Engine died yesterday

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R/T_Fire

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So a strange thing happened yesterday driving home, was cruising down the road just fine trucks running great. Come up to a stop sign come to a complete stop and truck sputters and dies... but fires right back up, No CEL lights just dies. I had a little less then 1/2 a tank.... Is this s sign of the fuel pump going out?
 

wannahdawg

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I'd lean more towards TB than FP. When your FP is going out, it tends to need to be primed with a couple key cycles before it'll start back up because it loses pressure....but one key turn and fired right back up doesn't go along with that. So I would look into TB being gummed up or something causing too little/too much air when the butterfly snaps closed on deceleration.
 

wannahdawg

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Also the evap canister could be messed up. But this only applies 99% of the time if you are a "topper off" kinda guy at the pump. If you fill your truck up to where it's coming out the filler neck, then you can get gas into your EVAP canister, once it gets wet the charcoal gums together not allowing your tank to vent/purge correctly. Which when you create a vacuum inside a fuel tank, fuel doesn't pump out, hence stalling and running out of gas. Then you fire it up and it will run fine for awhile...repeat cycle again. But I'd still lean towards TB first, unless you like to cram your tank full at every fuel stop.
 
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R/T_Fire

R/T_Fire

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I'd lean more towards TB than FP. When your FP is going out, it tends to need to be primed with a couple key cycles before it'll start back up because it loses pressure....but one key turn and fired right back up doesn't go along with that. So I would look into TB being gummed up or something causing too little/too much air when the butterfly snaps closed on deceleration.

It took a few more cranks than usual but nothing extremely excessive. Throttle body was cleaned about 2-3 months ago. Kinda what led to to question the fuel pump.
 

jotin

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Possible EGR valve


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jotin

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If you do have an EGR valve, if the valve is sticking open when you go to stop. The truck will die and cause a long crank time and finally start up. Just an idea. It wouldn't even throw a trouble code.


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Tach_tech

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If you do have an EGR valve, if the valve is sticking open when you go to stop. The truck will die and cause a long crank time and finally start up. Just an idea. It wouldn't even throw a trouble code.


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His wont have an EGR valve, 2008 was the last year for those for the 1500 hemis.
 

jotin

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Didn't get the year model on this one.


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Rustycowl69

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a similar thing happened to my MIL''s Lumina. It was the torque converter clutch staying locked-up. I replaced a switch or solenoid or something and it was ok. Sorry I don't remember more but that was like over 20 years ago, and I've slept since then.
 
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R/T_Fire

R/T_Fire

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a similar thing happened to my MIL''s Lumina. It was the torque converter clutch staying locked-up. I replaced a switch or solenoid or something and it was ok. Sorry I don't remember more but that was like over 20 years ago, and I've slept since then.

Hmm mm didn't think about that, I'm skeptical of the TC right now to behind with so this is very likely the cause.
 
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R/T_Fire

R/T_Fire

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What recent items have been done to your truck?

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Nothing really that hasnt beem done before. Only thing is i reloaded the 91hemifever tune 2 weeks ago. Thats it. But there have been sone weird things going on with the trans. Thats why i thinking that suggestion made is prob related

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Dr. Righteous

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Man, you guys are all over the map with this.
#1, suspect a dirty throttle body because for one the tuning in the powertrain "brain" is extremely sensitive to air flow numbers. Normally the idle air valve correct this to maintain a good idle but if things gets gummed up it can't react fast enough and you get intermittent stalls. USUALLY the OBDII detects reduced air flow and throws a code. Because of the ventless PCV system on modern vehicles it is very common for the TB and intake tract to get gummy.

I've had this exact issue on older vehicles with the Hemi. The throttle body isn't hard to remove. 4 bolts hold it to the plastic intake manifold. Unplug connectors, and remove it. CAN clean of TB cleaner (not carb cleaner) and a tooth brush. Spray the cleaner on the gummy areas and scrub it with the tooth brush. Be sure to clean out the air idle bypass passage also.

Why can't you use carb cleaner? It is too aggressive. A Throttle Body has a special coating to prevent corrosion.
 
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R/T_Fire

R/T_Fire

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Man, you guys are all over the map with this.
#1, suspect a dirty throttle body because for one the tuning in the powertrain "brain" is extremely sensitive to air flow numbers. Normally the idle air valve correct this to maintain a good idle but if things gets gummed up it can't react fast enough and you get intermittent stalls. USUALLY the OBDII detects reduced air flow and throws a code. Because of the ventless PCV system on modern vehicles it is very common for the TB and intake tract to get gummy.

I've had this exact issue on older vehicles with the Hemi. The throttle body isn't hard to remove. 4 bolts hold it to the plastic intake manifold. Unplug connectors, and remove it. CAN clean of TB cleaner (not carb cleaner) and a tooth brush. Spray the cleaner on the gummy areas and scrub it with the tooth brush. Be sure to clean out the air idle bypass passage also.

Why can't you use carb cleaner? It is too aggressive. A Throttle Body has a special coating to prevent corrosion.


I'll prob still do this and inspect it, just no time at the moment. Also, I'm not vented back into the motor with the PCV, I'm vented to atmosphere with a breather.
 
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