Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

[Wild one]

So, if I do the bottom port, will that make sure the oil pump is full of oil as well? Will the mains and rod bearings get oiled from the top port as well?

With the timing cover on, I will just have to trust that the phaser, etc. gets its share of oil.

I will put a couple quarts of oil in the pan first, and then run a few more quarts through the pump sprayer to prime it.

I also plan on prefilling the filter, and rotating the engine while priming. I guess I can build up my arms some more.......lol.

I have enough Supertech 5W-30 conventional for 2 fills, along with 2 Fram TG2 filters, then move to RedLine 5W-30 and an FE2 filter after a few hundred miles.

After watching that video, Rick, I see that the top port will feed the mains too.

I've watched that video a few times before, and missed the bit where he explained the flow through the block.

With the filter anti drain back valve in most filters,i'm not sure you'd gain anything by priming the bottom port Ed.
If you bought a filter relocation kit and just used the filter adapter and looped it's inlet and outlet together,then you'd be able to back feed to the pump.
All you'd use would be the round adapter that replaces the filter,then you'd loop the (2) 1/2" ports together.

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[QwikKota]

I know it wasn't sarcastic. It would not bother me in the least if it were.

I think you would be quicker than me.

You should hear my wife complaining that it isn't done yet.

If I didn't have a backup vehicle I would have to knock it out quickly but would be taking my time if I had something else to drive.

 

[EdGs]

I did have something else to drive, and then totaled it. My Wife has her Dad's truck that she drives.

The Wife drops me off a little way from the house, and I catch a ride to and from work with a co-worker, my work is about 25 miles from home.

We've had a good bit of drama with the sick dog and life's surprises. I'm glad to be on the downside of the repair. Hopefully, all goes well.

 

[QwikKota]

That is a tough situation. Hopefully remedied soon!

 

[EdGs]

Ok, back at it. Harmonic balancer is on.

I think one of my balls popped out when I was torquing it down, I didn't think I was ever gonna hit 130 ft-lbs......lol

I think it would help just a little if the heads on the cam and crank bolts were juat a smidge taller - I slipped off once, came close to knocking my teeth out.....lol.

 

[EdGs]

Injector cleaning time. Here's one of my worst, #2. Has alot of crud on it, the outside of the intake was nasty. Frankly, so was the inside. Check out the outside of the injector tip:

Before, Cleaning, and After:

 

[Wild one]

Injector cleaning time. Here's one of my worst, #2. Has alot of crud on it, the outside of the intake was nasty. Frankly, so was the inside. Check out the outside of the injector tip:

Before, Cleaning, and After:
View attachment 574331
View attachment 574332
View attachment 574333

You're doing a great job Ed.An old toothbrush might work good for cleaning the outside of the injectors.I like your update on the cleaner idea with the metal valve stem and cap,i think i'll have to incorpotate that into my set-up.The spray pattern looks good in the picture.Getting the inside of the intake clean can be a royal b!atch

 

[EdGs]

Injector o-rings replaced, fuel rails installed.

Couple questions:

Short runner valve. I marked the internal shaft when i removed the actuator. It did not move during cleaning, etc.

When I reinstalled the actuator, it (the actuator itself) was slightly turned clockwise a few degrees (~5°), I had to twist it counter-clockwise to line up the holes to screw it back on.

It did have resistance when I turned it counter-clockwise to line it up. Is this normal????

The FelPro intake gasket set MS97089 does not have the gasket for the SRV, had to use the original which was still supple.

2. The map sensor near the SRV seems loose as hell once its in place, I do not have a new o-ring for it, perhaps it needs a new one??? Does it take two? There is a second groove?



Getting ready to clean the throttle body shortly.

 

[EdGs]

You're doing a great job Ed.An old toothbrush might work good for cleaning the outside of the injectors.I like your update on the cleaner idea with the metal valve stem and cap,i think i'll have to incorpotate that into my set-up.The spray pattern looks good in the picture.Getting the inside of the intake clean can be a royal b!atch

Those metal caps have a small rubber flat ring inside them. I used a number drill (I forget the number, it was a .083 or .086 drill), the tube fit tight through the hole and when you put the flat ring back in the cap an crank it down, it grips the tube very well.

My intake is not totally clean, but it's gonna have to do for now.......lol

 

[EdGs]

That ring inside the metal cap does not compress the tube, I see my drill was a tight fit.

The rubber ring doesn't hurt though

I got the valve stems from O'Reilly's.

Sorry about my grubby fingers.......lol

 

[EdGs]

Intake pretty much ready to go after bottom seals get installed.

 

[EdGs]

An observation:

While installing the FelPro (MS97089) intake manifold gaskets to the bottom of the intake manifold, I noticed that the two small trapezoidal gaskets fit much looser.

They seem to be not quite as thick as the OE ones, and the keeper bulges are also smaller.

OE on right:


The one keeper sits right where the notch in the maifold groove is, and it seems like it will easily fall out on the reinstall.

As molded:


If I rotate the gasket slightly, so the bulges are all engaged, it seems tighter. It has to be worked in as it's molded, but it does still fit.

Rotated slightly:


Do you all see any issues doing this?

I'd hate to have one fall out into an intake port while I'm trying to reinstall the intake manifold., and me not know it.

Thanks for your patience with my questions.

 

[EdGs]

Decided instead of rotating the gaskets, to clean the grooves and put 3 or 4 small dabs of black gasket maker in the bottom of the groove, install the gaskets, and wait for it to set up a bit before installing the intake manifold

 

[Wild one]

Decided instead of rotating the gaskets, to clean the grooves and put 3 or 4 small dabs of black gasket maker in the bottom of the groove, install the gaskets, and wait for it to set up a bit before installing the intake manifold

Put some oil on both the gaskets and head surfaces,that way they slide around when you're lining it up .Any cheap oil will work. Torque it down,then about a day later re-torque them Ed,even if you haven't started the truck

 

[EdGs]

Prefilled and installed one of my cheap TG2 oil filters with WalMart SuperTech 5W-30.

Looking through the service manual, it says not to store the viscous fan horizontally as oil can leak into the bearing assembly.

Oops! Guess I'm screwed!

Hope this helps.

 

[EdGs]

Put some oil on both the gaskets and head surfaces,that way they slide around when you're lining it up .Any cheap oil will work. Torque it down,then about a day later re-torque them Ed,even if you haven't started the truck

Will do, Rick.

The manual says use Mopar thread lock and seal on the bolts, I gave the ends a dab of blue loctite.

Torquing the throttle body, manual says 9 ft-lbs but it seems scary tight at 70 in-lbs, I dont want to strip the intake out.

 

[Wild one]

Will do, Rick.

The manual says use Mopar thread lock and seal on the bolts, I gave the ends a dab of blue loctite.

Torquing the throttle body, manual says 9 ft-lbs but it seems scary tight at 70 in-lbs, I dont want to strip the intake out.

I quit using loctite on the intake bolts,as they still lose torque,and that can give you a false sense of security when you go to check them down the road. I use a 5/16 or 8mm nutdriver for the throttle body screws,you'll still get them tight,but with way less chance of stripping out the threads in the manifold.

 

[EdGs]

I quit using loctite on the intake bolts,as they still lose torque,and that can give you a false sense of security when you go to check them down the road. I use a 5/16 or 8mm nutdriver for the throttle body screws,you'll still get them tight,but with way less chance of stripping out the threads in the manifold.

That's good to know, but I already used it, and torqued the intake down. Will recheck when I'm on it again.

That o-ring on the map sensor bothers me, and I noticed the locking clip is missing from the map sensor connector, only God knows where it is.

Here's my setup for oil priming the block:

I left the trigger assembly on because I had a piece of clear tubing that fit tight to the wand connector with a hose clamp, and I had a 3/8 NPT barb fitting that fit the clear hose perfectly.

I can rubber band the trigger "on".

 

[Wild one]

That's good to know, but I already used it, and torqued the intake down. Will recheck when I'm on it again.
View attachment 574396
That o-ring on the map sensor bothers me, and I noticed the locking clip is missing from the map sensor connector, only God knows where it is.

Here's my setup for oil priming the block:
View attachment 574395
I left the trigger assembly on because I had a piece of clear tubing that fit tight to the wand connector with a hose clamp, and I had a 3/8 NPT barb fitting that fit the clear hose perfectly.

I can rubber band the trigger "on".

A couple small zipties can be used to lock the MAP sensor in place and keep it from rotating back out .
I did the same with my sprayer,i kept the trigger assembly on it to

 

[EdGs]

A couple small zipties can be used to lock the MAP sensor in place and keep it from rotating back out .
I did the same with my sprayer,i kept the trigger assembly on it to

Good to know. I'm gonna look at McMaster-Carr tomorrow, see if I can find a better o-ring for that sensor. Might have to buy a bag of 50 but the bag will likely be cheaper than 1 ring from Ma Mopar.

When I was torquing down the throttle body, I did not like the way it felt, I was at 65 in-lbs. and if felt like I was gonna strip it out, so I stopped.

Thats all I need to screw up now.