Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

[Wild one]

Good to know. I'm gonna look at McMaster-Carr tomorrow, see if I can find a better o-ring for that sensor. Might have to buy a bag of 50 but the bag will likely be cheaper than 1 ring from Ma Mopar.

When I was torquing down the throttle body, I did not like the way it felt, I was at 65 in-lbs. and if felt like I was gonna strip it out, so I stopped.

Thats all I need to screw up now.

If you do strip one out,it's pretty easy to make studs to repair the stripped screw threads Ed.
I thought i had a thread on repairing stripped throttle body bolts,but i'll be dammed if i can find it

 

[EdGs]

I found your thread, but this damn forum won't let me copy and paste the link. Go figure

 

[Wild one]

I found your thread, but this damn forum won't let me copy and paste the link. Go figure

I found it to.

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/repairing-stripped-throttle-body-bolts.217826/

 

[EdGs]

I went ahead and ordered the heater hoses to eliminate the 3way valve plumbing. Ordered from Benny.

Part #55056906AH

I could not find these searching with my truck model, but the fitment info says they fit a 2015 1500 SLT with a 5.7.

They might not arrive for a bit, so I might have to put my truck together with the 3way valve plumbing and then swap these in after.

So, once I detach the old lines, do I just blow the coolant from them?

Any other things I should do?

I'm gonna look at completely removing the old lines eventually.

 

[Wild one]

I went ahead and ordered the heater hoses to eliminate the 3way valve plumbing. Ordered from Benny.

Part #55056906AH

I could not find these searching with my truck model, but the fitment info says they fit a 2015 1500 SLT with a 5.7.

They might not arrive for a bit, so I might have to put my truck together with the 3way valve plumbing and then swap these in after.

So, once I detach the old lines, do I just blow the coolant from them?

Any other things I should do?

I'm gonna look at completely removing the old lines eventually.

Odds are you don't need a heater yet in Florida,so you could just loop the heater hose outlets together at the engine for now if you want Ed

 

[EdGs]

Odds are you don't need a heater yet in Florida,so you could just loop the heater hose outlets together at the engine for now if you want Ed

Thats actually a good idea, Rick.

So, the old 3way valve lines, i just blow them out with some compressed air?

 

[Ken226]

Thats actually a good idea, Rick.

So, the old 3way valve lines, i just blow them out with some compressed air?

It'll work.

Or a shop vac, so you don't have to clean anything up afterward.

 

[EdGs]

I got a pack of 5 o-rings that I think will fit the MAP sensor (I hope they fit, I forgot to jot down my measurements).

They are fluorosilicone and are supposed to be compatible with petroleum and motor oil, among other things. They are blue in color and are rated for -55° to 390°.

They only set me back $5 for the pack of 5, I will post the part number and specs once I check the fit.

 

[Wild one]

I got a pack of 5 o-rings that I think will fit the MAP sensor (I hope they fit, I forgot to jot down my measurements).

They are fluorosilicone and are supposed to be compatible with petroleum and motor oil, among other things. They are blue in color and are rated for -55° to 390°.

They only set me back $5 for the pack of 5, I will post the part number and specs once I check the fit.

If they fit, a link to them would be greatly appreciated Ed,

 

[EdGs]

Ok, the o-rings are pretty much identical in size.
New ring on right:

It appears the new one is thicker, but the original is misshapen, IMO.

Old ring on top of new:


It is a McMaster-Carr part # 8333T122
Fluorosilicone, 012 dash number, .070 thick, .364 ID, .504 OD, temp rating -75° to 390°
$5.00 per pack of 5

The map sensor feels firm in the mount with the new ring. I guess I am the guinea pig, use at your own risk.

When I origianally looked them up they were compatible with motor oil and petroleum, but the info I just found includes motor oil, ethanol, and methanol, but does not show petroleum.

 

[Wild one]

Ok, the o-rings are pretty much identical in size.
New ring on right:
View attachment 574735
It appears the new one is thicker, but the original is misshapen, IMO.

Old ring on top of new:
View attachment 574736

It is a McMaster-Carr part # 8333T122
Fluorosilicone, 012 dash number, .070 thick, .364 ID, .504 OD, temp rating -55° to 390°
$5.00 per pack of 5
View attachment 574737
The map sensor feels firm in the mount with the new ring. I guess I am the guinea pig, use at your own risk.

Good find Ed.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

https://www.lily-bearing.com/products/idddtbcc/

 

[EdGs]

Anyone want some more useless info I discovered?

Ya know the heater hoses that go from the water pump to the trans heater lines, 3-way valve, and heater core?

They're all different sizes, bastardized just for us.

For example:

The water pump bolt-on pipe is approx .625 OD
The water pump nipple is aprox .645 OD
Both associated hoses are attached via MU23 clamps

The heater core tubes are approx. .665 OD
Both associated hoses are attached via MU24 clamps

The 3 transmission heater coolant lines are approx. .750 OD
Their 3 hoses are attached via MU26 clamps

The 3-way valve tubes are approx. .785 OD
It's 3 hoses are attached via MU27 clamps

I don't know why I even decided to look at the sizes, I was going to loop the water pump lines and realized the hose had 2 different size ends.

Way to go, Stellantis.

 

[EdGs]

Anyone know the torque value for the spark plugs in the Hemi? I installed the rear plugs on all cylinders, but I can't seem to find the spec on it.

Saw one place on the net that said do no exceed 15 ft-lbs, saw another that said 20 ft-lbs.

Looked through the manual and don't see it listed, but I could've been staring right at it.

Thanks.

I have to get a length of 5/8 heater hose to loop the water pump lines until my hoses come in. I have a couple short pieces, but they want to kink when I bend them in place.

Hopefully, I will get to pressurize the oil and verify flow at the rockers, so I can button up the top end, and then put my wiring harnesses in place.

 

[Yardbird]

Multiple size hoses are on purpose so you have to buy from the dealer.

 

[EdGs]

Multiple size hoses are on purpose so you have to buy from the dealer.

Oh yeah, custom molded.

Even the constant-force clamps have to come with the hose, the radiator, thermostat housing, and water pump inlet clamps are the only ones you can buy separate. Its even hard to find the exact ones elsewhere.

 

[EdGs]

In case anyone wants to know, for a stock 5.7 Hemi, with a 3-way valve and 8HP70, the sizes and quantities of the coolant hose spring clamps are:

2x MU23 23x15 WP nipple & tube
2x MU24 24x15 Heater core inlet & oulet
3x MU26 26x15 Trans heater "Tee" and return line
1x MU46 46x15 Upper Radiator
2x MU53 53x15 Thermostat housing & WP inlet
1x MU60 60x15 Lower Radiator

I believe there's a couple more near the trans heater as well. No clue yet what those are.

 

[EdGs]

Primed the engine with oil, put 6-1/2 qts in through the block plug. Lost a little unhooking my apparatus.

Had good oil at the rockers, but didn't seem as much at the intake springs. There was plenty running out the rocker arms and shaft.

 

[Wild one]

Oh yeah, custom molded.

Even the constant-force clamps have to come with the hose, the radiator, thermostat housing, and water pump inlet clamps are the only ones you can buy separate. Its even hard to find the exact ones elsewhere.

It's not uncommon to have to use a plastic reducer to mate 2 differant sized heater hoses together when you're modding / jury rigging a factory heater hose set-up Ed.I keep several 5/8" to 3/4" plastic reducers on hand just for that reason

 

[EdGs]

It's not uncommon to have to use a plastic reducer to mate 2 differant sized heater hoses together when you're modding / jury rigging a factory heater hose set-up Ed.I keep several 5/8" to 3/4" plastic reducers on hand just for that reason

Yeah, I didn't have any reducers on hand, so I just bought a 3 foot length of 5/8" heater hose and used about 2 feet to put a more gentle loop in the hose. Clamped with 2 of the MU23 clamps from the original hoses.

As far as progress, got the valve covers on, all spark plugs in. Passenger side wiring harness connected at all engine points, as far as I can tell. Fuel line reconnected at rail.

You can see my heater hose bypass loop on left side:


Coils are not installed yet, the boots don't want to come off the coils.

I couldn't find the torque specs for the plugs, one place said no more than 15 ft-lbs., so that's what I used til I know for sure.

 

[Ken226]

Primed the engine with oil, put 6-1/2 qts in through the block plug. Lost a little unhooking my apparatus.

Had good oil at the rockers, but didn't seem as much at the intake springs. There was plenty running out the rocker arms and shaft.

View attachment 574788View attachment 574789

I checked my service manual. It says:


Our Durango R/T also calls for 13ft lbs


Gonna do a video of the first engine start?

Double check those intake ports for forgotten shop towels!