EVIC reads 14V on dead battery?

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PAPA34

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Truck wouldn't start so checked alt and battery at Autozone. Alt was fine but battery was bad, but for some reason the voltage screen on the EVIC said 14V. Any ideas?
 

BWL

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If it was running the alternator should put out 14.5V roughly. May be a bit lower with the extra draw of a bad battery. If it was dead then could still read close to 13V, but still be dead enough to not crank.
 

Jeepwalker

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Did they do a load test on the battery?
 

Fossil

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After my 2012 Ram 1500 sat all day Sunday in the garage, I went to start it this morning and nothing. No clicking, dead. Also, it wouldn't let me remove the key. Hooked up jumper cables to the wife's car and got some clicking but not enough juice to turn it over. Even the light under the hood was dim. Waited a bit still connected to the and it fired right up. Went straight to Les Schwab thinking my battery was bad. They tested it and the battery and alternator are good.
So, I have electrical issue. Any ideas before I take it to the dealer?
Thanks
 

frank1823

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Check the battery connection at the starter and have the starter checked itself. If the connection at the starter itself worked itself loose it could cause something like that. If the starter itself is bad, it would be drawing a lot of load causing similar symptoms. The other possibility might be a TIPM issue. If the starter and connection are good, try disconnecting the positive and negative terminals at the battery and touch the unconnected terminals to each other to drain any remaining power in the electrical system. Let it sit for 10 minutes or so, then reconnect everything and try to start again. Sometimes electrical abnormalities like dead battery will cause the TIPM to go berserk. That procedure will clear and reset the TIPM. Good luck.
 

Fediej

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I've Been Told There is something called "surface charge" that if you tested too soon after jump-starting the weak battery it may show as being good when in fact it needs to be replaced. I don't know exactly how long too soon is, but I do know that it varies based on battery capacity and can also depend on just how dead the battery really is.
 

Irishthreeper

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After my 2012 Ram 1500 sat all day Sunday in the garage, I went to start it this morning and nothing. No clicking, dead. Also, it wouldn't let me remove the key. Hooked up jumper cables to the wife's car and got some clicking but not enough juice to turn it over. Even the light under the hood was dim. Waited a bit still connected to the and it fired right up. Went straight to Les Schwab thinking my battery was bad. They tested it and the battery and alternator are good.
So, I have electrical issue. Any ideas before I take it to the dealer?
Thanks
Light weight jumper cables or a weak connection can cause a jump to not work or take a while to work. If you can’t get it to crank or even click on its own it’s usually a bad connection, either at the battery or wherever the positive and negative cables are connected. I’d bet it’s the ground.
 
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