Factory trailer brake

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Bigfoots03hd

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Can the factory trailer brake be installed in a truck that doesn't have one? I'm looking at a couple trucks but none of them have the factory trailer brake and would like to have it installed before purchase if possible. There new trucks that I'm looking at if that helps Thanks
 

crash68

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Yes you can add the factory brake controller. You can even install it yourself but you'll need to have the dealer enable it(via sales code) so it integrated with the truck's electronics and shows up on the dash, EVIC and/or radio display.
If you haven't bought the truck yet, see if the dealer will put it in as part of the purchase price.
 

averageguy

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Its a $280.00 option if you build your own fyi. Tell them if they wont install it even if you pay for it say you will just order a truck. They would much rather sell off the lot. Or order a truck and get every option you want.
 

dsent

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Personally I would not want factory controller after having one, and the cost on top of it.

I have had a factory brake controller in my 2012 ram 2500 and it was no were near as adjustable(usable) as a Tenosha P3 brake controller I have been using in new truck.

I had P2 in truck before the one factory installed and it was better than a factory installed controller.

You can find P3 here actually on sale.

http://www.etrailer.com/bc-2016_Ram_1500.htm?style=&furl=-sf-Proportional_Controller

I would suggest you read this post on the factory installed controller over in the towing & hauling section of this site here.

http://www.ramforum.com/f119/brake_controller-71708/

All most forgot install your self and no need to see dealer to charge you for turn on in computer.

Plus when you sell or trade the next time remove it and install in the next truck!
 
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Mega-Hemi

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I've heard the '13+ have much better built-ins than the '12s-prior. Had a P3 in my '06 and loved it. Integrated controller on my '13 seems to work just fine.

EDIT:

Just read the link dsent posted and it appears there seems to be more problems with the '13+'s than I knew about.
 
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Iron Outlaw

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I've got a 16 and my controller works great on 3 different trailers.
 

dsent

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Hello Guys,

Some one sent me a PM from this post so I thought I would just copy what I sent him here and hope that it helps ya'll with some Ideas on where to mount a controller.

I have never had to use the emergency lever on any controller in any truck I have owned or hauled with.

If you have a good controller set correctly you should not have those panic moments during evasive maneuvers (white Knuckle Moments)!!

I have been hauling trailers of 5-10k lbs up and down the east coast for my business for 26 years hauling milling machines,lathes,surface grinders and other stuff with no problems

Yes I never would mount it above brake or gas pedals to bang you shins on while driving or entering or exiting the truck.

The nice thing about the p3 it can be mounted almost anywhere,at any angle,unlike some others.

The most important thing when you mount it is that it must be pointed straight towards the front of the truck for the inertia sensor inside the controller to work.

I currently have a P3 mounted vertically in my center console, I just had to extend the wire length that you get in the kit at purchase by soldering wires and using heat shrink tubing over the solder joints.

I guess it depends if you are right or left handed.

I do not know what model truck you have, but if you have blank plate where a factory controller is suppose to be you could mount it there and cut the plastic plate to the shape of the P3 and make it look factory.

If your truck has center console mount it in front of the console shift lever.

It could be mounted in the glove box as long as you can reach it to make adjustments.

Another nice thin about the P3 is it has a memory to store your settings if you are always towing the same load.

I have 2 different trailers 8x18 dual axle with brakes and single axle 5x8 that I changed the axle and added a brake axle to for when I haul my 800# ATV. I have both of my trailers stored in my controller.

Back up plug in select trailer and down the road.

The other thing I will pass along, back about 5 years ago I rewired my trailers, and installed all LED lights. What I did was run new main wire from tongue of the trailer to a junction box under the trailer. I ran 2 wires to every new led 1 power wire, and 1 ground wire. I DO NOT depend on contact with metal on the trailer for the ground for each light. All connections are soldered and have heat shrink on them.

Every time I hook up to my trailer since my lights WORK!! I have not had any LED failures like I had with bulb type lights since there are no sockets holding bulbs in.

I hope this helps with some Ideas and I will answer any other question you have.
 
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