Front differential lock

[eyemall]

I have a 2000 1500 4x4. I have issues with the 4x4 not wanting to engage or being slow to engage. I am assuming this is cause by a possible vacuum leak. I have seen that this can be a common issue. My question is has anyone ever tried the manual pull type differential lock kits out there on a 2000 ram? I know the old model jeep Cherokees had this type diff lock on it. Or at least I have driven one with it on it. Do they work? Are they more reliable than the OEM style?
https://www.jcwhitney.com/details/D...t/2000/Laramie/8_Cyl_5-dot-9L/ALY450400.html#

 

[eyemall]

I just thought about the Cherokee that was the high range and low range selector not the diff lock. But I would still like to know if anyone has used that on their ram.

 

[eyemall]

How about front lockout conversion kits anyone tried those?

 

[Yeret]

I have one of those, although mine was made by a company called 4x4 Posi Lok.

Mine's a little fickle to engage/disengage. I suspect possible alignment issues with either the shift fork or the collar. Not sure as I was not the one who installed the kit nor am I sure if this is supposed to be normal.

Whatever the reason, this system, once properly engaged, provides a rock-solid grip on the front axle and the 4x4 will not release under any circumstances unlike what the OEM vacuum-style system likes to do when it starts having component issues.

It's an effective system but being purely mechanical may or may not be a little "touchy." Would I recommend it? Yes, as long as you're patient and willing to learn the ins and outs of such a setup.

 

[dapepper9]

You can engage the front axle permanently for super cheap/free. I have a solid shaft myself

 

[Quyonmob]

I had the posi lock manual actuator on my 92 chev. Then my buddy showed me his fix... a 5/8 spark plug socket matched the extended length of the failed actuator and depressed the plunger fully with the cover on.

Different system, yes, but their are options for the 2piece system too.

 

[Gear Jammer]

I have a Posi Loc in my truck, this is the second Ram I've had one in, they work great. It's easiest to engage and disengage if you are just slightly rolling when you try to move the handle. Once the front axle is engaged you can leave it engaged and shift the transfer case in and out of 4x4 as needed, or you can put the transfer case in low range in 2wd which helps for backing trailers.

 

[Quyonmob]

I have a Posi Loc in my truck, this is the second Ram I've had one in, they work great. It's easiest to engage and disengage if you are just slightly rolling when you try to move the handle. Once the front axle is engaged you can leave it engaged and shift the transfer case in and out of 4x4 as needed, or you can put the transfer case in low range in 2wd which helps for backing trailers.

2lo was the best thing ever in my 92 chev. An anemic 305 tbi needed all the help it could get

 

[Moparfanatic21]

I have a Posi Loc in my truck, this is the second Ram I've had one in, they work great. It's easiest to engage and disengage if you are just slightly rolling when you try to move the handle. Once the front axle is engaged you can leave it engaged and shift the transfer case in and out of 4x4 as needed, or you can put the transfer case in low range in 2wd which helps for backing trailers.

I thought about them but heard they are hard to engage. I thought about getting the one piece shaft to eliminate the CAD altogether

 

[Gear Jammer]

If you just want to eliminate the CAD, Posi Loc and possibly some others make a piece that you can install in the CAD to lock the front axle in all the time. You can also pull the CAD housing, slide the lock collar over to engage the front axle, and put the CAD back on locking the front axle in full time, for free. I did it this way on a Jeep when the CAD failed to engage on it's own.

 

[Quyonmob]

I thought about them but heard they are hard to engage. I thought about getting the one piece shaft to eliminate the CAD altogether

Mine was stupid easy to engage.

If you want to eliminate it all together, get the perm-lok.

 

[dapepper9]

I thought about them but heard they are hard to engage. I thought about getting the one piece shaft to eliminate the CAD altogether

Many have reported that. It could the way they ran the cable, maybe they're not doing it right, etc. Hard to say. Depends how you intend to use it and similar factors. Myself, i have no use for 2Low and wanted less moving parts. My needs/wants/priorities arent necessarily the same as others

 

[Moparfanatic21]

Mine was stupid easy to engage.

If you want to eliminate it all together, get the perm-lok.

Is that the one made by Posilock? Only reason I want to eliminate it was off roading came down on a rock and damaged the cad

 

[Moparfanatic21]

Many have reported that. It could the way they ran the cable, maybe they're not doing it right, etc. Hard to say. Depends how you intend to use it and similar factors. Myself, i have no use for 2Low and wanted less moving parts. My needs/wants/priorities arent necessarily the same as others

No hard feeling hopefully, sorry for how I responded. I damaged mine on a rock Off-road. Plus getting the one piece axle they give you a seal the goes on the outside of the tube instead of the inside and they are chromoly

 

[dapepper9]

No hard feeling hopefully, sorry for how I responded. I damaged mine on a rock Off-road. Plus getting the one piece axle they give you a seal the goes on the outside of the tube instead of the inside and they are chromoly

On my 1pc the seal stays in the factory location inside the axle tube but it changes it to the same pn as the driverside seal. I love the 1pc shaft setup myself. People argue that mileage will be affected and that it increases wear but ive seen none of that in 40k miles. Rotational mass increase is like 5lbs of weight

 

[Moparfanatic21]

On my 1pc the seal stays in the factory location inside the axle tube but it changes it to the same pn as the driverside seal. I love the 1pc shaft setup myself. People argue that mileage will be affected and that it increases wear but ive seen none of that in 40k miles. Rotational mass increase is like 5lbs of weight

One of the manufactures for the Dana 60 show a seal yet goes on the outside (can buy then for both sides) just have to grind down the tube a bit. The later 2500s went to a live axle. So I figure if I lose any mpg it would be like 1 lol who did you get yours through?

 

[dapepper9]

One of the manufactures for the Dana 60 show a seal yet goes on the outside (can buy then for both sides) just have to grind down the tube a bit. The later 2500s went to a live axle. So I figure if I lose any mpg it would be like 1 lol who did you get yours through?

EMS Offroad. I DO have the d44 though and they're the only company offering it for that axle. With the 60 you have the luxury of more manufacturers. I believe Yukon is one that makes a kit for it as one example

 

[Moparfanatic21]

EMS Offroad. I DO have the d44 though and they're the only company offering it for that axle. With the 60 you have the luxury of more manufacturers. I believe Yukon is one that makes a kit for it as one example

Yukon I think was the manufacturer they offered the outside seals. Mine will be a DD, trail rig, and tow vehicle. It's got cancer though I have to address this summer

 

[Quyonmob]

Is that the one made by Posilock? Only reason I want to eliminate it was off roading came down on a rock and damaged the cad

It was the posi-lok cable, but was a GM 8.25IFS diff. Method of engagement differs which could account for a difference in ease of use

 

[Moparfanatic21]

It was the posi-lok cable, but was a GM 8.25IFS diff. Method of engagement differs which could account for a difference in ease of use

Good to know thanks!