give it a shot. So just push the spades Extra hard into the t-taps and maybe a gentle pinch with some pliers too before wrapping in electrical tape?

worked for me, but might be a different issue.. try swapping the resistors from the side there isn't an issue... or the canbus adapter but that would only be for the dash warnings

 

[Jimmy07]

I just got my headlights back with switchback boards in my projectors.
I used the included t-taps to power them up.
They worked perfectly for a couple of days and then today I got an error on the dash saying right signal out and it’s hyperflashing. Then it seems to resolve itself.
Then again the same thing happened this afternoon. I could see in the car in front of me that the right DRL was now back to solid amber. Now it’s back to working normally. Something is a little off.

Any tips on my next step? I really don’t want to take the grill off and the headlight out for the 200th time this week.

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/tapping-headlight-wires.148822/#post-2104353
I tried warning about using t taps, but, definitely check those and the wiring first. You say the DRL (which is supposed to be white) is going to solid amber? I tried a set of these, and went through 4 sets of drivers that DD had kept sending me(the black boxes that people are incorrectly referring to as resistors). Each time before they failed, it started out with a DRL going amber, then the hyperflash, then back to normal for a while, then total driver failure. I never could figure it out, and of course, according to DD, I’m the “first one this ever happened to”. In the trash they finally went. Hopefully you don’t have these problems.

 

[Midnight Storm]

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/tapping-headlight-wires.148822/#post-2104353
I tried warning about using t taps, but, definitely check those and the wiring first. You say the DRL (which is supposed to be white) is going to solid amber? I tried a set of these, and went through 4 sets of drivers that DD had kept sending me(the black boxes that people are incorrectly referring to as resistors). Each time before they failed, it started out with a DRL going amber, then the hyperflash, then back to normal for a while, then total driver failure. I never could figure it out, and of course, according to DD, I’m the “first one this ever happened to”. In the trash they finally went. Hopefully you don’t have these problems.

Yeah...You were right.
I have an email to DD already and will get new drivers sent ASAP. I’m not the best with wiring and don’t even know where to start building a t-harness so I took the easy way out. I guess there’s no going back now

 

[Gizmoram]

So did you ever get this figured out? I'm having the same problem

 

[Midnight Storm]

It honestly happened the one time and never again. They sent me backup drivers but I haven’t needed them. Fingers crossed that the truck was saying hi to them that one time each!

 

[Gizmoram]

Mine not only hasn't resolved itself...it's doing a few different odd things....all with the same board tho....but it has never corrected itself.

 

[00R/T]

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/tapping-headlight-wires.148822/#post-2104353
I tried warning about using t taps, but, definitely check those and the wiring first. You say the DRL (which is supposed to be white) is going to solid amber? I tried a set of these, and went through 4 sets of drivers that DD had kept sending me(the black boxes that people are incorrectly referring to as resistors). Each time before they failed, it started out with a DRL going amber, then the hyperflash, then back to normal for a while, then total driver failure. I never could figure it out, and of course, according to DD, I’m the “first one this ever happened to”. In the trash they finally went. Hopefully you don’t have these problems.

I know this is an old thread, but I just found it so I wanted to reply. I went through 3 or 4 drivers on my passenger side back in 2017. I also got the “we’ve never seen this. Must be your truck!” Nonsense. They assured me my truck was sending a PWM signal to the drivers so I put an oscilloscope on it and sent them a pile of captures and then crickets. I’ve been driving with one screwed up light for 4 years now. Now the other side no longer has a switchback function (white stays on when the amber comes on) so I’m going to fix it once and for all. I was hoping maybe these issues were fixed, but it looks like I need to look for stock boards.