Engine ticking

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goose2232

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Does anyone have the issue of ticking (sounds like valves maybe) upon startup? Usually lasts for a few minutes... Doesn't seem normal to me, unless someone tells me otherwise

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Brandon-w

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It's normal. There are 100s of threads on here about it. Solution comes to redline oil or a high moly addative. Apparently the problem is no check valve in the oil filter so it drains back.
 

Burla

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It's called hemi tick for your research, if it is lifters you can try and address it with lubrication, if it is exhaust bolts you need to replace them. Both can happen at start up and it is 50/50 to which one it is. If you want, upload a warm idle tick from youtube so we can hear how the engine is doing.

It's not normal, but it is a known issue facing hemi's. probably the largest issue we deal with.

Moly basics, this is what oil formulations have to deal with dry starts, and redline has a lot of it.
 

jws123

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There is 2 things that will cause noise/ticking the lifters will make noise and sound like a sewing machine for a couple secs on startup and that is normal for hemis. Also broken exhaust manifold bolts will make noise/ticking and most of the time go away when engine warms up.

Edit looks like someone posted while i was typing:D Like said above a vid would help.
 
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goose2232

goose2232

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Burla, thanks for the info. I read up a bit and am wondering why redline versus Royal purple for oil?

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Burla

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Burla, thanks for the info. I read up a bit and am wondering why redline versus Royal purple for oil?

If you choose RP go for it many guys like it.

Speaking from a perspective of dealing with hemi tick, Redline has pao/ester base with the most aw/ep additives.

When we started the syn thread Royal Purple took out the moly, something they used to use in high amounts like 180ppm when oil guys loved that, then many years later they put moly back, but at average levels 60-80ppm. RP also uses dyes and group 3 base oils, with "some" esters maybe = synerlac. So research uoa's and see the difference, the largest are moly and zinc and the base oils dont show on you but redline is openly committed to pao/ester base oils. So what gives you the best chance at keeping hemi tick away? less or more additives made to deal with those conditions? What makes sense more or less of group 4/5 saturated base oils?

The argument "for" Royal Purple would be likely better gas mileage, formula more friendly for catalytic convertors, and maybe their moly and less group 4/5 will still get the job done. I do believe RP should be in the mix for hemi tick, my problem would be how do you know moly level? The best answer would be RP street line, that has remained consistently high like that 170ppm range. If you had hemi tick and RP killed the tick, it looks like a better choice then redline? sure why not. But, Redline is the hemi tick nuke, maybe many of us are lazy on testing new things, it is a real PITA to change oils and still have tick tick tick, when you can just nuke it. Redline is built like a brick**** house, pretty decent choice for a hemi that can benefit from all of that. It certainly isn't the best choice for modern engines, but maybe a good choice for a hemi.

Mind you this is for their RP engine oil only, there is a laundry list against them on gear and tranny oils.
 

Bigskyroadglide

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I ran RP from 82k to 100k on my 11. Good oil but engine was not as smooth as Redline.

Redline from 100k to 135k. Engine has been super smooth and QUIET since about 101k.

I personally wouldn't go back to RP oil.

RP and BelRay both owned and manufacturered by Calumet.

I have a Calumet refinery in the town I live in in Montana.
So RP is easily attained. Almost from the tap so to speak.

I run Redline and order it delivered.

My opinion
 

ChevySlayer69

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Its possible just your oil filter needs to be replaced. However, since you say it takes a few minutes to go away my guess is broken manifold bolt. Have that looked at!
 
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goose2232

goose2232

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If it's a manifold bolt, does anyone have any idea of how much I should expect to have someone fix it? Dealer is telling me between $500-$1000 depending on how many bolts are broken?

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pacofortacos

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I find the filter affects my 2016 more than the oil in it. Oem filter and it will tick on start after 1000 miles. Doesn't occur on the long Royal Purple filter or so far the short NAPA Platinum filter.

Hard to say on the bolts as it depends on how easily they come out - it can be easy or up to a complete disaster requiring head removal.
 

Burla

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If it's a manifold bolt, does anyone have any idea of how much I should expect to have someone fix it? Dealer is telling me between $500-$1000 depending on how many bolts are broken?

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Whatever it is you will want to use dealer, sometimes shops drill through block and break ****. Dealers might as well, but at least you know you can go after them.

When it done you might want to change oil fairly soon after and check it for coolant, maybe check coolant for oil as well.
 

Fitz-0518

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I find the filter affects my 2016 more than the oil in it. Oem filter and it will tick on start after 1000 miles. Doesn't occur on the long Royal Purple filter or so far the short NAPA Platinum filter.

Hard to say on the bolts as it depends on how easily they come out - it can be easy or up to a complete disaster requiring head removal.
Found the same filter issue on 6.4.
 

Midnight Storm

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I had the broken bolts replaced on one side a couple months ago. 30,000 miles on the truck.
Now I have a new tick that sounds different than the broken bolts did. This one lasts longer and is less aggressive.
I am at 4000 miles from my last oil change with Mobil 1 synthetic 5/20.

I will go to redline on the next change with RP filter. I will likely stick with 5/20 unless the dealership okays 5/30.
 
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goose2232

goose2232

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I am going to get a back window decal that says Tick Tick... All Hemi owners will get a kick out of it while driving around town! Lol

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Gero

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The tick is music to my ears. All kidding aside, the 5w30 oil certainly helped quiet it down. I've been using pup5w30 for roughly 20,000km and it done a good job. I will do a uoa after another 20,000km and see what it shows. I should have about 70,000km on the truck (40,000km on pup5w30).

Question, as oil wears and ages in the motor, does it become "thinner"? Ie. 5w30 will be more like 0w30 or does it magically become "lighter" like 5w20?
 
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