Front Axle U-Joint Replacement Help!

[Erikk]

I have a 2014 2500 4x4 99k.
Is there any differences in pulling passenger side axle shaft on a pre-2013 Ram 2500 to the current truck with the electric disconnect?
I need to change the passenger side u-joint and since there is now an axle disconnect system in the passenger side of the axle housing I wanted to see if the axle still just slides out before I take everything apart, or if I have to take apart the Axle Disconnect to get the shaft out or back in.
I can’t find anything on this through google searches, everything I found is pre 2013 for the Ram 25-3500 and it’s all talking about solid front axles w/out the CAD.
Thanks for any advice in advance!

 

[U&A]

When i look on “FallDataDIY” ([emoji6]) there is no mention of the axle disconnect when taking the axle out... hope someone else can help you. I would think you need to remove it first.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Erikk]

When i look on “FallDataDIY” ([emoji6]) there is no mention of the axle disconnect when taking the axle out... hope someone else can help you. I would think you need to remove it first.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Thanks for the reply! Yes it seems to be a bit of a mystery really. Owner of Torque King in Montana said the axle needed to be guided back in and maybe inner seal replaced but there doesn’t seem to be any official service write ups on it. ‍

 

[muddy12]

I’d imagine that it would be similar to changing u-joints on a 94-01, they had axle disconnects as well.

Only issue, you may have to pull the disconnect cover to get things lined up when putting the shaft back in.


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[Erikk]

I’d imagine that it would be similar to changing u-joints on a 94-01, they had axle disconnects as well.

Only issue, you may have to pull the disconnect cover to get things lined up when putting the shaft back in.


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I think that’s probably right but since the engineering has come so far I’m not sure it would be the same. Hopefully someone on here has done a newer system.

 

[muddy12]

I think that’s probably right but since the engineering has come so far I’m not sure it would be the same. Hopefully someone on here has done a newer system.

Only thing that has really changed from the 94-01 system, is how the locking collar is moved.
94-01 used engine vacuum. The new stuff uses an electric motor.


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[Erikk]

Only thing that has really changed from the 94-01 system, is how the locking collar is moved.
94-01 used engine vacuum. The new stuff uses an electric motor.


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Did the 94-01 systems need the collar system accessed to change the passenger side u-joint? Were those also AAM systems?
I never found a YouTube video on those either. Thanks

 

[muddy12]

Most of the time, the CAD cover would need to be pulled for reassembly. The outer part of the shaft would come out fine, but the locking collar would usually shift/come off of the shift fork, and require pulling the CAD cover/actuator to get things lined up for reassembly.

The early second gens were Dana axles. I don’t remember the exact year, but the later second gens had AAM axles.


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[Erikk]

Most of the time, the CAD cover would need to be pulled for reassembly. The outer part of the shaft would come out fine, but the locking collar would usually shift/come off of the shift fork, and require pulling the CAD cover/actuator to get things lined up for reassembly.

The early second gens were Dana axles. I don’t remember the exact year, but the later second gens had AAM axles.


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Would putting it in four wheel drive first put the collar on the inner shaft and keep it from falling out of line during the removal of the outer shaft?

 

[muddy12]

It might, I’m not sure. However, worst case, you have to pull the cover and line things back up.


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[U&A]

I’d imagine that it would be similar to changing u-joints on a 94-01, they had axle disconnects as well.

Only issue, you may have to pull the disconnect cover to get things lined up when putting the shaft back in.


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I bet this is it.

I bet it will slide back in with some guidance and turning but removing the disconnect is a good idea.




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

Ok,

Id say start off by removing the actuator on axle and look inside. Pretty sure there’s a sleeve. The sleeve seems to be moved by some kind of “Y” shaped arm the moves it in and out.

All you have to do is unplug the cord remove the four bolts and pull it off just make sure the gasket (or O-ring) does not tear.

When you remove it be prepared for some oil to drain out.

Copyright laws won’t let me post pictures but after looking on “FalldataDIY” ([emoji6])looks to me like it just slides right out. Just need to make sure the sleeve stays put.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

I spent like $49 and have 5 years of alldatadiy. Sometimes its not helpful and other times its is a BIG help.

Its worth it IMO.




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Erikk]

Thanks U&A! I’ll proceed accordingly!

 

[U&A]

Just to be clear..... im no mechanic and have not done this before. But i did stay at a holiday inn. [emoji2373]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[392DevilDog]

The fork holds the collar on. It will stay regardless of 4wd or 2wd engaged.

It will not matter how it goes back in.

The CAD starts to slide and as the wheels turn the axles line up for the collar to slide.

Hope this helps.

But as stated, you can remove the cover if you need the extra confidence.

 

[DodgeDude99]

The early second gens were Dana axles. I don’t remember the exact year, but the later second gens had AAM axles.


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All 2nd gens came with Dana’s, ‘03 was the switch over with the 3rd gens.

 

[Erikk]

The fork holds the collar on. It will stay regardless of 4wd or 2wd engaged.

It will not matter how it goes back in.

The CAD starts to slide and as the wheels turn the axles line up for the collar to slide.

Hope this helps.

But as stated, you can remove the cover if you need the extra confidence.

So removing the CAD cover is not necessary? Collar will be held in place by fork? Just pull axle, change out ujoint then slide it back in and button it up just like pre 2013 trucks?

 

[U&A]

The fork holds the collar on. It will stay regardless of 4wd or 2wd engaged.

It will not matter how it goes back in.

The CAD starts to slide and as the wheels turn the axles line up for the collar to slide.

Hope this helps.

But as stated, you can remove the cover if you need the extra confidence.

“CAD”

Chainsaw addiction Disorder. Its for real


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[392DevilDog]

So removing the CAD cover is not necessary? Collar will be held in place by fork? Just pull axle, change out ujoint then slide it back in and button it up just like pre 2013 trucks?

I can not imagine why it would be. It should be the same procedure. I have no experience with it, yet, will probably be doing it soon though as my 2015 is about to hit 130000 miles.

Hopefully someone can verify...but if I was to do it tomorrow, I would do it just like I did my 99 Dodge Ram 2500. I did that truck numerous times and never took the cover off until I put a posi lok on.

I will see if I can get some solid info...but like I said, I would do it that way.

If in doubt, take the cover off. It is always good to inspect that fork anyways.